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The New 3tandard 
Coat System. 

A Short=Measure Method of Drafting every kind of 
Coat for every Size and Shape. 


A Complete Treatise 
on the 

Art and Science of Coat Cutting. 


PUBLISHERS: 

JNO. J. MITCHELL CO., 


NEW YORK. 









TTsso 


LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two Ok’Dics Received 


JAN 15 I90t) 

Copyright Entry 

W. t. i o4. 

^ASS CL. XXc. NO, 

7i t 

COPY B. 


Entered according to Act of Congress in the Year 1906 by 

INO. J. MITCHELL CO. 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 


« € 
< < 
( C t 








THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


3 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Title, - I 

Preface, 7 

Introduction, ^ 

PART I. 

Undercoats in General Use. 

The Measures, - - - - - - - - - - 12 

Explanatory and other Notes, 17 

The Body Framework, - - - - - - - - - 18 

Three-Button Cutaway Frock— 

Body Part and Collar, - - - - • - - - 20 

Back-Shirt and The Skirt ....... 22 

Sleeve^ 24 

Two-Button Cutaway Frock— 

Body Part and Collar, -------- 26 

Four-Button Cutaway Frock — 

Body Part and Collar, ^o 

Three-Button Cutaway Frock with wide shoulder — 

Body Part and Collar, 34 

To Provide Shoulder Room for Building up, ------ 36 

Cutaway Frock for Stooping Form— 

Body Part and Collar^ - - - - - - - - 38 

Business Cutaway Frock for Extra Erect Form— 

Body Part and Collar, - - - - - - - - - 42 

Skirt, 44 

One-Button Cutaway Frock for Corpulent Man— 

Body Part and Collar, 45 

Skirt, ... - . . . , . 48 

Sleeve, 50 

Straight-Front Single-Breasted-Frock— 

Body Part and Collar, - - - - - - - - 52 

Skirt — Nattiral, --------- 54 

Skirt — Belled, ---------- 56 

Three-Button Double-Breasted Frock— 

Body Part and Collar, 38 

Skirt — Natural, . . . ----- 60 

Four-Button Double-Breasted Frock— 

Body Part and Collar, 62 

Skirl — Belled, 64 





4 THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


Double-Breasted Frock for Corpulent Man— page. 

Body Part and Collar, ........ 66 

SJclrt — Natural, ......... 68 

Skirt — Belled, 70 

Peaked-Lapel Dress Coat— 

Body Part and Collar, - - > - - - - - • 72 

To Draft the Lapel Direct, ....... 74 

To Draft the Lapel o 7 i-growi 7 ig and to Straighten Same, ... 74 

Skirt,- .......... 76 

Shawl-Roll Evening Dress Coat, ^ . 78 

Evening Dress Coat for Corpulent Man— 

Body Part and Collar, -------- 80 

Skirt, .......... 82 

Three-Buttton Cutaway Frock for a Hunchback— 

Body Part and Collar, ...... • - 84 

Skirt, .......... 86 

Sleeve, ........ . . 88 

Difference of Shoulder Height— 

Low Shoulder, ......... go 

High Shoulder, - - - - - - - - - 92 

Frock Back for Striped or Plaid Goods, 94 

Whole Backs and Stubbed Backs for Frocks, 94 

To Straighten the Center of the Backpart for round-shouldered men, - - 96 

I'o Straighten the Center of the Backpart for extra-erect men, ... . 97 

Close-Fitting Straight-Front Sack, 98 

Shapely Cutaway Sack, - - - - - - - - - 102 

Cutaway Sack for Stooping Form, ....... 106 

Cutaway Sack for Extra-Erect Form, - - - - - - - 110 

To Straighten the Shoulder, - - - - - - - - 112 

Tuxedo or Dinner Jacket, - - . - - - • - - - 114 

Three-Button Cutaway Sack for Corpulent Man— 

The Draft, ...... . 

To Pocket the Belly, ■ - - - - - - - - 120 

One-Button Cutaway Sack for Extremely Corpulent Man— 

The Draft, ......... 122 

To Pocket the Belly, - - - - - - - - - 124 

Straight Box Sack, 126 

Three-Button Double-Breasted Sack, - - - - - - - 130 

Four-Button Double Breasted Sack ------- 134 

Double-Breasted Box Sack with Natural Back-Width, but Moderately Wide Shoulder, 138 

Sack for a Hunchback, 142 

Boy’s Sack (Sizes less than 30 Breast,) ...... J45 

Whole Backpart for Shapely Sack, - - - • - - - 150 

Sack with Raglan Sleeve, 1^2 

Proportionate Measures, - - - - - - - - - 157 







THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


0 


PART II. 

Overcoats in General Use, Shoulder Capes and Hoods. 

PAGE. 

The Measures, - - - - - - - - - - i6i 

Chesterfield or Fly-Front Oversack - - • - - - - 162 

Chesterfield for Corpulent Man- 

Body Part and Collar^ - - . - - - - - 166 

To Pocket the Belly^ . - - - - - - • 168 

Chesterfield for Extremely Corpulant Man — 

Body Part and Collar, - - - • ■ ■ - - 17® 

To Pocket the Belly, . - - • ■ - - • 172 

Covert Coat, - - - . - - - ■ • - i 74 

Straight-Box Fly-front Oversack, 178 

Double-Breasted Oversack (Extreme full Box), - - ■ - • 182 

Storm Coat. Double-Breasted, Three-Quarter Box, With Slightly Shaped Center 

Seam—Both the Peaked-Lapel and the Shawl Roll Styles, - - - 186 

Fly-Eront Peaked-Lapel Oversack (Half Box or with a Straight Center Seam), - 190 

Surtout and Newmarket 194 

Paletot, - - - - - - ■ * ■ ' • 198 

The Paddock, - - - - ’ ■ - • - ■ ' 202 

Square-Cut Inverness, 206 

Curved Shoulder Inverness, 210 

Inverness with Sleeves, - • - ' " ’ ‘ ‘ ° ^^4 

The Raglan, 220 

The Shoulder Cape, 224 

A Simple and Handsome Hood, 232 

part III. 

Clerical, ITilitary and Livery Overcoats and Undercoats, and the Spanish or 

nilitary Cape. 

The Cassock— 

Body Part and Collar, - - - * ■ ' ’ * ^ 3 ^ 

Baxk Skirt and Skirt, - - - - ■ ' ' ' ^38 

Officer’s Service Blouse, U. S. A., - - - - • • ■ ‘ ^ 4 ° 

Officer’s Dress Blouse, U. S. A., - - - - • • ' ‘ -44 

Officer’s Double-Breasted Frock, U. S. A., .... 248 

Officer’s Overcoat and Hood, U. S. A., - - - - - ■ 252 

Military Cape, 258 

Knights Templar Coat, 262 

Coachman’s Dress Coat, ------ -b6 

Footman’s Coatee, - - • . » . - - 270 

Livery Shad-Belly Evening Dress Coat, - - - - - 274 

Coachman’s Great Coat, - - ■ . . - . 278 








6 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM, 


PART IV. 

The Scale Method. 

Key to “ Standard ” Scale, - . . . 

Frocks (shoulder slope by Scale U2), 

Frocks (shoulder slope by Scale K), 

Sacks 


PAGE. 

287 

288 
290 
292 








THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


O 


7 


PREFACE. 


'^HE “Standard” coat system, which was introduced nearly thirty years ago, and at once 
* became popular with the progressive custom cutters of the country, has passed through 
six editions, each a decided improvement on the preceding one, and is now probably in more 
general high-class use in this country than all other short-measure coat systems combined. It 
is, besides, much used in Germany, the sixth edition having been translated into German at the 
urgent request of a large number of the trade in that country. 

But superior as that system is to any other short-measure system published, it falls so 
far short of our ideal that, when the sixth edition of it was nearly exhausted, we concluded 
to issue a new system that should be more in harmony with the knowledge we have acquired 
by a long experience, instead of grafting improvements on the old one. 

The result is this book. 

We are thorouglily convinced that the New Standard coat system makes a longer 
forward step in systerriatic coat cutting by short measures than has ever before been made 
in a period of fifty years, and we believe that out of every one hundred cutters who fairly 
test it, ninety-nine will fully agree with us. 

It is, therefore, with a great deal of pride that we now submit this work to the judg¬ 
ment of the trade, for we believe it will prove revolutionizing ; but we do so also with a 
feeling of deep gratitude for the confidence the trade has always substantially expressed in 
both our ability and intention always to do our best in its interest, and with the hope that this, 
the greatest effort we have yet made in the short-measure school of cutting, will prove as 
helpful to those who learn it and endure as long in high repute as the system it succeeds, 

Respectfully, 

THE JNO. J. MITCHELL CO. 








THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


9 


INTRODUCTION. 


“ New Standard ” coat system is exactly what its name implies. 

* It is thoroughly and radically new. 

It is new not only in its structural lines, which are the most helpful ever Introduced, but 
also in the principles which govern the location of the shoulder, in the method of ascertaining 
and distributing the waist suppression, and in its treatment of extremely large and extremely 
small sizes, in all of which It differs fundimentally from any other system known to the trade. 









THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


n 


PART I. 


COATS IN GENERAL USE. 











12 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


THE riEASURES. 


'T^HE measures required are as follows, and should be taken in the order given. 

* Front-of-scye or blade. 

First-over or strap length. 

Second-over or shoulder height. 

Depth-of-scye. 

Natural waist. 

Fashionable waist (not needed for sacks). 

Full length. 

Sleeve length. 

Breast. 

Waist. 

Seat (needed for sacks only). 

For Style, or for short and stout or for tall and slim men, the width of the back desired 
should also be taken. 

All these measures, except for overcoats, are to be taken over the vest. 


TO TAKE THE MEASURE.S. 

Mark at the height to which it is desired the top of the back should reach. To locate this 
point, decide on where the top of the collar should be, and make the mark one inch lower. 

Mark at the natural waist on the back center. 

Adjust the measuring square to the right shoulder as shown on Figure i, press the short 
arms of the square moderately close to the arm, bind them together at the top with a rubber 
band, and be careful to have the long arm horizontal. 

Bend the flexible band (celluloid or brass) straight across the back as illustrated on Figure 
2, mark at the top of the band on the back center for the depth-of-scye, and call off the front-of 
scye measure as indicated by the band. 

This is the first measure. 

Hold the square firmly with the right hand and with the left carry the inch tape attached 
to the square in front of the arm to the mark made for the top of the back, as illustrated on 
Figure 3, and call off the first-over measure. 

This is the second ^neasure. 














THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


13 




FIGURE 2. 


FIGURE 3. 


























































































14 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


Carry the inch tape over the shoulder, in as straight a line as possible, down to the depth- 
of-scye mark as illustrated on Figure 4, and call off the second-over measure. 

T/i/s is the third measure. 

Remove the square. 

Measure from the top-of-back point to the mark made for the scye level (as explained 
for Figure i). 

This is the fotirth measure^ the depth-of-scye. 

Holding the inch tape to the neck point as before, measure to the natural waist, to the 
fashionable waist and to the full length required. 

These are the fifth, sixth and seventh measures. 

The sleeve length may be taken in two ways : Either the outside length or the inside 
length. 

The outside length is taken as follows; See that your client’s arm is raised level with his 
shoulder and is bent at the elbow to form a right angle. Measure from the center of the back 
to the knuckle of the little finger and call off two inches less. This measure is unreliable when 
extremely wide shoulders are fashionable. 

The inside length is taken with the square, placed close under the arm, to the exact 
point desired. 

The sleeve le7igth is the eighth 7neas7ire. 

The 7ii7ith, te7ith a7id eleve7ith measures are respectively, the breast, waist and seat 
circumferences. 

The breast measure is taken as follows: Stand behind your client, well to his right- 
Pass the end of the inch tape under his right arm to beyond the center of his breast, reach 
under his left arm with your left hand and, taking the tape from your right hand, bring it 
with your left hand under his left arm nearly, or quite, to the center of his back, as illustrated 
on Figure 5. Step to the left of your client, reversing the position of your left hand while 
doing so, but not slakening the tape, and with the right hand bring the tape to meet the 
end held by the left hand, as illustrated on Figure 6. This completes the breast measure. 

The waist and seat measures are taken in the same way as the breast measure. 

The 7neasures for an overcoat are usually take7i m the sa77te way, but over the coat; but 
may be taken on the vest, as explained above, to be used with additions as explained here¬ 
after. (See Overcoats.) 


ARRANGEMENT OF THE MEASURES. 


—depth-of-scye. 

—front-of-scye, 


— breast. 

—natural waist. 

—first-over. 

—sleeve. 

—waist. 

—length, 

—second-over. 


—seat. 


It is always wise to write the 77teasures 07 i the backpart of the draft, as show7i on Diagra7n 2. 
THE FIRST, SECOND AND THIRD MEASURES SHOULD BE TAKEN FAIRLY CLOSE, BUT THE TAPE 
SHOULD NOT BE DRAWN TIGHT. 












THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


15 



FIGURE 4. 



FIGURE 5 - 


FIGURE 6. 












































































































































4 








THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


17 


EXPLANATORY AND OTHER NOTES. 


VJ^HENEVER in this book the division of the breast or of the waist size to be used in 
” * drafting is expressed in figures, the division has reference to the half-breast or the half¬ 
waist. For example, “ ^ breast ” means one-half of one-half breast, for the reason that as we 
draft but one-half of a coat we use only one-half of the breast measure in drafting. For a 36- 
inch breast, ^ breast is, therefore, 9 inches, one-half of 18 inches, the half-breast size, and ^ 
waist for a 30-inch waist is 5 inches, one-third of 15 inches, the half-waist size. 

The division of a full size is always printed in full. For example, “one-half full breast” 
calls for 18 inches for a 36-inch breast, ‘‘one-third natural waist” calls for 6 inches if the length 
of the waist is 18 inches. 

* -X- * 

The top of the backpart may be made wider or narrower than is explained for any coat 
draft in this book. This width, within the limit of an inch, has no effect on the fit, but is entirely 
a matter of taste or style. 

->£• % -X 

The forearm notch should be placed i inch higher than the bottom of the scye. 





18 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 



THE BODY FRAMEWORK. 


DIAGRAM I. 


measures used for this draft, which is for a well-formed man, were taken on the vest 
and are as follows : 


depth-of-scye, 

I 7 natural waist, 
i8f fashionable waist, 


11 front-of-scye, 
Ilf first-over, 

17 second-over, 


36 breast, 
32 waist. 


Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9 inches altogether for this draft; A to C is 
the natural waist; A to D is the fashionable waist; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, ii inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up and 
down from G as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is f inch less than the distance from A to G, 
155- inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, i2f inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 18 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is yij- breast and L to M is if inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is if inch. 

Square up from P. This establishes Q and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is f inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from S to C to establish V. 

C to W is yig- breast and W to X is i inch, but may be a little more or less according to 
taste or style, 

F to Y is f waist, 8 inches for this draft. Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half-way 
between Z and B. 

From X to 2 is the same as from Y to i, 2f inches for this draft. 2 to 3 is f waist and 3 
to 4 equals i to B, f inch for this draft. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast and 8 to 9 is 2f inches. 

C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to ii is one-half full waist and ii to 12 is 2 inches. 

Square down from ii. This establishes 14. 14 to 15 is waist. 

J to 18 is f breast. Draw a straight line for the height and run of gorge from S through 
18. This line may be drawn through a pomt a little higher or lower than 18, according to taste 
or style; but 18 is always f breast below J. 

J to 19 is f breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to estab¬ 
lish 21. 













THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


19 



DIAGRAM I. 

































































20 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


THREE=BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK. 

BODY PART AND COLLAR. 

DIAGRAM 2. 

'^HIS draft represents Diagram i finished. But to assist the student in learning the system, 
^ the explanations are repeated. 

Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9 inches altogether for this draft; A to C is 
the natural waist; A to D is the fashionable waist ; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of scye, ii inches for this draft, and F to G is G inch. Square up and 
down from G as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is 5- inch less than the distance from A to G, 
15^ inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, I2f inches altogether for this draft. Sweep for¬ 
ward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K in I inch more than the second-over, 18 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is yig- breast and L to M is i ^ inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is inch. 

Square up from P. This establishes O, R and S, 

Draw a straight line from N to H, This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this draft, but 
may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from S to C to establish V. 

C to W is -jig breast and W to X is i inch, but may be a little more or less according to 
taste or style. 

Shape the backpart as represented. 

T/ie side seam may be either less or more curved than to V accordiiig to taste or style. 

F to Y is ^ waist, 8 inches for this draft. Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half-way 
between Z and B. 

From X to 2 is the same as from Y to i, 2\ inches for this draft. 2 to 3 is ^ waist and 3 to 
4 equals i to B, f inch for this draft. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from Q toward F. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 

Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing | inch at the breast line, making the length to 
6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower waist line and 
giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2^ inches and 9 to 10 is i inch. 

C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full waist, 11 to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is i inch. 

Draw a straight line from 10 to 13. 

Square down from 11. This establishes 14. 14 to 15 is waist. Draw a straight line 

for the bottom of the forepart from 7 through 15. This establishes 16. Square down from 
12 to establish 17. 

J to 18 is I breast. Draw a straight line for the height and run of gorge from S through 18. 










THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


21 



This liiic may be drawn throngh a point a little higher or lower than i8 according to taste or 
style ; but 18 is always ^ breast below J. 

J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 
Draw a straight line from 16 to 21 and shape the V as represented, making in inch wide. 
Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

















































































22 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


U2 to 22 is f inch or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

21 to 23 is I j inch, but may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

Shape the front edge as represented, sloping it back to 17 from a point from to if inch 
above 13, or to a little in front or back of 17 according to taste or style. 

24 is half-way between 5 and the breast line. Draw a straight line from 24 tcrS for the top 
of the breast pocket. 

Draw the button line from 12 through a point f inch back of 9. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft is 5 inches below 23, 
toward a point f inch in front of N2. 

The Collar.— Draw the crease line (for a roll that does'not extend below the breast line) 
through a point f inch back of N2. The leaf is the same width as from 21 to 23 at the end and 
is inch wide at the back center, or a little more or less according to taste or style, and the 
height of the stand is if inch. 

THE BACK SKIRT. 

Diagram 3.—2 to F is if inch. 

Draw a straight line down from F, guiding by A. A to C is the length of the coat; 36 
inches for this draft. 

Square forward from C. 

C to E is f inch more than F to D. 

D to 39 and E to G are each i inch. 

Shape as represented, rounding slightly between D and E and 39 and G. 

THE SKIRT. 

Diagram 4.—Square lines H I and H K. 

H to 7 is the width of the bottom of the sidebody. 

Place the lower end of the underarm seam of the forepart at 7, with the fashionable waist 
line of the forepart exactly covering the straight line squared forward from H, and mark along 
the bottom of the forepart to the front edge as to J. 

H to K is one-half natural waist, 8f inches for this draft. 

Square back from K. 

K to L is 3f inches always. 

L to M is the same as Y to i of the backpart, 2f inches for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from H down through M. 

H to N is 18 inches always. 

M to O is f inch if the skirt is to be French pressed (sharply creased on the plait), but 
only ^ inch if it is to be flat pressed. For this draft it is f inch. 

Shape the fold edge of the plait as represented from H through O toward N. 

H to P is inch more than the length of the back skirt from D to E. 

H to Q is I inch and P to R is the same. Shape the edge of the plait as represented from 
Q to R. 

Square down from J by the line squared forward from H. 

J to S equals H to P. 

Draw a straight guide-line from P to S. 

J to T is I inch. 

Shape the top as represented, rounding up slightly from H to 7, following the bottom of 
the forepart to about half-way between 7 and J, and then rounding down to T. 





—®C 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


23 



S(^ 


DIAGRAM 4. 


DIAGRAM 3. 


























































24 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


Place the waist seam of the forepart in a closing position with the waist seam of the skirt 
(J touching T) as represented by the short-dash line from T to U, and shape the front edge to 
range with the front edge of the forepart. 


THE SLEEVE. 

The sleeve is drafted by the size of the arm-hole, 12 to U of Diagram 2, as measured exactly 
oil the drafted line of the scye, no alloivance being made for seams. 

Diagram 5.—Square lines A J and A Z. 

A to B is the same as E to B of the backpart (Diagram 2), 4^ inches for this draft. 

B to C is I inch. 

Square forward from C. 

A to Z is one-half scye, 8^ inches for this draft, the scye of Diagram 2 measuring i 7 inches. 
Square down from Z. This establishes D. 

D to E is I inch always. 

Square back from E. 

D to F is one-third scye, i. e., the scye size by the scale of thirds on the ordinary tailor’s 
square. 

Draw a straight line from F to A to establish G. 

Square up from G. 

G to H is the same as G to A. 

Z to I is ^ inch less than one-eighth scye, i. e., the scye size by the scale of eighths on 
the square. 

Draw a straight line from I to D. 

Shape the top of the upperpart as represented from A through H and I to D. 

Apply the width of back to A and measure the outside length (31^ inches for this draft) to 
J, allowing nothing for making, square across from J as to K and go up G Il'ich to L ; or apply 
the inside length, if preferred (18 inches for this draft), from E to L, go down i^ inch from L 
as to K, and square across from K. 

L to M is 6^ inches, or a trifle more or less, according to taste or style, generally i inch 
more than one-half the band size of the shirt cuff. 

N is I inch less than half-way from E to L. 

Square across from N. 

Draw a straight line from B to M to establish O. 

N to P is I inch more or less according to style. 

O to Q is inch more or less according to style. 

Shape the upperpart as represented. 

A to R is IJ inch. 

Shape the underpart as represented. 

This is the regular half-and-half sleeve. 

Diagram 6.—When it is desired to make the upperpart wider than the underpart, that is to 
place the underarm seam further under the arm, make all the drafting points and lines the same 
as explained for Diagram 5 and then proceed as follows: 

E to S is i^ inch more or less according to style, and E to T is the same. 

K to U and K to V are each the same as E to S and E to T. 

Draw straight lines from S to U and from T to V. 

Square forward and back from L to establish W and X. 

Shape as represented by the solid lines. 








THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


25 



DIAGRAM 6. 


DIAGRAM 5. 





































































































26 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


TWO=BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK. 

BODY PART AND COLLAR. 

DIAGRAM 7. 

HE measures used for this draft, which is for a sloping-shouldered man, were taken on the 
vest and are as follows : 

9 depth-of-scye, 

I 7 j natural waist, 

19 fashionable waist. 

Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9^ inches altogether for this draft; A to C 
is the natural waist; A to D is the fashionable waist; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 11 inches for this draft, and F to G is i ^ inch. Square up and 
down from G as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is inch less than the distance from A to G, 
15^ inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 13 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 18 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is jIg- breast and L to M is G inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is inch. Square up from P. This 
establishes Q, R and S, 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from S to C to establish V, 

C to W is -jig breast and W to X is i inch, but may be a little more or less according to 
taste or style. 

Shape the backpart as represented. 

The side seam may be either less or more curved than to V, according to taste or style. 

F to Y is ^ waist, 8^ inches for this draft, Z is half-way between Y and B and i is 
half-way between Z and B. 

From X to 2 is the same as from Y to i, 2 yV inches for this draft. 2 to 3 is waist and 3 
to 4 equals i to B. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from Q toward F. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 

Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing \ inch at the breast line, making the length to 
6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower waist line and 
giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2^ inches and 9 to 10 is i inch. 

C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full waist, 11 to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is i inch. 

Draw a straight line from 10 to 13. 

Square down from ii. This establishes 14. 14 to 15 is waist. Draw a straight line 


11 front-of-scye, 

12 first-over, 

17 second-over, 


36 breast, 
33 waist. 









THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


27 




for the bottom of the forepart from 7 through 15. This establishes 16. Square down from 
12 to establish 17. 

J to 18 is i breast. 18 to 18B is i inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
gorge from S through 18B. This line may be drawn thro^igh a point a little higher or lower 
than 18B, according to taste or style ; but 18 is always \ breast below J. 

J to 19 is I breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 


































































•38 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


Draw a straight line from i6 to 21 and shape the V as represented, making it ^ inch wide. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is f inch or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

21 to 23 is Ii inch, but may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

Space evenly for four buttonholes between the one on the lapel and the waist seam, and 
shape the front edge as represented. 

24 is half-way between 5 and the breast line. Draw a straight line from 24 to 8 for the top 
of the breast pocket. 

Draw the button line from 12 through a point ^ inch back of 9. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll toward a point j inch in front of N 2. 

The Collar. —Draw the crease line (for a roll that extends to the breast line) through a 

point inch back of N2. The leaf is the same width as from 21 to 23 at the end and is inch 

wide at the back center, or a little more or less according to taste or style, and the height of the 
stand is i|- inch. 

The Back Skirt, Skirt and Sleeve are drafted as explained for Diagrams 3, 4 and 5. 










THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


29 


JT IS BETTER TO CUT A COLLAR I INCH TOO LONG THAN INCH TOO SHORT. 


C UT THE SIDEBODY LONG ENOUGH. IF IT IS TOO SHORT THE JOURNEYMAN WILL BE OBLIGED TO 

STRETCH IT TOO MUCH. 









30 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


FOUR=BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK. 

BODY PART AND COLLAR, 

DIAGRAM 8. 

measures used for this draft, which is for a square-shouldered man, were taken on the 

vest and are as follows : 

8 depth-of-scye, 

I 7 natural waist, 
i8| fashionable waist. 

Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 8.j inches altogether for this draft; A to C is 
the natural waist; A to D is the fashionable waist; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 11 inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up and 
down from G as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is ^ inch less than the distance from A to G, 
15 inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 12^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 18 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is ly inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is D inch. Square up from P. This estab¬ 
lishes O, R and S. 

Draw a staight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this draft, but 
may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from S to C to establish V. 

C to W is ylg breast and W to X is i inch, but may be a little more or less according to 
taste or style. 

Shape the backpart as represented. 

T/ie side seam may be either less or more C2irvcd than to l\ according to taste or style. 

F to Y is ^ waist, 8 inches for this draft. Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half-way 
between Z and B. 

From X to 2 is the same as from Y to i, inches for this draft. 2 to 3 is waist and 3 to 
4 equals i to B, f inch for this draft. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from 0 toward F. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 

Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing | inch at the breast line, making the length to 
6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower waist line and 
giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 21 inches and 9 to 10 is i inch. 

C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full waist, 11 to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is i inch. 

Draw a straight line from 10 to 13. 


II front-of-scye, 
ii^ first-over, 

17 second-over. 


36 breast, 
'\2 waist. ■ 













the new standard coat system. 



Square down from ii. This establishes 14. 1410 15 is waist. Draw a straight line 

for the bottom of the forepart from 7 through 15. This establishes 16. Square down from 12 
to establish 17. 

J to 18 is i breast. 18 to 18B is ^ inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
gorge from S through 18B. This line may be drawn through a poijit a little higher or lozoer 
than 18B, according to taste or style; but 18 is always ^ breast below J. 





























































































32 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Draw a straight line from 16 to 21 and shape the V as represented, making it ^ inch wide. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark alonof the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is f inch or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoolder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

21 to 23 is i:r inch, but may be a little more or less according to tast or style. 

Shape the front edge as represented, sloping it back to 17 from 13 or a little above that 
point, or to a little in front or back of 17, according to taste or style. 

24 is half way between 5 and the breast line. Draw a straight line from 24 to 8 for the top 
of the breast pocket. 

Draw the button line from 12 through a point I inch back of 9. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft is 4 inches below 23, 
toward a point inch in front of N 2. 

The Collar. —Draw the crease line (for a roll that does not extend below the breast line) 
through a point 5- inch back of N2. The leaf is the same width as from 21 to 23 at the end and 
is 1^ inch wide at the back center, or a little more or less according to taste or style, and the 
height of the stand is inch. 

The Back Skirt, Skirt and Sleeve are drafted as explained for Diagrams 3, 4 and 5. 








THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


38 


SCYE SHOULD BE STRETCHED MORE OR LESS IN FRONT NEAR THE TOP OF THE SHOULDER. 


T he gorge should always be stretched i INCH OR MORE AT THE SIDE OF KECK, EXCEPT 

FOR THOSE WHOSE HEADS INCLINE ABNORMALLY FORWARD. 









34 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


THREE=BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK. 


BODY PART AND COLLAR. 

DIAGRAM 9. 

^^HIS draft shows how to increase the width of the shoulder, whether as a fashion effect or 
because the shoulders of the man measured are disproportionately broad. It also illus¬ 
trates the extreme down-slanted gorge. 


8 depth-of-scye, 

16 natural waist, 

17! fashionable waist, 


THE MEASURES. 

10^ front-of-scye, 
11 first-over, 

16 second-over, 

7 1 width-of-back. 


34. breast, 
30 waist. 


If the man measured has shoulders that are disproportionately broad, his back should be 
measured to the width of shoulder best suited to it according to the prevailing fashion ; but if the 
shoulder width is to be increased simply for style effect it is not necessary to take the width-of-back 


measure. 


Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 8^ inches altogether for this draft; A to C is 
the natural waist ; A to D is the fashionable waist; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 1O5 inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up 
and down from G as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is 3^ inch less than the distance from A to G, 
14^ inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 12 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 17 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is li inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is I5 inch. Square up from P. This 
establishes Q and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. 

If the shoulder is to be widened as a style effect, go forward from P T T I oi* i inch, 
according to fashion as to P2, but if the width is to be increased because your client has 
unusually broad shoulders (proportionately), make B to P2 the width-of-back measure plus ^ 
inch for seams, 8;^ inches altogether for this draft. 

P to P2 is f inch for this draft. 

Square up from P2. This establishes R. 

Square forward from O and T to establish Q2 and T2. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from N through T2, extending it ^ inch or a little 
more as to U. 

Draw a straight line from S to C to establish V. 

C to W is breast and W to X is i inch, but may be a litttle more or less according to 
taste or style. 







THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


35 



DIAGRAM 9. 


Finish the backpart as represented. 

The side scam may be either less or more curved than to V, according to taste or style. 
F to Y is ^ waist, 7^ inches for this draft. Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half¬ 
way between Z and B. 

From X to 2 is the same as’from Y to i, 2\ inches for this draft. 2 to 3 is I waist and 
3 to 4 equals i to B, f inch for this draft. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from O2 toward F. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 


















































































36 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing I inch at the breast line, making the length 
to 6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower waist line 
and giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2^ inches and 9 to 10 is i inch. 

C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full waist, ii to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is 1 inch. 

Draw a straight line from 10 to 13. 

Square down from ii. This establishes 14. 14 to 15 is waist. Draw a straight line 

for the bottom of the forepart from 7 through 15. This establishes 16. Square down from 
I 2 to establish i 7. 

J to 18 is ^ breast. Draw a straight line for the height and run of gorge from S2 
through 18. T/izs line may be drazvn throziyh a pomt a little higher or lower than 18, 
according to taste or style; but 18 is always ^ breast below J. 

J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Draw a straight line from 16 to 21 and shape the V as represented, making it ^ inch wide. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at N2. 
Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is inch or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F and the gorge 
from N2 to 21. 

21 to 23 is 15 inch, but may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

Shape the front edge as represented, sloping it back to 17 from a point from if to If inch 
above 13, or to a little in front or back of 1 7, according to taste or style. 

Draw the button line from 12 through a point f inch back of 9. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft is 5 inches below 23, 
toward a point f inch in front of N2. 

The Collar. —Draw the crease line (for a roll that does not extend below the breast line) 
through a point f inch back of N 2. The leaf is the same width as from 21 to 23 at the end 
and is if inch wide at the back center, or a little more or less according to taste or style, and 
the height of the stand is if inch. 

The Back Skirt, Skirt and Sleeve are drafted as explained for Diagrams 3, 4 and 5. 

TO PROVIDE SHOULDER ROO/T 

FOR BUILDING UB. 

Cut the shoulder of the forepart across from 18 towards 5 and proceed as follows : 

Diagram 10.—Pivot the shoulder piece at 18 and swing the scye-edge part of it up until 
it spreads at the scye from the lower part f inch for each eight ply of cotton wadding above 
six ply that is to be used. If, for example, thirty ply are to be used, deduct six ply, leaving 
twenty-four ply (three times eight ply), and separate the parts f inch as from 41 to 42. 

Reshape as shown by the heavy lines. 

This treatment advances the shoulder apparently but not in reality, as the wadding will 
draw it back to its drafted position as shown by the dotted lines. 







DIAGRAM lo. 




























38 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


CUTAWAY FROCK. 

{For Stoopmg Form.') 

BODY PART AND COLLAR. 

DIAGRAM II. 


measures are as follows: 

9 depth-of-scye, 

17^ natural waist, 

19^ fashionable waist, 


12 front-of-scye, 
12 first over, 

18 second-over. 


■ 1 38 breast, 

I , 

. ' 34 waist. 


Square each way from A. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9^ inches altogether for this draft. E is half¬ 
way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E and B. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 12 inches for this draft, and F to G is i^ inch. Square up and 
down from G as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is inch less than the distance from A to G, 
16^ inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 13 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep forward 
from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 19 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K pivoting at G. 

A to L is Pj breast and L to M is G inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is i^ inch. Square up from P. This 
establishes Q, R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

B to 4 i is I inch less than ^ breast, 8^ inches for this draft. 

A to 50 is the degree of stooping, the degree being the amount that the distance from 41 
to F is more than 3 inches, ^ inch for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from 50 down through B. 

50 to C is the natural waist, and from the same point to D is the fashionable waist. 
Square across from C and D. 

Draw a straight line from S to C to establish V. 

C to W is breast and W to X is i inch, but may be a little more or less according to 
taste or style. 

Shape the backpart as represented. 

The side seam may be either less or more cu 7 ^ved than to V, according to taste or style. 

F to Y is ^ waist, 8.2 inches for this draft. Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half¬ 
way between Z and B. 

From X to 2 is the same as from Y to i, 2f inches for this draft. 2 to 3 is ^ waist and 3 to 
4 equals 1 to B, ^ inch for this draft. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from O toward F. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 

















THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


39 



DIAGRAM II 


Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing i inch at the breast line, making the length to 
6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower waist line and 
giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2.^ inches and 9 to 10 is i inch. 

C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full waist, ii to 12 is 2 inches and i 2 to 13 is i inch. 
Draw a straight line from 10 to 13. 

Square down from 11. This establishes 14. 14 to 15 is waist. Draw a straight line 

for the bottom of the forepart from 7 through 15. 

Square down from G to establish 16, and square down from 12 to establish 17. 







































































40 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


J to i8 is ^ breast. Draw a straight line for the height and run of gorge from S through 
i8. This line may be draivn tJu'Ough a point a little higher or lower than i8, according to taste 
or style ; but i8 is always ^ breast below J. 

J to 19 Is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

21 to 49 is the degree of stooping, | inch for this draft, and 49 to 23 is inch or a little 
more or less according to taste or style. This reduction is 7 nade to prevent the front edge 
taking an mivard cui've between 23 and 10, or, in excessive stooping, to 7 nake the concave as 
little as possible. 

Draw a straight line from 16 to 21 and shape the V as represented, making it ^ Inch wide. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is I inch or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F and the 
gorge from N2 to 49. 

Shape the front edge as represented, sloping it back to 17 from a point from to if inch 
above 13, or to a little in front or back of i 7, according to taste or style. 

Draw the button line from 12 through a point f Inch back of 9. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft Is 5I inches below 23, 

toward a point f inch in front of N2. 

The Collar. — Draw the crease line (for a roll that does not extend below the breast line) 
toward a point f Inch back of N2. The leaf is the same width as from 21 to 23 at the end and 

is inch wide at the back center, or a little more or less according to taste or style, and the 

height of the stand is Inch. 

Caution. —Do not treat a draft as for a stooping forfn 7 nerely because the distance prom 
49 to F is 7 nore than 3 inches, as it sometii 7 ies is for mc 7 i who are 7 iot round shouldered. 
]Vhether your client stoops or 7 iot should be judged by the eye. If he does stoop note the 
fact in the order book with his 77 ieasures. 

If your client's form is. stoopmg, and the distance from 49 to F is 710 1 more than 3 niches, 
inake the distance f inch from A to 50. 












THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


41 


T he back should not be fulled to the shoulder of the forepart, except for round- 

shouldered FORMS. 


T he back should be but very little fulled to the sidebody over the blade, 

EXCEPT FOR round-shouldered FORMS. 







42 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


BUSINESS CUTAWAY FROCK. 

{For Extra-Erect For?n.^ 


DIAGRAM 12 . 


measures are as follows; 

111 front-of-scye, 
I2f first-over, 
i8f second-over, 


depth-of-scye, 
i8 natural waist, 

19! fashionable waist. 


39 breast, 
33 waist. 


Square each way from A. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 10 inches for this draft. E is half-way 
between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E and B. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, ii^- inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up and 
down from G as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is \ inch less than the distance from A to G, 
16 inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 13! inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 19I inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is G inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B:and G and O to P is inch. Square up from P. This estab¬ 
lishes Q, R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T, T to U is | inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

B to 41 is I inch less than \ breast, 8f inches for this draft. 

A to 50 is the degree of extra erechiess, the degree being the amount that the distance 
from 41 to F is less than 3 inches, ^ inch for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from 50 down through B. 

50 to C is the natural waist and from the same point to D is the fashionable waist. Square 
across from C and D. 

Draw a straight line from S to C to establish V. 

C to W is breast and W to X is i inch, but may be a little more or less according to 
taste or style. 

Shape the backpart as represented. 

The side seam may be either less or more carved than to V, according to taste or style. 

F to Y is i waist, 8^ inches for this draft. Z is half-way between Y and B and 1 is half-way 
between Z and B. 

From X to 2 is the same as from Y to i, 2f inches for this draft. 2 to 3 is ^ waist and 3 to 
4 equals 1 to B, | inch for this draft. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from Q toward F. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 

Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing ^ inch at the breast line, making the length to 







THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 43 



DIAGRAM 12 . 


6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower waist line and 
giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 21 inches and 9 to 10 is i inch. 

C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full waist, 11 to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is i inch. 
Square down from ii. This establishes 14. 14 to 15 is waist. Draw a straight line 

for the bottom of the forepart from 7 through 15. Square down from G, to establish 16. 























































































44 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


J to i8 is ^ breast. i8 to i8B is i inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
gorge from S through i8B. This line may be drawn through a point a little higher or lower 
than i8B, according to taste or style; but i8 is always ^ breast below J. 

J to 19 is breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Draw a straight line from 16 to 21 and shape the V as represented, making it | inch wide. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along- the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is f inch or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F and the gorge 
from N2 to 21. 

Draw a straight line from 40 through 21. 21 to 23 is 2f inches, but may be more or 

less according to taste or style, and the V is ^ inch wide. The slant of the top of the lapel is, oj 
course, a matter of taste or style. 

Shape the front edge as represented or according to taste or style. 

24 is half-way between 5 and the breast line. Draw a straight line from 24 to 8 for the top 
of the breast pocket. The flap is 5 inches long and if inch wide for this draft. 

Draw the button line from 12 through a point f inch back of 9. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft is 2 inches below 10, 
toward a point f inch in front of N2. 

The Collar. —Draw the crease line (for a roll that extends below the breast line but not to 
the waist) through N2. The leaf is inch wide at the end and f inch wider at the back center, 
or a little more or less according to taste or style, and the height of the stand is inch. 

SKIRT. 

Diagram 13.—Square lines H I and H K. 

H to 7 is the width of the bottom of the sidebody. 

Place the lower end of the underarm seam of the forepart at 7 with the fashionable waist 
line of the forepart exactly covering the straight line squared forward from H, and mark along 
the bottom of the forepart to the front edge as to J. 

H to K is one-half natural waist, 8| inches for this draft. 

Square back from K. 

K to L is 3f inches always. 

L to M is the same as Y to i of the backpart. 2\ inches for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from H down through M. 

H to N is 18 inches always. 

M to O is inch if the skirt is to be flat pressed, but is | inch more if it is to French 
pressed (sharply creased on the plait). For this draft it is 5 inch. 

Shape the fold edge of the plait as represented from H through O toward N. 

H to P is inch more than the length of the back skirt. 

H to Q is I inch, and P to R is the same. 

Shape the edge of the plait as represented from Q to R. 

Square down from J by the line squared forward from H. 

J to S equals H to P. 

Draw a straight guide line from P to S. 

J to T is I inch. 

Shape the top as represented, rounding up slightly from H to 7, following the bottom of 
the forepart to about half way between 7 and J and then rounding down to T. 








THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


45 



DIAGRAM 13. 



N 


Place the waist seam of the forepart in a closing position with the waist seam of the skirt 
(J touching T) as represented by the broken line from T up, and shape the front edge of the 

skirt to range with the front edge of the forepart. 

The Back Skirt and Sleeve are drafted as explained for Diagrams 3 and 5. 
































46 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


ONE=BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK. 

(^For Corpulent Manl) 

BODY PART AND COLLAR. 

DIAGRAM 14. 

HE measures are as follows ; 

lOj depth-of scye, 

18 natural waist, 

20 fashionable waist, 

36 length. 

Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, lof inches altogether for this draft ; A to C 
is the natural waist; A to D is the fashionable waist; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 13! inches forth is draft, and F to G is i4 inch. Square up 
from G as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is inch less than the distance from A to G, 
187 inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 15! inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 21^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K piv'oting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is inch. Square up from P. This establishes 
Q, R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from S to C to establish V. 

C to W is Pj breast and W to X is i inch, but may be a little more or less according to 
taste or style. 

Shape the backpart as represented. 

T/ie side seam may be either less or more cttrved than to accordmg to taste or style. 

F to Y is ^ waist, 12^ inches for this draft. 

When the distance from Y to B is I5 inch or less, the entire amount is to be taken out between 
X and 2. As the distance in this case is H inch, X to 2 is that amount. 2 to 3 is ^ waist. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from O to the breast line. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 

Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing | inch at the breast line, making the length 
to 6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower waist line 
and giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2\ inches and 9 to 10 is i inch. 

C to X and 2 to 11 is one-half full waist and 11 to 12 is 2 inches. 


13I front-of-scye, 
14I first-over, 

2o| second-over. 


48 breast, 
50 waist. 













47 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 



Square clown from 11. This establishes 14. 14 to 15 is waist. Draw a straight line 

for the bottom of the forepart from 7 to 15. 

J to 18 is i breast. Draw a straight line for the height and run of gorge from S through 
18. This line may be drawn throngh a point a little higher or lower than 18, according to taste 
or style ; but 18 is akvays'\ breast below J, 

J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 































































































48 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


U2 to 22 is f inch or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to the breast line 
and the gorge from N2 to 21. 

21 to 23 is 15- inch, but may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

Square up by the waist-seam line to a point i inch back of 21. This establishes 41 and 42. 
Square down from 41. 41 to 43 equals 41 to 42. Square forward from 43. 

Make the waist V Jg inch wide for each inch the waist exceeds proportion, proportion being 
4 inches less than the breast. As the breast used for this draft is 48 inches, 44 inches is the 
proportionate waist size ; but as the waist size is 50 inches we have an excess of 6 inches. The 
width of the V is, therefore, or f inch. The edges of the V are parallel with the straight 
lines 41 to 42 and the lines squared down front 41. 

For a one-button cutaway make 10 to Z inch. 

Shape the front edge as represented. 

Draw the button line from a point i inch back of i 7 through 9. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft is 6 inches below 23, 
toward a point ^ inch in front of N2. 

The Collar.— For a corpulent man the collar almost invariably requires less stand and 
Hiore length on the outside edge than for men who are not corpulent. It should, therefore, 
generally be curved on the crease as represented and hollowed on the seam edge, and the height 
of the stand should be about f inch. If, however, the client’s neck is not short, the collar should 
be drafted the same as for the preceding drafts. 

THE SKIRT. 

Diagram 15.—Square lines H I and H K. 

H to 7 is the width of the bottom of the sidebody. 

Place the lower end of the underarm seam of the forepart at 7, with the fashionable waist 
line of the forepart exactly covering the straight line squared forward from H. Mark along the 
bottom of the forepart to the back edge of the V as to 42, and extend the line straightforward 
from 42 as to Z. 

H to K is one-half natural waist, 9 inches for this draft. 

Square back from K. 

K to L is 3f inches always. 

L to M is 15 inch when the distance from Y to B on the backpart is inch or less, as it is 
in this case, the distance being inch. 

Draw a straight line from H down through M 

H to N is 18 inches always. 

M to O is ^ inch if the plaits are to be flat pressed, f inch if they are to be French pressed; 
for this draft it is inch. 

Shape the fold edge of the plait as represented from H through O toward N. 

H to P is I inch more than the length of the back skirt. 

H to Q is I inch and P to R is the same. Shape as represented from O to R. 

42 to J is the waist-seam length of the forepart forward of the V. 

Square down from J by the line squared forward from H, 

J to S equals H to P. 

Draw a straight line from P to S. 

J to T is ^ inch. 

Shape the top as represented. 











THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


49 



I^l3.c0 the w3.ist SG3.ni of tliG forcpnrt in 3 closing position with the W3ist sG3m of the skirt 
(J touching T) 3s represented by the broken line from T to U, 3nd sh3pe the front edge to 

r3nge with the front edge of the forep 3 rt. 

The back skirt is drafted as explained for Diagram 3. 



































50 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


THE SLEEVE. 

The sleeve is drafted by the size of the armhole, 22 to U of Diagram 13, as measured 
exactly on the drafted line of the scye, no allowaiice being made for seams. 

Diagram 16.—Square lines A J to A Z. 

A to B is the same as B to E of the backpart (Diagram 13), 5f inches for this draft. 

B to C is I inch. 

Square forward from C. 

A to Z is one-half scye, lo^ inches for this draft, the scye of Diagram 13 measuring 2o\ 
inches 

Square down from Z. This establishes D. 

D to E is inch always. 

Square back from E. 

D to F is one-third scye; that is the scye size by the scale of thirds on the square. 

Draw a straight line from F" to A to establish G. 

Square up from G. 

G to H is the same as G to A. 

Z to I is 5 inch less than one-eighth scye—the scye size by the scale of eighths on the 
square. 

Shape the top of the upperpart as represented from A through H and I to D. 

Apply the width of the back to A and measure the outside length to J (35^ inches for this 
draft), allowing nothing for making, square across from J as to K and go up G inch to L ; or 
apply the inside length (19^ inches for this draft), if preferred, from E to L, go down G inch 
from L as to K and square across from K. 

L to M is 6^‘inches or a little more or less according to taste or styXo., generally i inch 
more than one-half the band size of the shirt cuff. 

N is I inch less than half way from E to L. 

Square across from N. 

Draw a straight line from B to M to establish O. 

N to P is f inch more or less according to style. 

O to O is 15 inch more or less according to style. 

Finish the upperpart as represented. 

A to R is D inch. 

Finish the underpart as represented. 









O) a 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 



DIAGRAM i6. 































































52 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


STRAIQHT=FRONT SINQLE=BREASTED FROCK. 

BODY PART AND COLLAR. 

DIAGRAM 17. 

measures are as follows: 

9;^ depth-of-scye, 

I 7^ natural waist, 

I9:|- fashionable waist, 

Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, pf inches altogether for this draft; A to C is 
the natural waist; A to D is the fashionable waist; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 12 inches for this draft, and F to G is G inch. Square up and 
down from G as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is ^ inch less than the distance from A to G. 
16^ inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 14 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 19I inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is inch. Square up from P. This 
establishes Q, R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from S to C to establish V. 

C to W is breast and W to X is i inch, but may be a little more or less according to 

taste or style. 

Shape the backpart as represented. 

The side seam may be either less or more curved thaji to V, according to taste or style. 

F to Y is ^ waist, 9I inches for this draft. Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half¬ 

way between Z and B. 

From X to 2 is the same as from Y to i, if inch for this draft. 2 to 3 is f waist and 3 to 
4 equals i to B. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from O toward F. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 

Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing f inch at the breast line, making the length to 
6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower waist line and 
giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2f inches and 9 to 10 is i inch, 

C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full waist, ii to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is i inch. 

Square down from ii. This establishes 14 14 to 15 is y^^ waist. Draw a straight line 

from 7 through 15. This establishes 16. 


12 front-of-scye, 

13 first-over, 
i8f second-over. 


40 breast, 
39 waist, 

41 length. 








THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


53 



J to 18 is i breast. i8 to i8B is ^ inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
gorge from S through i8B. This line may be drawn through a point a little higher or lower 
than according to taste or style; but i8 always i breast bclozvj. 

] to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Draw a straight line from 16 to 21 and shape the V as represented, making it 1 inch wide. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 






















































































o4 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


U2 to 22 is f inch or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

Draw a straight line from H through 21. 21 to 23 is if inch, but may be a little more 

or less, according to taste or style. 

Shape the bottom as represented, rounding up f inch at 15. 

Shape the front edge as represented from 23 through 10 and 13. 

For stout men (men whose breast and waist sizes are about equal) it is advisable to 
take out, besides the regular V at 16, a small one as represented between 15 and 16, about 
inch wide. 

Draw the button line from 12 through a point f inch back of 9. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft is f inch above 10, 
toward a point f inch in front of N2. 

The Collar. —Draw the crease line (for a roll that does not extend below the breast 
line) through N2. The leaf is 1} inch wide at the end and inch wide at the back center, 
or a little more or less according to taste or style, and the height of the stand is if inch. 

THE SKIRT—NATURAL. 

Diagram 18.—Square lines H I and H K. 

H to 7 is the width of the bottom of the sidebody. 

Place the lower end of the underarm seam of the forepart at 7, with the fashionable 
waist line of the forepart exactly covering the straight line squared forward from H, and 
mark along the bottom of the forepart to the front edge as to J. 

H to K is one-half natural waist, 8| inches for this draft. 

Square back from K. 

K to L is 3f inches always. 

L to M is the same as Y to i of the back, if inch for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from H down through M. 

H to N is 18 inches always. 

]\I to O is f inch. 

Shape the fold edge of the plait as represented from H through O and N. 

H to P is y inch more than the length of the back skirt. 

H to Q is i inch and P to R is the same. 

Shape the edge of the plait as represented from O to R. 

Square down through J by the line H I. 

J to T is ]- inch plus the width of the belly V, f inch only if the V is omitted. 

T to S is I inch less than the length from H to P. 

P'inish as represented. 







THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


00 



DIAGRAM i8 



















56 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


THE SKIRT—WITH “BELL” OR BOTTOM FULNESS. 

Diagram 19.—Square each way from I. 

Place the forepart over the line squared back from I so that the front edge touches I 
and the fashionable waist line exactly covers the straight line squared back from that point. 
Make a point at 7. 

J to T is ^ inch. 

Draw a straight line from T through 7. 

7 to H is the width of the bottom of the sidebody. 

Square down from H. 

Make H to K one-half natural waist and proceed as explained for Diagram 18. 

For more '■'‘bell" or bottom ftilness, curve the top and obtain the width from T to H; 
then square down from H by 7 and finish in the usual way. 









THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 



DIAGRAM 19. 























58 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


THREE=BUTTON DOUBLE=BREASTED FROCK. 


BODY PART AND COLLAR. 

DIAGRAM 20. 


^HE measures for this draft are as follows: 


9 depth-of-scye, 

17 natural waist, 
i8f fashionable waist, 
40 length, 


I of front-of-scye, 
Ilf first-over, 
i7f second-over, 


36 breast, 
32 waist. 


Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9^ inches altogether for this draft; A to C 
is the natural waist; A to D is the fashionable waist; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, iif inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up 
and down from G as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is f inch less than the distance from A to G, 
i5f inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, I2f inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 18^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is if inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is if inch. Square up from P. This estab¬ 
lishes O, R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is f inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from S to C to establish V. 

C to W is yig breast and W to X is i inch, but may be a little more or less according to 
taste or style. 

Shape the backpart as represented. 

T/ie side seam may be either less or more cm'vcd than to f ”, according to taste or style. 

F to Y is f waist, 8 inches for this draft. Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half¬ 
way between Z and B. 

From X to 2 is the same as from Y to 1,2 inches for this daft. 2 to 3 is f waist 
and 3 to 4 equals i to B, f inch for this draft. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from Q toward F. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 

Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing f inch at the breast line, making the length 
to 6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower waist line 
and giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast and 8 to 9 is 2f inches. 

C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to ii is one-half full waist and ii to 12 is 2 inches. 

Square down from ii. This establishes 14. 14 to 15 is waist. Draw a straight line 

from 7 to 15. This establishes 16. Square forward from 15. 














THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


59 



»■ 


J to i8 is i breast. i8 to i8B is 4 Draw a straight line for the height and run 

of gorge from S through i8B. This line may be drawn through a point a little higher or 
lower than according to taste or style; but i8 is alivays i breast below J 

] to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Draw a straight line from 16 to 21, locating 41, and shape the V as represented, making 
it ^ inch wide. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast 
from I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from 

H as at N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 



















































































60 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


U2 to 22 is -I inch or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F and 
the gorge from N2 to 21. 

Shape the front center as represented from 21 through 9 and 12, establishing 17. 

17 to 26 is 2f inches, but may be a little more or less according to taste or fashion. 

Shape the bottom as represented from 7 through 15 to 26, rounding down slightly 
under 17. 

Sweep forward from 21, pivoting at 12. 

21 to 25 is 2 inches for this draft; but the distance should increase slightly for a propor¬ 
tionately smaller waist and decrease for a larger one. This zvill be illustrated and explained 
further on. 

Draw a straight line from 25 to 17 for the seam edge of the lapel. 

For this draft 25 to 23 is 2\ inches, 13 to 10 is 3^ inches and 17 to 26 is 2f inches. 
These widths may, of course, be slightly increased or decreased according to taste or fashion. 

Shape the lapel as represented. 

42 is ^ inch more than half-way from 25 to 17. 

Square forward from 42 to locate the top service buttonhole and the end of the roll. 

The buttonholes on the roll are the same distance apart as those below it. 

9 to the button-line is f inch less than from 13 to 10 and 17 to the button-line is f inch 
less than from 17 to 26. 

Draw a straight line for the crease from the end of the roll toward a point \ inch beyond N2. 

The Collar. —Draw the crease line through a point ^ inch back of N2 and draw a straight 
line from 41 through 21. The leaf is i:!- inch wide at the end and ^ inch wider at the back 
center for this draft, but may be a little wider or narrower according to the taste or fashion. 
The height of the stand is i|- inch. 

THE SKIRT—NATURAL. 

Diagram 21.—Square lines H I and H K. 

H to 7 is the width of the botton of the sidebody. 

Place the lower end of the underarm seam of the forepart at 7, with the fashionable waist 

line of the forepart exactly covering the straight line squared from H. Place the lapel in a 

closing position with the forepart. Mark along the bottom edge of both the forepart and the 
lapel as to J. 

H to K is one-half natural waist, inches for this draft. 

Square back from K. 

K to L is 3f inches always. 

L to M is the same as Y to i of the backpart; 2 inches for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from H down through M. 

H to N is 18 inches always. 

M to O is f inch. 

Shape the fold edge of the plait as represented from H through O and N. 

H to P is I inch more than the length of the back skirt. 

H to Q is I inch and P to R is the same. 

Shape the edge of the plait as represented from O to R. 

Square down through J by the line H 1. 

J to T is I inch. 

T to S is I inch less than the length from H to P. 

“ Belled ” skirts are explained further on. 

The -Back Skirt and Sleeve are drafted as explained for Diagrams 3 and 5. 








THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


61 



DIAGRAM 21 . 



































62 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


FOUR=BUTTON DOUBLE=BREASTED FROCK. 

BODY PART AND COLLAR. 

DIAGRAM 22 . 

HIS draft is for a tall, small-waisted, sloping-shouldered man of the sway-back type of form. 
The measures are as follows: 

depth-of-scye, 

18 natural waist, 

20 fashionable waist, 

42 length, 

Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is -I inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9I inches altogether for this draft; A to C is 
the natural waist; A to D is the fashionable waist; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 1inches for this draft, and B" to G is inch. Square up and 
down from G as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is f inch less than the distance from A to G, 16 
inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 13! inches altogether for this draft. Sweep forward 
from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K in I inch more than the second-over, 19 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is yig- breast and L to M is if inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is if inch. Square up from P. This establishes 
Q, R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is f inch for this draft, but 
may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from S to C to establish V. • 

C to W is yiy breast and W to X is i inch, but may be a little more or less according to 

taste or style. 

Shape the backpart as represented. 

T/ie side seam may be either less or more curved tha 7 i to accordi)ig to taste or style. 

P to Y is f waist, 8 inches for this draft. Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half-way 

between Z and B. 

From X to 2 is the same as from Y to i. 2 to 3 is f waist and 3 to 4 equals i to B. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from O toward F. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 

Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing f inch at the breast line, making the length to 
6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower waist line and 
giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7 

B to 8 is one-half full breast and 8 to 9 is 2f inches. 

C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full waist and 11 to 12 is 2 inches. 

Square down from 11. This establishes 14. 14 to 15 is yV waist. Draw a straight line 

from 7 to 15. This establishes 16. Square forward from 15. 


iii front-of-scye, 
I2f first-over. 

18 second-over. 


38 breast, 
32 waist. 
















THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


63 



J to i8 is i breast. i8 to i8B is 4 inch, as the gorge should be high for a short roll. Draw 
a straicrht line for the height and run of gorge from M through i8B. This line may be drawn 
tJiro7Lgh a point a little higher or lower than accordmg to taste or style; but i8 is always 

breast below J. 

J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Draw a straight line from 16 to 21 and shape the V as represented, making it ^ inch wide. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from I 
as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from II as at N2. 
Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

o 






























































































64 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


U2 to 22 is f inch or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

Shape the front center as represented from 21 through 9 and 12, establishing 17. 

17 to 26 is 2f inches, but may be a little more or less according to taste or fashion. 

Shape the bottom as represented from 7 through 15 to 26, rounding slightly under 17. 

Sweep forward from 21, pivoting at 12. 

21 to 25 is 2 inches when the waist is of proportionate size, 4 inches less than the breast, 
but the distance should increase as the waist falls below the proportionate, at the rate of | 
inch for each inch of disproportion. 21 to 25 is therefore 2\ inches for this draft, or inch 
more than usual, as the waist is 2 inches less than proportionate. 

Draw a straight line from 25 to 17 for the seam edge of the lapel. 

For this draft 25 to 23 is 2\ inches and 13 to lo is 3i inches (26 has already been 
established 2f inches from 17). These widths may, of course, be slightly increased or 
decreased according to taste or fashion. 

Shape the lapel as represented. 

9 to the button-line is f inch less than from 13 to 10, and 17 to the button-line is f 
inch less than 17 to 26. 

Draw a straight line for the crease from the end of the roll toward a point ^ inch 
beyond N2. 

The Collar is drafted the same as for Diagram 19. 

THE SKIRT—” BELLED.” 

Di.\gram 23.—Draw a straight line on the drafting paper as from I to 7. 

Place the lapel and the forepart on the drafting paper as represented, so that the fashionable 
waist line lies directly on the line drawn on the drafting paper. 

Shape the top as represented forward of 7, dropping it ^ inch as to T, and square 
down through that point for the front edge. 

Shape the top back of 7 on an upward curve as represented, increasing or diminishing 
the curve as more or less “bell” or bottom fulness is desired. 

7 to H is the width of the bottom of the sidebody. 

Square down from H by point 7. 

H to K is one-half natural waist, 9 inches for this draft. 

Square back from K. 

K to L is 3f inches always. 

L to M is the same as Y to i of the backpart, 2| inches for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from H down through M. 

H to N is 18 inches always. 

M to O is inch. 

Shape the fold edge of the plait as represented from H through O and N. 

H to Pis^ inch more than the length of the back skirt. 

H to Q is I inch and P to R is the same. 

Shape the edge of the plait as represented from O to R. 

T to S is ^ inch less than the length from H to P. 

The Back Skirt and Sleeve are drafted as explained for Diagrams 3 and 5. 











THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


65 




DIAGRAM 23. 
























66 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


DOUBLE=BREASTED FROCK. 

(^For Corpule>it ManA 


BODY PART AND COLLAR. 

DIAGRAM 24. 


'y'His draft shows how to decrease the width of the shoulder, whether as a fashion effect or 
because the shoulders of the man measured are disproportionately broad, 

THE MEASURES. 

I of depth-of-scye, 

18 natural waist, 

20 fashionable waist, 

42 length, 

85 zvidth-of-back. 


14^ front-of-scye, 
15I first-over, 

22 second-over. 


50 breast, 
55 waist. 


If the man measured has shoulders that are disproportionately narrow, his back should 
be meastired to the width of shoulder best suited to it accordmg to prevailing fashion; but if 
the shoulder width is to be decreased simply for style effect, it is not necessary to take the 
width-ofback measzire. 

Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is 4 inch more than the depth-of-scye, 1inches altogether for this draft; A to C is 
the natural waist; A to D is the fashionable waist; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 14^ inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up 
from G as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G, B to H is ^ inch less than the distance from A to G, 
19^ inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, \6\ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 23 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is -jig- breast and L to M is G inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is D inch. Square up from P. This establishes 
0 and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. 

If the shoulder is to be narrowed as a style effect, come back from P \, i, f or i inch 
according to fashion as to P2, but if the width is to be increased because your client has 
unusually narrow shoulders (proportionately), make B to P2 the width-of-back measure plus \ 
inch for seams, 9 inches altogether for this draft. 

Square up from P2, This establishes R. 

Square back from Q and T to establish O2 and T2. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from N through T2, extending it or a little more 
as to U. 

Draw a straight line from S to C to establish V. 

C to W is breast and W to X is i inch, but may be a little more or less according to 
taste or style. 
















THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


67 



DIAGRAM 24. 


Finish the backpart as represented. 

The side semn may be either less or 7 nore ciii'ved than to li, according to taste or style. 

F to Y is I waist, 13! inches for this draft. 

When the distance from Y to B is mch or less, the entire amount is to be taken out 
bctzveen X and 2. But X to 2 must never be less than i inch. X to 2 is, therefore, 1 inch 
for this draft, though the distance from Y to B is only f inch. 

2 to 3 is I waist. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from Q2 toward F. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 

Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing i inch at the breast line, making the length to 
6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower waistline and 

giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 































































THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 




B to 8 is one-half full breast and 8 to 9 is 2^ inches. 

C to X and 2 to 11 is one-half full waist. 

Squaredown from ii. This establishes 14. 14 to 15 is waist. Draw a straight line 

from 7 through 15. 

J to 18 is \ breast. 18 to 18B is \ inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
gorge from S through 18B. This line may be drawn through a point a little higher or lower 
than \%B, according to taste or style; but 18 is always ^ breast beloiv J. 

J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N 2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is inch or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to just beyond B' 
and the gorge from N2 to 21. 

Square up by the waist-seam line to a point i inch back of 21. This establishes 41 and 42. 
Square down from 41. 41 to 43 equals 41 to 42. Square forward from 43. 

Make the V ytg- inch wide for each inch the waist exceeds proportion, proportion being 4 
inches less than the breast. As the breast size for this draft is 50 inches, 46 inches is the 
proportionate waist size ; but as the waist size is 55 inches, we have an excess of 9 inches. I'he 
width of the V is, therefore, inch. The edges of the V are parallel with the straight li?ies 
41 to and the line squared down fro 7 n\\. 

Shape the front center as represented from 21 through 9 and 12, establishing 17, and shape 
the bottom as represented from 43 to i 7. 

Sweep forward from 21, pivoting at 12. 

21 to 25 is 2 inches when the waist is of proportionate size, 4 me lies less than the breast. 
When it is larger than proportionate reduce the distance ^ inch for each inch of excess. 

As the waist size is 9 inches larger than proportionate for this draft, the distance from 21 
to 25 is ^ inch less than 2 inches—^ inch only. 

Shape the seam edge of the lapel as represented from 25 through 12 and make 12 to 17B 
equal i 2 to 17. 

For this draft 25 to 23 is 2f inches, 13 to 10 is 4I inches and 17B to 26 is 2^ inches. These 
widths may, of course, be slightly increased or decreased according to taste or fashion. 

Finish the lapel as represented. 

Mark the button line and space for the buttonholes and buttons as explained for 
Diagram 20. 

The Collar. —For a corpulent man the collar almost invariably requires less stand and 
more length on the outside edge than for men who are not corpulent. It should, therefore, 
generally be curved on the crease as represented and hollowed on the seam edge, and the 
height of the stand should be about f inch. If, however, the client’s neck is not short, the 
collar should be drafted the same as for Diagram 20. 

THE SKIRT—NATURAL. 

Diagram 25.—Square lines H I and H K. 

H to 7 is the width of the bottom of the sidebody. 

Place the lower end of the underarm seam of the forepart at 7, with the fashionable waist 
line of the forepart exactly covering the straight line squared from H, as shown by the broken 
outlines. 

Mark along the bottom of the forepart from 7 to the edge of the V at 42. 




THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


69 



Pivot the forepart at 41 (end of V) and swing the shoulder part forward until 43 falls on 42 
as shown by the light solid outlines from 42 to i 7 and from 17 up, and place the lapel in a 
closing position with the forepart as represented. 

Mark along the bottom of the forepart and lapel from 42 to J. 

H to K is one half natural waist, 9 inches for this draft. 

Square back from K. 

K to L is 3f inches always. 

L to M is 4 inch when the distance from Y to B on the backpart is inch or less, as it is 

in this case, the distance being f inch only. 

Draw a straight line from H down through M. 

H to N is 18 inches always. 

M to O is f inch. 

Shape the fold edge of the plait as represented from H through O and N. 

H to P is i inch more than the length of the back skirt. 

H to O is I inch and P to R is the same. 




















70 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


Shape the edge of the plait as represented from 0 to R. 

Square down through J by the line H I. 

J to T equals the width of the V. 

T to S is ^ inch less than the length from H to P. 

THE SKIRT—BELLED. 

Diagram 26. — Draft the same as before forward of 42, but back of that point as follows : 
Curve the top as represented, a little more or less according to taste or fashion, from 42 
through 7. 



7 to H is the width of the bottom of the sidebody. 

Square down from H by point 7 and establish K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R and S as for the 
natural skirt. 

Finish as represented. 























THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


71 


W HEN IN DOUBT WHETHER YOUR CLIENT IS ROUND-SHOULDERED OR NOT, GIVE HIM THE 
BENEFIT OF THE DOUBT AND DRAFT HIS COAT IN THE REGULAR WAY. 


F YOU ARE UNCERTAIN WHETHER YOUR CLIENT IS EXTRA ERECT OR NOT, DO NOT CHANGE 

YOUR DRAFT FROM THE NORMAL. 











THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


PEAKED=LAPEL DRESS COAT. 


BODY PART AND COLLAR. 

DIAGRAM 27. 


measures for this draft are as follows: 


9 depth-of-scye, 

I 7I natural waist, 

19 fashionable waist, 
40^ length. 


12 front-of-scye, 
12^ first-over, 

17f second-over, 


39 breast, 
36 waist. 


Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is i inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9^ inches altogether for this draft ; A to 

C is the natural waist; A to D is the fashionable waist; E is half-way between A and B, 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 12 inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up 
and down from G as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is ^ inch less than the distance from A 

to G, i6j inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 13^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, i8f inches for this draft. Sweep back 
from K, pivoti ng at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is ly inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is 15 inch. Square up from P. This 
establishes Q, R and S, 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this 
draft, but may be a little more or less accordirrg to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from S to C to establish V. 

C to W is y^y breast and W to X is f inch, but may be a little more or less according 
to taste or style. 

Shape the backpart as represented. 

The side seam 7 nay be either less or more curved than to V, according to taste or style. 

F to Y is ^ waist, 9 inches for this draft. Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half-way 
between Z and B. 

From X to 2 is the same as from Y to i, 2\ inches for this draft. 2 to 3 is waist and 3 
to 4 equals i to B, | inch for this draft. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from Q toward F. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 

Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing y inch at the breast line, making the length 
to 6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower waist line 
and giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast and 8 to 9 is 2\ inches. 

C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to ii is one-half full waist and ii to 12 is i inch. 








THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


73 



Square down from 11. This establishes 14, 14 to 15 is ^ inch more than waist. Draw 

a straight line for the bottom of the forepart from 7 through 15. This establishes 16. 

J to 18 is ^ breast, 18 to 18B is i inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
gorge from S through 18B. T///s line may be drawn througJi a point a Utile JugJicr or loivcr 
than according to taste or style; but 18 is always breast below J. 

J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is f inch for dress coats. Draw a straight line from 

20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Draw a straight line from 16 to 21 and shape the V as represented, making it ^ inch wide. 









































































74 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from 
H as at N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2, 

U2 to 22 is inch or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

Shape the front center as represented from 21 through 9 and 12, establishing 17. 

To Draft the Lapel Direct as shown by the solid lines: Draw a straight line from 
21 to 17 and square forward from 21. 

21 to 25 is 4 inches when the waist is 4 inches or more smaller than the breast, but the 
distance decreases inch for each inch the waist falls short of being 4 inches smaller than the 
breast. For this draft 21 to 25 is, therefore, only 3^ inches, as the waist size, 36 inches, lacks 
I inch of being 4 inches smaller than the breast size, 39 inches. 

Draw a straight line from 25 through 17, extending it i| inch as to 24. 

A good guide for the slant of the top is to draw a straight line through 25 from a point on 
the waist seam as far from 16 as 21 is from 25, 3^ inches for this draft. 

For this draft 25 to 23 is 2 inches, 13 to 10 is 2^ inches and 17 to 26 is inch; but 
these widths may be slightly increased or decreased according to taste or fashion. 

Shape as represented. 

26 to the end-of-roll buttonhole is 3! inches for this draft, but may be a little more or less 
according to taste or fashion. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll toward a point i inch beyond N2. 

The Collar. —Draw the crease line through N2 and draft as represented. 

To Draft the Lapel On-Growing as shown by the broken lines: 

Extend the front center line G i^ich below i 7 as to 24. 

21 to 32 is 2 inches, 9 to loB is 2^ inches and 17 to 26 is i| inch. These widths may be 
slightly increased or decreased according to taste or fashion. 

Shape as represented. 

28 is half-way between 21 and 17, 29 is half-way between 21 and 28 and 30 is half-way 
between 28 and i 7. 

Square forward as represented from 29, 28 and 30. 

The lapel as just drafted is represefited^ cut 07 ct, by Diagram 28. To straighten it, cut 

it across from 30 to 33, 28 to 34 a 7 id 29 to 35, a 7 id proceed as follows: 

Diagram 29.—Draw a straight line on the drafting paper as from 24 to 50. 

Place the piece of the lapel below the line 30=33 on the drafting paper so that points 24 

and 30 touch the straight line. Mark along the front edge of the piece as from 33 to 31 and 

along the bottom as from 31 to 24. 

Place the piece of the lapel between 30=33 and 28=34 on the drafting paper as repre¬ 
sented and mark along the front edge as from 34 to 33. 

Place the piece of the lapel between 38=34 and 29=35 on the drafting paper as represented 
and mark along the edge as from 35 to 24. 

Place the piece of the lapel above 29 = 35 on the drafting paper as represented and mark 
along the top as from 21 to 32 and along the front edge as from 32 to 35. Reshape the front 
edge, filling in at 35, 34 and 33 

Diagram 30.—The solid lines show the pattern with the front edge reshaped. 
















THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


75 






/ 


DIAGRAM 30. 
































70 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


THE SKIRT. 

Diagram 31.—Square lines H I and H K. 

H to 7 is the width of the bottom of the sidebody. 

Place the lower part of the underarm seam of the forepart at 7, with the fashionable waist 
line of the forepart exactly covering the straight line squared forward from H, and mark 
along the bottom of the forepart to J. 

Shape the top as represented, curving it through a point i inch below J. 

7 to T equals 7 to J. 

Place the forepart in a closing position at T and mark the front of the strap to range with 
the front edge of the forepart, now shown by the broken line. 

T to U is a seam’s width more than i|^ inch. 

H to K is one-half the natural waist, 8|- inches for this draft. 

Square back from K. 

K to L is 3f inches always. 

L to M is the same as Y to i of the backpart, 2^ inches for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from H down through M. 

H to N is 18 inches always. 

M to O is f inch. 

Shape the fold edge of the plait as represented from H through O and N. 

H to P is ^ inch more than the length of the back skirt. 

'H to O is I inch and P to R is the same. 

Shape the edge of the plait as represented from Q to R. 

Square forward from P by point O. 

Draw a straight line from U to FI. 

Use the length from U to FI as a working power and proceed as follows: 

U to V is the working power (17 inches for this draft) on the scale of thirds and V to 
W is the workmg power on the scale of twelfths. 

P to X is the working power on the scale of thirds and X to Y is the working power on 
the scale of twelfths. 

Draw a straight line from W to Y and shape the bottom of the strap and the front as 
represented. 

The Back Skirt and Sleeve are drafted as represented for Diagrams 3 and 5. 






THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 



DIAGRAM 31. 


V 



































78 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


EVENING DRE55 COAT. 

{Shawl Rolll) 


DIAGRAM 32. 


the points are obtained and all the outlines are formed the same as shown on and 

explained for Diagram 27, with the following exceptions: 

21 to 2 iB is I inch, but may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

The gorge extends through 21 to the edge. 

Shape the edge of the collar and of the lapel as represented. 

Draw a straight line as from 21 to 17. 

Fite Smaller Diagram. —Place the lapel pattern cut as shown on Diagram 32, so that 
24 and 30 of the pattern touch, the straight line. Mark along the bottom of the pattern 
from 24 to 31 and up the front edge from 31 through 33. 

Pivot the pattern at 30 and swing the top of it forward until 28 of the pattern touches 
the straight line as at 28. Mark along the front edge of the pattern from 33 through 34. 

Pivot the pattern at 28 and swing the top of it forward until 29 of the pattern touches 
the straight line as at 29. Mark along the front edge from 34 through 35. 

Pivot the pattern at 29 and swing the top of it forward until 21 of the pattern touches 
the straight line at at 21. Mark along the front edge from 35 to 32 and along the top 
from 32 to 21. 

Shape the front edge as represented, filling in at 33, 34 and 35. 

The heavy lines represent the completed pattern. 







THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


79 



DIAGRAM 32. 













































80 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


EVENING DRESS COAT. 

{^Corpule^it For7nP) 

BODY PART AND COLLAR. 

DIAGRAM 33. 

HE measures are as follows; 

9! depth-of-scye, 

I natural waist, 

19 fashionable waist, 

41 length. 

Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, lOj inches altogether for this draft ; A 
to C is the natural waist; A to D is the fashionable waist; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 13! inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square 
up and down from G as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is inch less than the distance from A to 

G, 18^ inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 15 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 21 inches for this draft. Sweep back from 
K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is inch. 

■ Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is inch, Square up from P. This 

establishes Q, R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is i inch for this 
draft, but may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from S to C to establish V. 

C to W is yig breast and W to X is f inch, but may be a little more or less accord¬ 
ing to taste or style. 

Shape the backpart as represented. 

The side seain 7 nay be either less or 77 iore curved tha 7 i to V, accord 171 g to taste or style. 

F to Y is ^ waist, 12b inches for this draft. 

Whe 7 i the distaTice fro 77 i Y to B is \\ htch or less, the e 7 itire a 77 iou 7 it is to be take7i out 
betwee 7 i X aTtd 2. As the distance from Y to B is inch in this case the suppression 
between X and 2 is inch. 2 to 3 is ^ waist. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from Q to the breast line. 

5 is half way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 

Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing I inch at the breast line, making the length 
to 6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower waist 
line and giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast and 8 to 9 is 2^ inches. 

C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to ii is one-half full waist and ii to 12 is i inch. 


T3I front-of-scye, 
14 first-over, 

20 second-over. 


46 breast, 
49 waist. 



















THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


81 



Square down from ii. This establishes 14. 14 to 15 is | inch more than -jV waist. 

Draw a straight line for the bottom of the forepart from 7 to 15. 

J to 18 is i breast. 18 to 18B is i inch. Draw a straght line for the height and 
run of gorge from S through 18B. This li 7 ie may be drawn through a point a little higher 
or lower than according to taste or style; btU 18 is always ^ breast belozu J. 

J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is | inch for dress coats. Draw a straight line from 
20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H 
as at N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is I inch or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to the breast 
line and the gorge from N2 to 21. 








































































S2 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


Square up by the waist line to a point i inch back of 21. This establishes 41 and 
42. Square down from 41. 41 to 43 equals 41 to 42. Square forward from 42, 

Make the V yig- inch wide for each inch the waist exceeds proportion, proportion being 
4 inches less than the breast. As the breast used for this draft is 46 inches, 42 inches is 
the proportionate waist size, but as the waist size is 49 inches we have an excess of 7 
inches, 42 to 43 is therefore inch. 77 ^^ of the V ai^e parallel with the straight 

lines 41 to 42 aiid the line squared down front 41. 

Shape the front center as represented from 21 through 9 and 12, establishing 17. 

Square forward from 21. 21 to 25 is 4 inches when the waist is 4 inches or more 
smaller than the breast, but the distance decreases ^ inch for each inch the waist falls 
short of being 4 inches smaller than the breast. For this draft 21 to 25 is, therefore, only 
3|- inches, as the waist size exceeds proportion by 7 inches. 

Draw a straight line from 25 through 17, extending it inch as to 24. 

A good guide for the slant of the lapel is a straight line drawn through 25 from a 
point on the waist seam as far from 16 as 25 is from 21, 3I- inches for this draft. 

For this draft 25 to 23 is 2 inches, 13 to 10 is 2% inches and 17 to 26 is 1^ inch; 
but these distances may be slightly increased or decreased according to taste or fashion. 

Shape the lapel as represented. 

The dotted lines show the method of drafting the lapel to show the fortn of the roll This 
method is ftdly explained for Diagrams 27, 28, 29 and 30. 

Draw the crease line from the point to which it is desired to have the roll extend 
toward a point inch beyond N2. 

The Collar. —Draw the crease line on a curve as represented through N2. The 
height of the stand is f inch. The widths of the leaf are governed by taste or fashion. 

THE SKIRT. 

Diagram 34.—Squar.. lines H I and H K. 

H to 7 is the width of the bottom of the sidebody. 

Place the lower part of the underarm seam of the forepart at 7, with the fashionable 
waist line of the forepart exactly covering the straight line squared from H, and mark along 
the bottom of the forepart to 42. 

Pivot the forepart at 41 and swing point 43 back until it touches point 42. 

J to T is I inch plus the width of the V from 42 to 43, inch for this draft 
altogether. 

Shape the top as represented, making 42 to T equal the same point to J. 

T to U is a seam’s width more than inch. 

II to K is one-half natural waist, 8f inches for this draft. 

Square back from K. 

K to L is 3f inches always. 

L to M is the same as Y to B of the backpart, ly inch for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from H down through M. 

H to N is 18 inches always. 

M to O is f inch. 

Shape the fold edge of the plait as represented from H through O and N. 

H to P is inch more than the length of the back skirt. 

H to Q is I inch and P to R is the same. 

Shape the edge of the plait as represented from Q to R. 

Square forward from P by point O. 







THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


83 


Draw a straight line from II to U. 

Use the length from U to H as a working power (23I inches for this draft) and pro¬ 
ceed as follows : 

U to V is the workhig power on the scale of thirds and V to \V is the working 
pozver on the scale of twelfths. 



P to X equals U to V and X to Y is the same as V to W. 

Draw a straight line from W to Y and shape the bottom of the strap and the front 
edge as represented. 

The Back Skirt and Sleeve are drafted as explained for Diagrams 3 and 5. 


















84 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


THREE=BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK. 

(^For a Htuichback^ 


BODY PART AND COLLAR. 

DIAGRAM 35. 


measures are as follows : 


-1 
/ ^ 

depth-of-scye. 

12;^ front-of-scye. 

18 inside. 

15 

natural waist, 

I G fii'st over. 

sleeve length. 

17 

fashionable waist. 

I /A second over. 


33 

length. 




40 breast, 
35 waist. 


Square lines A B and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 8 inches altogether for this draft. E is half¬ 
way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E and B. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 12^ inches for this draft, and F to G is lA inch. Square up 
and down from G as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is ^ inch less than the distance from A to G, 
15! inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 12^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, i8^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

B to 41 is I inch more than the second-over, 18^ inches for this draft. 42 in half-way 
between B and 41. Square in from 42. 42 to 43 equals A to 42, G inch for this draft. Draw 

a straight line from 43 to B to establish 44. 

44 to L is y’y breast and L to M is G inch. J to J 2 equals 42 to A. Draw a straight line 
from J 2 to 44 to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is G inch. Square up from P. This 
establishes Q, R and S. 

H to 45 equals 42 to A. 

Draw a straight line from N to 45. This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from S to C to establish V. 

C to W is breast and W to X is i inch, but may be a little more or less according to 

taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from E to 44 and square forward from 44. 

Shape the backpart as represented. 

The side searn 7 nay be either less or inoi'e curved than to V, according to taste or style. 

F to Y is ^ waist, 8f inches for this draft. Z is half way between Y and B and i is half¬ 

way between Z and B. 

From X to 2 is the same as from Y to i, 2f inches for this draft. 2 to 3 is ^ waist and 3 
to 4 equals i to B, ^ inch for this draft. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from O toward P\ 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 

Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing b inch at the breast line, making the length 
to 6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower waist line 
and giving a little hip spring below 3. 








THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


85 



Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2^ inches and 9 to 10 is i inch. 

C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to i 1 is one-half full waist, 11 to 12 is 2 inches and i 2 to 13 is i inch. 

Draw a straight line from 10 to 13. 

Square down from 11. This establishes 14. 14 to 15 is waist. Draw a straight line 

for the bottom of the forepart from 7 through 15. This establishes 16. Square down from 12 
to establish 1 7. 

J to 18 is i breast. 18 to 18B is i inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
o-orge from S through 18B. This line may be drawn through a point a little higher or lower 
than according to taste or style ; but 18 is always i breast beloiv J. 




















































































86 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw.a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Draw a straight line from 16 to 21 and shape the V as represented, making it ^ inch wide. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is I inch or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F and 
the gorge from N2 to 21. 

2 1 to 23 is inch, but may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

Shape the front edge as represented, sloping it back to 17 from a point from i to li 
inch above 13, or to a little in front or back of 17, according to taste or style. 

Draw the button line from 12 through a point ^ inch back of 9. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this darft is 5 inches below 23, 

toward a point ^ inch in front of N2. 

The Collar. —Draw the crease line (for a roll that does not extend below the breast line) 
toward a point ^ inch back of N2. The leaf is the same width as from 21 to 23 at the end, and 

is inch wide at the back center, or a little more or less according to taste or style, and the 

height of the stand is f inch or a little more or less. 

THE SKIRT. I 

( 

Diagram 36.—Square lines H I and H K. 

H to 7 is the width of the bottom of the sidebody. 

Place the lower end of the underarm seam of the forepart at 7, with the fashionable waist¬ 
line of the forepart exactly covering the straight line squared forward from H, and mark along 
the bottom of the forepart to the front edge as to J. 

H to Ix IS onO'half natural w^aist, 7^ inches for this draft. 

Square back from K. 

K to L is 3f inches always. 

L to M is the same as Y to i of the backpart, 2-§- inches for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from H down through M. 

H to N is 18 inches always. 

M to O is inch if the skirt is to be French pressed (sharply creased on the plait), but 
only ^ inch if it is to be flat pressed. For this draft it is f inch. 

Shape the fold edge of the plait as represented from H through O toward N. 

H to P is ^ inch more than the length of the back skirt. 

H to Q is I inch and P to R is the same. Shape the edge of the plait as represented from 
O to R. 

Square down through J by the line squared forward from H. 

J to S equals H to P. 

Draw a straight guide-line from P to S. 

J to T is 5 inch. 

Shape the top as represented, rounding up slightly from H to 7, following the bottom of 
the forepart to about half-way between 7 and J, and then rounding down to T. 

Place the waist seam of the forepart in a closing position with the waist seam of the skirt 
(J touching T) as represented by the broken line above T, and shape the front edge of the 
skirt to range with the front edge of the forepart. 






THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


87 



DIAGRAM 36. 





















88 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


THE SLEEVE. 

The sleeve is drafted by the size of the aryn-hole, 22 to U of Diagram 35, as measured 
exactly on the drafted lute of the scye, no allowa 7 ice being made for sea 7 ?ts. 

Diagram 37.—Square both ways from A. 

A to B is the same as R to P of the backpart (Diagram 35), 4 inches for this draft, ^ inch 
less than for Diagram 5, which if for a 36-inch breast. 

B to C is f inch. 

Square forward from C. 

A to Z is one-half scye, 9 inches for this draft, the scye of Diagram 35 measuring 18 inches. 
Square down from Z. This establishes D. 

D to E is f inch always. 

Square back from E. 

D to F is one-third scye, i. e., the scye size by the scale of thirds on the ordinary tailor’s 
square. 

Draw a straight line from F to A to establish G. 

Square up from G. 

G to H is the same as G to A. 

Z to I is inch less than one-eight scye, i. e., the scye size by the scale of eighths on the 
square. 

Draw a straight line from I to D. 

Shape the top of the upperpart as represented from A through fl and I to D. 

E to L is the inside length, 18 inches for this draft. L to K is i^ inch. Square back 
from K. 

L to M is 6^ inches, or a trifle more or less, according to taste or style, generally i inch 
more than 07 ie half the band size of the shirt cuff. 

N is I inch less than half-way from E to L. 

Square across from N. 

Draw a straight line from B to M to establish O. 

N to P is I inch more or less according to style. 

O to O Is li inch more or less according to style. 

Shape the upperpart as represented. 

A to R is li inch. 

Shape the underpart as represented. 




THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 



l3( 

K 


□ 


DIAGRAM 37 . 














































90 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


DIFFERENCE OF SHOULDER HEIGHT. 


the side that is not measured, whether it is the right or the left, is higher or 
~ lower at the shoulder than the side that is measured, note in the measure book how 
much higher or lower it is, as judged by the eye, paying no attention to a less difference 
of height than ^ inch, and change the pattern for that side as follows : 

FOR A LOW SHOULDER—THE BACKPART. 

Diagram 38.—Mark round the pattern from i to 2 and below those points. 

1 to 4 is the difference of shoulder height, ^ inch for this draft. 

Move the pattern down until the top touches 4, make a point at 6 and mark along 

the back scye from 6 to 7 and along the side seam to the waist. The broken lines 4 to 

5 and ^ to 6 show the patterji with the top touchi 7 ig 4. 

Shape the shoulder seam from 2 to 6 by the shoulder seam of the pattern and extend 
the line a little above 2. 

2 to 8 is one-half the difference of shoulder height, I inch for this draft. 

Shape the top as represented from i to 8. 

The heavy solid lines show the pattern for the low shoulder. 

THE SIDEBODY. 

Diagram 39.—Mark round the pattern from i to 2 and below those points. 

I to 4 is the difference of shoulder height, i inch for this draft. 

Move the pattern down until the upper end of the underarm seam touches 4 and mark 

along the edge of the pattern from 4 to 3 and from 3 to the side-seam line already marked. 

The heavy solid lines show the pattern for the low shoulder. 

THE FOREPART. 

Diagram 40 —Mark round the pattern from i to 2, 2 to 3 and below those points. 

I to 4 is the difference of shoulder height, ^ inch for this draft. 

Move the pattern down until the upper end of the underarm seam touches 4 and mark 
round it from 4 to 5 and 5 to 6. 

Draw a straight line from 3 to 6. 

Shape the shoulder seam by the shoulder seam of the pattern from 5 through a point 
half-way between 3 and 6. 

From the straight line to 7 is one-half the difference of shoulder height, ^ inch for this 
draft. 

Shape the gorge as represented from 7. 

The heavy solid lines show the pattern for the low side. 














the new standard coat SYSTEMo 



39 
















92 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEMo 


FOR A HIGH SHOULDER—THE BACKPART. 

Diagram 41. —In drafting the pattern of the backpart for the measured side, establish 
M and N in the usual way ; then extend the shoulder seam to 2 one-half the difference of 
shoulder height, inch for this draft. 



Diagram 42.—Mark round the pattern from i to 2, from 2 to 3 and below those points. 

1 to 4 is the difference of shoulder height, ^ inch for this draft. Move the pattern up 
until the top touches 4, make a point at 6 and mark along the back scye from 6 to 7 and 
along the side seam to the waist. The broken lines 4 to 5 and ^ to 6 show the pattern 
with the top touching 4. 

Shape the shoulder seam from 2 to 6 by the shoulder seam of the pattern, 

2 to 8 is one-half the difference of shoulder height, | inch for this draft. 

Shape the top from i to 8 as represented. 

The heavy solid lines show the pattern for the high shoulder. 

THE SIDEBODY. 

Diagram 43.—Mark round the pattern from i to 2 and below those points. 

I to 4 is the difference of shoulder height, ^ inch for this draft. 

Move the pattern up until the upper end of the underarm seam touches 4, and mark 
along the edge of the pattern from 4 to 6 and from 6 to the side-seam line already marked. 

The heavy solid lines show the pattern for the high shoulder. 

THE FOREPART. 

Diagram 44.—Mark round the pattern from i to 2, 2 to 3 and below those points. 

I to 4 is the difference of shoulder height, ^ inch for this draft. 

Move the pattern up until the upper end of the underarm seam touches 4 and mark 
round it from 4 to 5 and 5 to 6. 

Draw a straight line from 3 to 6. 

Shape the shoulder seam by the shoulder seam of the pattern from 5 to half-way between 
3 and 6. 

From the straight line to 7 is one-half the difference of shoulder height, \ inch for 
this draft. 

Shape the gorge as represented from 7. 

The heavy solid lines show the pattern for the high side. 














THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


93 



4 








94 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


FROCK BACK FOR STRIPED OR PLAID GOODS. 


V\7HEN the pattern of the material is a stripe or a plaid it is desirable that the center seam 
’ and the edge of the back skirt should run with the pattern. To have them do this 
proceed as follows : 

Diagram 45—i to 2 is i| inch and 3 to 4 is the same. 

Draw a straight line from 2 down through 4. 

Make the skirt inch wider at the bottom than at the top. 

In making shrink the center seam above three as marked and stretch the side seam 
as indicated, until the edge of the backpart from 4 to 5 ranges with a straight line drawn 
from I through 4. 


WHOLE BACKS and “STUBBED” BACKS for FROCKS. 


THE WHOLE BACK. 

DIAGRAM 46. 


broken lines from 6 to 7 and from 7 to 8 are the lines of the backpart as drafted. 

^ For a whole back proceed as follows : 

6 to 9 is 5- inch and 7 to 10 is the same. 

Draw a straight line from 9 down through 10 to the length required as to 5, and square 
across from 5. 

Make the back skirt ^ inch wider at the bottom than at the top. 

In making shrink the center seam above 10 as marked, and stretch the side seam as 
indicated, until the center from 10 to 5 will run parallel with a straight line drawn from 
I through 4 of Diagram 45. 

THE “ STUBBED ” BACK. 

Diagram 47.—The broken lines from ii to 12 and from 12 to 13 are the lines of the 
bodypart of the backpart as drafted. To stub ” the back (cut it across at the waist) 
proceed as follows: ii to 14 is ^ inch and 12 to 15 is the same. Draw a straight line 
from 14 down through 15. 

Add I inch for a seam below 12 and 13 and shape to the waist as represented. 

The line from 18 through 19 to 20 and the lines below represent the back skirt drafted 
as explained for Diagram 44. 

•18 to 16 is i inch and 19 to 21 and 20 to 22 are each f inch. 

THE FALSE BACK SKIRT. 

Diagram 48.—Draft the false back skirt as represented by the shaded part of this diagram. 

23 and 24 are each ^ inch above the plait edge. 

25 is at the center of the bottom and 27 is half-way between 25 and 26. 







THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


95 




>■ 


















































96 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


TO STRAIGHTEN THE CENTER OF THE BACKPART 

FOR ROUND=SHOULDERED MEN. 


\1^HEN it is desirable to omit the center seam from the backpart, or when the coat is to be 
* ^ cut from a striped or a plaid material, the backpart pattern as drafted and cut for a 
stooping or round-shouldered man, should be changed as follows : 

Diagram 49 represents the backpart as cut. 10 is half-way between N and U. Divide 
the pattern on a straight line drawn from E to 10. 

Diagram 50.—Place the lower part of the pattern on the drafting paper so that E and B 



rest on a straight line and mark round the pattern from 10 to U and below that point. Place 
the upper part of the pattern on the drafting paper to meet the lower part at E, with A on the 
straight line, and mark round it from A to N and from N to 10 Z. The lines 071 the diagf'ani 
from E to 10 and E to \oZ need not be drawn. Their purpose is merely to outline the two parts 
of the pattern and to show their adjustment to the straight line. 

Diagram 51 shows the shoulder seam reshaped to pass from N through loZ to U. 

If the center seam is to be 077 titted reduce, of course, ^ inch front A dowti. 

The shoulder seam of the backpart is to be held full to the shoulder seam of the forepart, 
in making, as much as the distance is from 10 to 10 Z. 
















THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


97 


TO STRAIGHTEN THE CENTER OF THE BACKPART 

FOR EXTRA=ERECT MEN. 


\T^HEN it is desirable to omit the center seam from the backpart, or when the coat is to be 
cut from a striped or a plaid material, the backpart pattern as drafted and cut for an 
extra-erect man, should be changed as follows : 

Diagram 52 represents the backpart as cut. 10 is half-way between N and U. Divide the 
pattern on a straight line drawn from E to 10. 



Diagram 53.—Place the lower part of the pattern on the drafting paper so that E and B rest 
on a straight line and mark round the pattern from 10 to U and below that point. Place the 
upper part of the pattern on the drafting paper to meet the lower part at E, with A on the 
straight line, and mark round it from A to N and from N to loZ. 

Diagram 54 shows the shoulder seam reshaped to pass from N through 10 to U. 

If the center seam is to be 07 nitted reduce ^ inch from A down. 

The shoulder seam is to be stretched as much as the distance is from 10 to loZ. 












98 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


CL0SE=F1TTINQ STRAIQHT=FRONT SACK. 


DIAGRAM 55. 

^HIS draft is for a sack that will fit as closely as a frock, the allowances for making and ease 
being the same both at the breast and waist, the measures, are as follows: 




depth-of-scye, 
17 natural waist, 
30 length. 


II front-of-scye, 
I if first-over, 

17f second-over. 


36 breast, 
32 waist, 

37 seat. 


Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is i inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9 inches altogether for this draft; A to C is 
the natural waist; C to D is one-third natural waist; A to W is the length; E is half-way 
between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 11 inches for this draft, and F to G is li inch. Square up from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is f inch less than the distance from A to G, 
I5f inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, I2f inches altogether for this draft. Sweeep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, i8f inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K pivoting at G. 

A to L is jig- breast and L to M is if inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from A to J to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is if inch Square up from P. This estab¬ 
lishes R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is f inch for this draft, 
but may be little more or less, according to taste or style. 

C to C2 is I inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

Draw a straight line from L down through C2. This establishes E2, D2 and W2. 

W2 to 6 equals B3 to O for this draft, but may be more or less according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from O to 6. This establishes X and V. 

Draw a straight line from E2 to G. 

Shape the scye as represented from U toward F. This establishes O. 

Finish the backpart as represented. 

F to Y is f waist, 8 inches for this draft, Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half-way 
between Z and B. 

X to 2 is the same distance as from Y to i, 2f inches for this draft. 

S2 is f inch from S and 5 is half-way between P and G. 

Draw a straight line from S2 down through 5. 

This establishes the unlettered circled point on the waist line. 

The distance from 3 to 4, equally divided an each side of the unlettered circled point, is 
the same as from i to B, f inch for this draft. 

B3 to 8 is one-hall full breast, 8 to 9 is 2^ inches and 9 to 10 is i inch. 

C2 to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full waist, ii to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is i inch. 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 
establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 13 to 16 to estab¬ 

lish I 7. 

1 7 to 25 is I inch more than 13 to 11, 3^ inches for this draft. 

D2 to V and 25 to 26 is one-half full seat. 







THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


99 



Shape the side seam as represented from Q through 2 and 26. 

Shape the underarm cut as represented from 5 through 3 and 4. 

J to 18 is i breast. Draw a straight line for the height and run of the gorge from S 
throuo-h 18. This line may be drawn through a point a little higher or lower than 18 according 

to taste or style; but 18 is always i breast below J. 

J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

















































































































100 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM, 


Cut but the backpart, 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B3on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark alonsf the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U to 22 is f inch, or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N 2, the scye from 22 to F, and the gorge 
from N2 to 21. 

21 to 23 is 15^ inch but may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

Shape the front edge and bottom as represented. 

12 to 27 is ^ inch less than waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 28. 29 is 

half-way between 27 and 28. 30 is half-way between 29 and 27. 

Square back from 30 for the top of the flap for the hip pocket. For this draft the flap is 
6 inches long and inches wide. 

The ticket pocket should be from 3^ to 3I inches above the hip pocket. 

A good slant and height for the breast pocket may be determined by drawing a straight 
line from 8 toward a point half-way between 5 and the line squared forward from E. 

Draw the button line from 12 through a point ^ inch back of 9. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this craft is 5 inches below 23. 
toward a point inch in front of N2. 

The Collar. —Draw the crease line (for a roll that does not extend below the breast line) 
through a point ^ inch back of N2. The leaf is the same width as from 21 to 23 at the end 
and is if inch wide at the back center, or a little more or less, according to taste or style, and 
the height of the stand is if inch. 

The sleeve is drafted the same as for a frock. 

A close-fitting sach, such as this draft represents, is seldom cut for a civilian, but this is the 
foundation of all sacks. 






THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


101 


M ore than I inch should never be taken out between the backpart and the 

FOREPART AT THE BREAST LINE. 


OR A MAN WHOSE NECK IS VERY LONG OR WHO DRESSES HIS NECK UNUSUALLY HIGH, THE 
HEIGHT OF THE STAND OF THE. COLLAR SHOULD BE FROM TO INCH. 







102 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


SHAPELY CUTAWAY SACK. 


DIAGRAM 56. 

measures are as follows: 

9 depth-of-scye, 

17^ natural waist, 

31 length, 

Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is 5 inch more than the depth-of-scye, 95 inches altogether for this draft ; A to C 
is the natural waist; C to D is one-third natural waist; A to W is the length ; E is half-way 
between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 12 inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up 
from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is inch less than the distance from A to G, 
16^ inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 13 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, i8| inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is inch. Square up from P. This establishes 
R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

C to C2 is I inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

Draw a straight line from L down through C2. This establishes E2, D2 and W2. 

O2 is half-way between O and P. W2 to 6 equals B3 to O2 for this draft, but may be 
a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from O2 to 6. This establishes X and V. 

Draw a straight line from E2 to G. 

Shape the scye as represented from U toward P". This establishes Q. 

Finish the backpart as represented. 

F to Y is waist, 9 inches for this draft, Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half-way 
between Z and B. 

X to 2 is the same distance as from Y to i, 2^ inches for this draft. 

S2 is 5 inch from S, and 5 is half-way between P and G. Draw a straight line from S2 
down through 5. This establishes the unlettered circled point on the waist line. 

The distance from 3 to 4, equally divided on each side of the unlettered circled point, is 
the same as from i to B, f inch for this draft. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2^ inches and 9 to 10 is i inch. 

C2 to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one half full waist, ii to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is i inch. 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 

establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 13 to 16 to 

establish 17. 


12 front-of-scye, 
12^ first-over, 

17f second-over, 


40 breast, 
36 waist, 

41 seat. 











THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


108 



DIAGRAM 56. 


17 to 25 is i inch more than 13 to ii, si inches for this draft. 

D2 to V and 25 to 26 is one-half full seat. 

2 to 31 is I inch for this draft and 26 to 32 is the same. These additions may be decreased 
to obtain more luaist shape untilpomts 2 and 26 are reached, or increased to obtain looseness any 
amoimt up to the additions for the full-box effect of Diagrams 67 and 70. 

























































































104 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


Shape the side seam as represented from Q through 31 and 32 and make the length from 
O to 7 equal the side-seam length of the backpart from the same point to 6. 

Shape the underarm cut as represented, filling in ^ inch or a little more at 3 and 4. 

J to 18 is f breast. 18 to 18B is 5- inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
the gorge from S through 18B. T/i/s line may be drawn throtigh a point a little higher or lower 
than 1 8 i 9 , according to taste or style ; but 18 is always breast below J. 

J to 19 is I breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2,B3on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along the shoulder scam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is f inch, or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F, and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

21 to 23 is inch, but may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented or according to taste or fashion. 

12 to 27 is ^ inch less than waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 28. 29 is 

half-way between 27 and 28. 30 is half-way between 29 and 27. 

Square back from 30 for the top of the flap for the hip pocket. For this draft the flap is 
6 inches long and 2f inches wide. 

The ticket pocket should be from 3f to 3^ inches above the hip pocket. 

A good slant and height for the breast pocket may be determined by drawing a straight 
line from 8 toward a point half-way between 5 and the line squared forward from E. 

Draw the button line from 12 through a point f inch back of 9. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft is 5^ inches below 23^ 

toward a point f inch in front of N2. 

If the underarm seam is not desired, go forward ^ mch fro 77 i Q a 7 id shape the side sca 7 )i as 
represe 7 ited by the broke 7 i li 7 te, or ciu've it a little i 7 iside or outside of point 31, accordhtg to taste or 
fashio 7 i. 

The Collar is drafted the same as for Diagram 55. 

The Sleeve is drafted the same as for a frock. 











THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


105 


I P' AS A RULE YOUR COATS ARE TOO LOW IN THE NECK. ADD TO THE SCYE-DEPTH IN DRAFTING 
AS MUCH MORE THAN ^ INCH AS THEY ARE TOO LOW. IF THEY ARE TOO HIGH DO THE REVERSE. 


I F THE SHOULDERS OF YOUR COATS AVERAGE TOO CROOKED, MAKE THE DISTANCE FROM B TO H 
THE SAME AS FROM A TO G, OR A LITTLE MORE INSTEAD OF i INCH LESS. If 
THEY AVERAGE TOO STRAIGHT DO THE REVERSE. 




106 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


CUTAWAY SACK. 


{For Stooping Forini) 


DIAGRAM 57 . 

measures are as follows: 

40 breast, 
37 waist, 

42 seat* 


94 depth-of-scye, 
18 natural waist, 
32 length. 


124 front-of-scye, 
124 first-over, 
i 8 |- second-over, 


Square each way from A. 

A to B is 4 inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9! inches altogether for this draft. E is 
half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E and B. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, i2h inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up 
from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is 4 inch less than the distance from A to G, 
16^ inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 134 inches altogether for the draft. Sweep forward 
from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, iqf inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is ytj breast and L to M is i 4 inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is i 4 inch. Square up from P. This estab¬ 
lishes R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is 4 inch for this draft, but 
may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

B to 41 is I inch less than 4 breast, 9 inches for this draft. 

A to 50 is the degree of stooping, the degree being the amount that the distance from 41 
to F is more than 3 inches, 4 inch for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from 50 down through B. 

E3 is directly opposite E. 

50 to C is the natural waist and from the same point to W the length. C to D is one-third 
natural waist. Square forward as represented from C D and W. 

C to C2 is f inch. Draw a straight line from E3 to C2. This establishes B3. 

Draw a straight line from the degree of stooping back of L (4 inch for this draft) down 
through C2. This establishes E2, D2 and \V2. 

O2 is half-way between O and P. W2 to 6 equals B3 to O2 for this draft, but may be 
more or less according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from O2 to 6. This establishes X and V. 

Draw a straight line from E2 to G. 

Shape the scye as represented from U toward F. This establishes Q. 

Finish the backpart as represented. 

F to Y is 4 waist, 94 inches for this draft, Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half-way 
between Z and B. 









THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


107 


/ 



DIAGRAM 57. 


X to 2 is the same distance as from Y to i, almost 2^ inches for this draft. 

5 is half-way between P and G. 50 to S2 is i inch more than A to S. Y2 falls on S for 
this draft. Draw a straight line from S2 down through 5. This establishes the unlettered 
circled point on the waist line. 

The distance from 3 to 4, equally divided on each side of the unlettered circled point, is 
the same as from i to B, a little more than | inch for this draft. 































































108 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


B3 to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2^ inches and 9 to 10 is i inch. 

C2 to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full waist, 11 to i 2 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is 1 inch 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 
establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 13 to 16 to estab¬ 

lish 17. 

17 to 25 is i inch more than 13 to ii, 3 ^ inches for this draft, D2 to V and 25 to 26 is 
one-half full seat. 

2 to 31 is I inch for this draft and 26 to 32 is the same. These additions may be decreased 
to obtam more waist shape until points 2 and 26 are reached^ or increased to obtain looseness any 
amount up to the additions for f^dl box effect of Diagrams 67 and 70. 

Shape the side seam as represented from O through 31 and 32 and make the length from 
O to 7 equal the side seam length of the backpart from the same point to 6. 

Shape the underarm cut as represented, filling in ^ inch or a little more at 3 and 4. 

J to 18 is 5 breast. Draw a straight line for the height and run of the gorge from S 
through 18. This line may be draw 7 i through a point a little higher or loiuer than 18, accord¬ 
ing to taste or style; but 18 is always breast beloiv J. 

J to 19 is breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

2 1 to 49 is the degree of stooping, ^ inch for this draft, and 49 to 23 is i| inch, or a little 
more or less according to taste or style. This reductio 7 i is made so that the front edge from 23 
to 10 need 7 iot be mtich hollowed. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is f inch, or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F, and the 
gorge from N2 to 49. 

12 to 27 is^ inch less than } waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 28. 29 is 

half-way between 27 and 28. 30 is half-way between 29 and 27. 

48 is half-way between 16 and 28. Draw a straight guide line from i inch above 13 to 48. 
The slope may, of course, be increased or decreased below the closmg, according to taste or fashion. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented. 

Square back from 30 for the top of the flap for the hip pocket. For this draft the flap is 
6 inches long and 2\ inches wide. 

The ticket pocket should be from 3^ to 35 inches above the hip pocket 

A good slant and height for the breast pocket may be determined by drawing a straight 
line from 8 toward a point half-way between 5 and the line squared forward from E. 

Draw the button line from 12 through a point b inch back of 9. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft is 5 inches below 23, 
toward a point ^ inch in front of N2. 

The Collar is drafted the same as for Diagram 55. 

'fuE Sleeve is drafted the same as for a frock. 








THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


109 


SLANT 

OF THE BOTTOM OF THE FOREPART MAY BE INCREASED OR DECREASED SLIGHTLY 

WITHOUT AFFECTING THE FIT. 


^HE BACK 

SCYE SHOULD BE DRAWN IN FROM i TO | INCH BELOW Q AND THE UNDEK- 
SLEEVE SHOULD BE FULLED-ON THE SAME AMOUNT. 














110 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


CUTAWAY SACK. 


{For Extra-Erect Eorm .) 


measures are as follows: 


DIAGRAM 58. 


9^ depth-of-scye, 
18 natural waist, 
33 length, 


front-of-scye, 
13 first-over, 

185 second-over. 


40 breast, 
34 waist, 

42 seat. 


Square each way from A. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 10 inches for this draft. E is half-way 
between A and B. 

Square foward as represented from E and B. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, ii^ inches for this draft, and F to G is A inch. Square up 
from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to II is ^ inch less than the distance from A to G, 
16^ inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 14 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep for¬ 
ward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 19^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is ly inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is li inch. Square up from P. This establishes 
R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to II. This establishes T. T to U is i inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

B to 41 is I inch less than i breast, 9 inches for this draft. 

A to 50 is the degree of extra-erectness, the degree being the amount that the distance 
from 41 to F is less than 3 inches, ^ inch for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from 50 down through B. This establishes E3. 

50 to C is the natural waist and from the same point to W is the length. C to D is one- 
third natural waist. Square foward as represented from C, D and \V. 

C to C2 is f inch. Draw a straight line from E3 to C2. This establishes B3. 

Draw a straight line from the degree of erectness foward of L (i inch for this draft) down 
through C2. This establishes E2, D2 and W2. 

O2 is half-way between O and P. \V2 to 6 equals B3 to O2 for this draft, but may be more 
or less according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from O2 to 6. This establishes X and V. 

Draw a straight line from E2 to G. 

Shape the scye as represented from U toward F. This establishes O. 

Finish the backpart as represented. 

F to Y is d waist, 8.V inches for this draft, Z is half-way between V and B and i is half-way 
between Z and B. 

X to 2 is the same distance as from Y to i, 2| inches for this draft. 

5 is half-way between P and G. 50 to S2 is ^ inch more than A to S. 











THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


Ill 



DIAGRAM 58. 


Draw a straight line from S2 down through 5. This establishes the unlettered circled 
point on the waist line. 

The distance from 3 to 4, equally divided on each side of the unlettered circled point, is the 
same as from i to B, | inch for this draft. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast. 8 to 9 is inches and 9 to 10 is i inch. 

C2 to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is ^ full waist, ii to i 2 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is i inch. 































































































112 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


Draw a straight line from lo down through 13 to establish 14, If the distance fro 7 n C to 
13 is less thaji the distance from B to 10, as it almost invariably is for extra-erect me 7 i^ proceed as 
follows: Square down from 10. This establishes 13B and 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 

15. Draw a straight line from 13B to 16 to establish 17. 

17 to 25 is I inch more than 13 to 11, 3! inches for this draft, 

D2 to V and 25 to 26 is one-half full seat. 

2 to 31 is I^ inch for this draft, and 26 to 32 is i inch, the waist addition being more than 
usual so as not to define the extreme hollow waist of the client so clearly. 

As the underarm cut is omitted reduce i inch (two seams) from 0 to Q2, 

Shape the side seam as represented from O2 through 31 and 32 and make the length from 
O2 to 7 equal the side-seam length of the backpart from Q to 6. 

J to 18 is i breast. 18 to 18B is ^ inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
the gorge from S through 18B. This line may be drawn through a point a little higher or lower 
than I 'iiB, according to taste or style ; but 18 is always ^ breast below f. 

J to 19 is 1 breast and 19 to 20 i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

21 to 49 is the degree of extra exactness, | inch for this draft, and 49 to 23 inch, or a 
little more or less according to taste or style. This addition is made so that the front edge from 
23 to 10 need not be much I'ounded and to prevent the I'oll from being to nai'row. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast 
from I as at A2,B3on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as 
at N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is I inch, or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F, and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

12 to 27 is ^ inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 28. 29 is half¬ 
way between 27 and 28. 30 is half-way between 29 and 27. 

48 is half-way between 28 and 16. Draw a straight guide line to 48 from a point half-way 
between 13B and i 7, and shape the front edge and bottom as represented, or to taste or style. 

Square back from 30 for the top of the flap for the hip pocket. 

The ticket pocket should be from 3I to 3^ inches above the hip pocket, 

A good slant and height for the breast pocket may be determined by drawing a straight 
line from 8 toward a point half-way between 5 and the line squared forward from E. 

Draw the button line from a point i inch back of 13B through a point ^ inch back of 9. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft is 5^ inches below 23, 
toward a point ^ inch in front of N2 

TO STRAIGHTEN THE SHOULDER. 

For extra-erect forms the round on the front edge is frequently excessive, making it neces¬ 
sary to draw in the edge a great deal in making, and also, if the material used is a stripe or a 
plaid, making it impossible to cut the forepart so that the edge will anywhere near follow the up 
and down lines of the pattern of the fabric. To shorten the edge and at the same time lessen its 
excessive roundness, the shoulder may be straightened as follows : 

Diagram 59.—The hea\'y solid lines below 2 and 4 and the light solid lines above those 
points (3 to 22, 4 to 23, 23 to N2 and N2 to 22) are those of the drafted forepart of Diagram 58. 

Mark round the forepart on the drafting paper below 2 and 4. 

H to I is 1^ inch. Square back from i. This establishes 2. 

Pivot the pattern at i and swing the shoulder foward until 2 rises the degree of extra erect¬ 
ness, i inch in this case, as to 3, 







THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


113 



Mark round the pattern from 3 to the shoulder seam, along the shoulder seam to the gorge 
at N3, along the gorge to the front edge at 23B and down the front edge to the breast line. 
Reshape the scye as represented from the shoulder seam to 2. 

Reshape the front edge from 23B to the breast line, filling in as represented at 4. 

The heavy solid lines represent the completed forepart. 

In making, the scye is to be drawn in as much as it has becji enlarged from 2 to ^ i 7 ich hi 
this case. This will brhig the shoulder back to its drafted position at N'l and 22. 


























114 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


THE TUXEDO OR DINNER JACKET. 


DIAGRAM 6o. 

HE measures are as follows; 

9^ depth-of-scye, 

I 7f natural waist, 

32 length, 

Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, qf inches altogether for this draft; A to C is 
the natural waist; C to D is one-third natural waist; A to W is the length ; E is half-way 
between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and \V. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 111 inches for this draft, and F to G is i ^ inch. Square up from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is inch less than the distance from A to G, 
16^ inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 13^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep for¬ 
ward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is G inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is i 4 inch. Square up from P. This establishes 
R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is 4 inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style, 

C to C2 is I inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

Draw a straight line from L down through C2. This establishes E2, D2 and \V2. 

O2 is half-way between O and P. W2 to 6 equals B3 to O2 for this draft, but may be more 
or less according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from O2 to 6. This establishes X and V. 

Draw a straight line from E2 to G. 

Shape the scye as represented from U toward F. This establishes Q. 

Finish the backpart as represented. 

P' to Y is ^ waist, 8| inches for this draft, Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half-way 
between Z and B. 

X to 2 is the same distance as from Y to i, 2p inches for this draft. 

S2 is ^ inch from S and 5 is half-way between P and G. Draw a straight line from S2 
down through 5. This establishes the unlettered circled point on the waist line. 

The distance from 3 to 4, equally divided on each side of the unlettered circled point, is the 
same as i to B, f inch for this draft. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2^ inches and 9 to 10 is i inch. 

C2 to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full waist, ii to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is i 

inch. 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 
establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 13 to 16 to estab¬ 

lish I 7. 



I if front-of-scye, 
12^ first-over, 
i8f second-over. 


39 breast, 
35 waist, 

40 seat. 











THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


115 



17 to 25 is i inch more than 13 to 11, 3i inches for this draft 
D2 to V and 25 to 26 is one-half full seat. 

2 to 31 is ^ inch for this draft, but may be a little more or less according to taste or style, 
and 26 to 32 is the same. 

Shape the side-seam as represented from Q through 31 and 32, and make the length from 
O to 7 equal the side-seam length of the backpart. 





















































































116 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


Shape tlie underseam cut as represented, filling In ^ inch, or a little more, at 3 and 4. 

J to 18 is i breast 18 to 18B is i inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of the 
gorge from S through 18B. This line may be dnawn through a poi)it a little higher or lower 
than accordi?ig to taste or style; but 18 is always ^ breast below J. 

J to 19 is-y-breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B3on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at N2. 
Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is f inch, or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F, and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

13 to 13B is ^ inch. 

Draw the crease line from 13B toward a point inch beyond N2 for the forepart and 
through N2 for the collar. 

15 to 48 is I Inch. 

Shape the front edge below 13B and the bottom as represented. 

For the shawl roll style shape the roll edge from a back width of inch through 21 to 13B. 

For the peakeddapelstyle 21 to 23 is 2 inches for this draft, but may be a little more or less 
according to taste or style. Shape the roll edge and the collar as represented by the broken 
lines, making the collar about inch wide at the end. 

12 to 27 is ^ Inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 28. 29 is 

half-way between 27 and 28. 30 is half-way between 29 and 27. 

Square back from 30 for the hip pocket. 

If the underarm scam is not desired, shape the side seam through 31 from a point ^ inch 
foivard of Q. 

Draw a straight line from 21 to 8. 

The forepart for either style having been cut as drafted should be reshaped as follows. 

Diagram 61 {Shawl-roll forepart). Cut the pattern through from 21 to 8 and from 8 to 
the front edge. Pivot the piece thus cut from the forepart at 8, swing it foward until it spreads 
from 21 at least f inch as to 21B and then paste it to the forepart. The piece as adjusted and 
pasted is shown by the shaded part. 

Shape the V as represented to 45, which is about ^ inch from the crease line. 

Reshape the roll edge as represented from 21B to 46. The edge is now as much shorter 
than it was drafted as 46 and 47 are apart. 

Diagram 62 {Peakeddapel forepart). —Manipulate as explained for diagram 60, reshaping 
the roll edge as represented from 23B to 46. 




THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


117 
































118 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


THREE=BUTTON CUTAWAY SACK. 

{For Corpuleiit MenP) 


DIAGRAM 63. 

measures are as follows : 

10 depth-of*scye, 

18 natural waist, 

32 length, 

Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 10^ inches altogether for the draft; A to C 
is the natural waist; C to D is one-third natural waist; A to W is the length; E is half-way 
between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 13:^ inches for this draft, and F to G is li inch. Square up 
from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H I inch less than the distance from A to G, 18 
inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 15 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep forward 
from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over,' 21 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K pivoting at G. 

A to L is Pj breast and L to M is inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is inch. Square up from P. This estab¬ 
lishes R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

C to C2 is f inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. d'his establishes B3. 

Draw a straight line from L down through C2. This establishes E2, D2 and \V2. 

O2 is half-way between O and P. W2 to 6 equals B3 to O2 for this draft, but may be more 
or less according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from O2 to 6. This establishes X and Y. 

Draw a straight line from E2 to G. 

Shape the scye as represented from U toward F. This establishes Q, 

Finish the backpart as represented. 

F to Y is ^ waist, i if inches for this draft. 

IVAou the distance fro 77 i Y to B is i ^ inch or less, the efitire a 77 iount is to be applied fro77i 
X and 2. As the distance from Y to B is inch for this draft, the distance from X to 2 is also 
inch. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2^ inches and 9 to 10 is i inch. 

C2 to X and 2 to 11 is one-half full waist, 11 to i 2 is 2 inches and i 2 to 13 is i inch. 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 
establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 13 to 16 to stab- 

lish 17. 

S2 is ^ inch from S and 5 is half-way between P and G. Draw a straight line from S2 
down through 5. 


i3f front-of-scye, 
14 first-over, 

20 second-over. 


45 breast, 
47 waist, 
50 seat. 









THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


119 



17 to 25 is i inch more than 13 to 11, 3i inches for this draft. 

D2 to V and 25 to 26 is one-half full seat. 

2 to 31 is I inch for this draft, and 26 to 32 (32 and V fall together) is the same. These 
distances may be decreased to obtain more waist shape until 2 and 26 arc reached^ or increased 
to obtain looseness a?iy amount 2ip to the additions for the ftll-bo.x effect op Diagrams 67 and 70. 




































































120 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


Shape the side-seam as represented from Q through 31 and 32 and make the length from 
Q to 7 equal the side-seam length of the backpart from the same point to 6. 

J to 18 is breast. Draw a straight line for the height and run of the gorge from S through 
18. This Ihie 7 nay be draw 7 i through a point a little higher or lower than 18, according to taste 
or style; but 18 is always J breast below J. 

J to 19 is breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2,B3on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is f inch, or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F, and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

21 to 23 is Iinch, but may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented. 

12 to 27 is i inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 28. 29 is 

half-way between 27 and 28 30 is half-way between 29 and 27. 

Square back from 30 for the top of the flap for the hip pocket. 

A good slant and height for the breast pocket may be determined by drawing a straight 
line from 8 toward a point half-way between 5 and the line squared forward from E. 

Draw the button line from 12 through a point ^ inch back of 9. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft is 6^ inches below 23 
toward a point inch in front of N2. 

The Collar. —For a corpulent man the collar almost invariably requires less stand and 
more length on the outside edge than for men who are not corpulent. It should, therefore, 
generally be curved on the crease as represented and hollowed on the seam edge,and the height 
of the stand should be about f inch. If, however, the client’s neck is not short, the collar 
should be drafted in the usual way. 

TO POCKET THE BELLY. 

Cut through the forepart pattern, as drafted, from 5 down to Z and forward from Z to 13, and 
proceed as follows : 

Diagram 64.—Place the lower part on the drafting paper and mark along its edges from Z 
to 5, from 5 to Q, from Q to 7 and from 7 to 13. 

Place the upper part on the drafting paper in a closing position with the lower part; pivot 
it at Z; move the shoulder forward until the underarm cut spreads at the scye ^ inch for each 
inch the waist is larger than proportion, or f inch for this draft, as from 5 to 5, proportion 
being 4 inches less than the breast; mark along its edges from Z to 5, from 5 to 22, from 22 to 
N2, from N2 to 23 and from 23 to 13B, and reshape the front edge as represented. 














THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


121 



DIAGRAM 64. 































L22 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


ONE=BUTTON CUTAWAY SACK. 


(^For Extremely Corpident Alanl) 


DIAGRAM 65. 


measures are as follows : 

depth-of-scye, 
17f natural waist, 
31 length, 


13^ front-of-scye, 
14 first-over, 

19I second-over, 


46 breast, 
52 waist, 
58 seat. 


Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 10^ inches altogether for this draft ; A to C 
is the natural waist; C to D is one-third natural waist; A to W is the length ; E is half-way 
between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 13:^ inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up 
from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H ^ inch less than the distance from A to G, 
17I inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 15 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep forward 
from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 2o| inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is ly inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

0 is half-way between B and G and O to P is inch. Square up from P. ' This establishes 
R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

C to C2 is f inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

Draw a straight line from L down through C2. This establishes E2, D2 and W2. 

O2 is half-way between O and P. W2 to 6 equals B3 to O2 for this draft, but may be 
more or less according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from O2 to 6. This establishes X and V. 

Draw a straight line from E2 to G. 

Shape the scye as represented from U toward ¥. This establishes Q. 

P'inish the backpart as represented, 

F to Y is ^ waist, 13 inches for this draft (Y falls on B3 for this draft). 

IV/ien the distance from Y to B is ijich or less, the entire amo 2 i 7 it must be applied 

from X to 2. But X to 2 must never be less than i mch. X to 2 is, therefore, 1 inch though 
the distance from Y to B is only \ inch. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2I inches and 9 to 10 is 1 inch. 

C2 to X and 2 to 11 is one-half full waist, i i to 12 is 2 inches and i 2 to 13 is 1 inch. 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 te 
establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw'a straight line from i 3 to 16 to establish 17. 

S2 is ^ inch from S and 5 is half-way between P and G. Draw a straight line from S2 down 
through 5 to the seat line. 

17 to 25 is ^ inch more than 13 to ii, 3|- inches for this draft 







123 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 



D2 to V and 25 to 26 is one-half full seat. 

2 to 31 is f inch for this draft and 26 to 32 is the same. These distances may be decreased 
to obtain more waist shape tmtil 2 a 7 id 26 are reached, or increased to obtain looscficss, any 
a^nonnt np to the additions for the full-box of Diagrams 67 and 70. 

Shape the side-seam as represented from Q through 31 and 32 and make the length from O 
to 7 equal the side-seam length of the backpart from the same point to 6. 

J to 18 is i breast. Draw a straight line for the height and run of the gorge from S through 
18. This Ime may be drawn through a point a little higher or loivcr than according to 
taste or style; but 18 is always \ breast below f. 














































































124 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


J to 19 is breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw astraight line from 20 to 9 toestablish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at N 2. 
Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is I inch, or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F, and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

21 to 23 is I^ inch, but may be a little more or less according to taste or style. 

Mark a short cross line for the end of the roll, which for this draft is 6^ inches from 23. 

For a one-button cutaway add \ inch for ease from 10 to loB, and shape the edge as repre¬ 
sented through loB and 12, establishing 41, or through a point a little in front of or back of 12, 
according to taste or style. 

12 to 27 is i inch less than waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 28. 29 is 

half-way between 27 and 28. 30 is half-way between 29 and 27. 

Square back from 30 for the top of the flap for the hip pocket. 

Draw the button line through 9 and a point i inch back of 12. 

Draw the crease line from 41 toward a point inch in front of N2. 

The collar is drafted the same as for Diagram 63. 

TO POCKET THE BELLY. 

For extreme corpulency the following changes are more effective than those explained for 
Diagram 64. 

Diagram 66.— Divide the forepart into two parts, cutting it from 5 to Z, from Z to 30 and 
from 30 to 13. 

Place the lower part on the drafting paper and mark round it as shown by the solid lines 
from 30 to Z, from Z to 5, from 5 to Q2 and from Q2 to 7, and as shown by the broken line 
from 7 through 40 to 13. 

Place the upper part on the drafting paper in a closing position with the lower part. Pivot 
at 30 and open at Z ^ inch for each inch the waist is larger than proportion, ten eighths or 
inch for this draft, proportion being 4 inches less than the breast. Mark along the edges of the 
pattern from 30 to Z, from Z to 5, from 5 to 22, from 22 to N2, from N2 to 23 and from 23 to 
13B, and make a point at 50. 

Reshape the bottom from 7 to a point half-way between 40 and 50. 

Reshape the front edge to a point half-way between 40 and 50, filling in above and below 
13B, as represented. 

T/ie brokeji Hues fro 77 i 5 to Q, fro 77 i Q to jB a 7 id fro 77 i yB through 50, up to a7id just 
beyo 7 id 13 show, with the solid Imes with which they co 7 i 7 iect, the origmal forepart. 




THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


125 



DIAGRAM 66. 


























126 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


STRAIGHT BOX SACK. 


WITH EXTREiTELY WIDE SHOULDER AND HIGH SHOULDER SEAM. 


measures are as follows: 


DIAGRAM 67. 


8| depth-of-scye, 
I 7 natural waist, 
30 length, 


I li front-of-scye, 
12^ first-over, 

I 7^ second-over, 


37 breast, 
33 waist, 

38 seat. 


8|- ividth-of-back. 

Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9^ inches altogether for this draft; A to C is 
the natural waist; C to D is one-third natural waist; A to W is the length ; E is half-way be¬ 
tween A and B, 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and \V. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, ii^ inches for this draft, and F to G is 1=^ inch. Square up 
from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is i inch less than the distance from A to G, 
15^ inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 135-inches altogether for this draft. Sweep for¬ 
ward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 184 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is inch. Square up from P. This establishes S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes 1 '. 

If the shoulder is to be widened as a style effect, go forward from P T i, f or i inch, 
according to fashion as to P2, but if the width is to be increased, because your client has unusu¬ 
ally broad shoulders (proportionately), make B to P2 the width-of-back measure plus ^ inch for 
seams. 

If preferred, the shoulder 7 nay be ividened the same as for Diagram 85. 

P to P2 is f inch for this draft. 

Square up from P2. This establishes R. 

Square forward from T to establish T2. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from N through T2, extending it ^ inch, or a little 
more or less, as to U. 

C to C2 is I inch. Draw a straight line from L to C2 to establish E2. 

Draw a straight line from E2 to G. 

Shape the scye as represented by the broken line from U toward F. This establishes O. 

Draw a straight line for the center seam from A down through a point f inch outside of C2. 

This establishes W2. 

\V2 to'6 equals B to P2 when the width of the back is more than normal. 

Draw a straight line from P2 to 6, establishing V and X. 

Draw a straight line for the bottom of the backpart from about ^ inch below W2 to the 
same distance above 6. 















the new standard coat system. 


12 



DIAGRAM 67 


Wke 7 i the width of the back is normal as to P obtain the side seam of the backpart as shown 
on and explained for Diagram 70. 

F to Y is ^ waist, 8^ inches for this draft, Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half-way 
between Z and B. 

X to 2 is the same distance as from Y to i, 2^ inches for this draft. 






































































































128 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


5 is half-way between P and G. Draw a straight line from S2 down through 5. This 
establishes the unlettered circled point on the waist line. 

The distance from 3 to 4, equally divided on each side of the unlettered circled point, is the 
same as from i to B, f inch for this draft. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2^ inches and 9 to 10 is i inch. 

C2 to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full-waist, 11 to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is i inch. 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 
establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 13 to 16 to establish 17. 

26 is half-way between D and V and 32 is half-way between 26 and V. 

Q to O2 is ^ inch. 

From a point ^ inch back of Q2 draw a straight line for the side seam down through 32.- 

Shape the side seam as represented from Q2 to the breast line. 

Q2 to 7 equals Q to 6. 

J to 18 is ^ breast. Draw a straight line for the height and run of the gorge from S. 
through 18. This line may be drazvn through a point a little higher or lower than 18, according 
to taste or style ; but 18 is always breast beloiv J. 

J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast 
from I as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H 
as at N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is f inch, ora little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F, and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

21 to 23 is inch, but may be a liitle more or less, according to taste or style. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented. 

12 to 27 is ^ inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 28. 29 

is half-way between 27 and 28. 30 is half-way between 29 and 27. 

Square back from 30 for the top of the flap for the hip pocket. For this draft the 
flap is 6 inches long and 2| inches wide. 

The ticket pocket should be from 3I to 3^ inches above the hip pocket. For this draft 
it is 3I inches long and if inch wide. 

A good slant and height for the breast pocket may be determined by drawing a- straight 
line from 8 toward a poi nt half-way between 5 and the line squared forward from E. For 
this draft the flap is 5 inches long and 2 inches wide. 

Draw the button line through 12 and a point f inch back of 9. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft is 5^ inches below 
23, toward a point f inch in front of N2. 

The Collar — Draw the crease line (for a roll that does not extend below the breast 
line) through a point f inch back of N2. The leaf is the same width as from 21 to 23 
at the end, and is i| inch wide at the back center, or a little more or less, according to 
taste or style, and the height of the stand is i^inch. 

If a center seam is not wanted reduce the backpart f inch from A to JV2, 

The Sleeve is drafted the same as for a frock. 












THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


129 


T he SLANT OF THE SHOULDER SEAM OF THE BACKPART MAY BE SLIGHTLY MORE OR LESS 

THAN IS SHOWN ON ANY DRAFT, WITHOUT AFFECTING THE FIT. 


T he side seam may be either more or less curved than it IS FOR ANY DRAFT IN THIS 

BOOK, WITHOUT AFFECTING THE FIT. 







130 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


THREE=BUTTON DOUBLE=BREASTED SACK. 

DIAGRAM 68. 


measures are as follows : 

38 breast, 
34 waist, 
40 seat. 


9 depth-of-scye, 
I 7^ natural waist, 
33 length. 


1front-of-scye, 
12^ first-over, 

17f second-over. 


Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9^ inches altogether for this draft; A to C 
is the natural waist; C to D is one-third natural waist; A to W is the length ; E is half-way 
between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up 
from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is ^ inch less than the distance from A to G, 
16 inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 13^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, i8f inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is yV breast and L to M is inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is inch. Square up from P. This estab¬ 
lishes R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this draft, but 
may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

C to C2 is f inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

Draw a straight line from L down through C2. This establishes E2, D2 and W2. 

O2 is half-way between O and P. W2 to 6 equals B3 to O2 for this draft, but may be 
more or less, according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from O2 to 6. This establishes X and V. 

Draw a straight line from E2 to G. 

Shape the scye as represented from U toward F. This establishes Q. 

Finish the backpart as represented. 

F to Y is ^ waist, 8^ inches for this draft, Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half-way 
between Z and B. 

X to 2 is the same distance as from Y to i, 2^ inches for this draft. 

S2 is ^ inch from S and 5 is half-way between P and G. Draw a straight line from S2 
down through 5. This establishes the unlettered circled point on the waist line. 

The distance from 3 to 4, equally divided on each side of the unlettered circled point, is the 
same as from i to B, f inch for this draft. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2^ inches and 9 to 10 is 3^ inches, but may be a 
little more or less, according to taste or fashion, 

C2 to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to ii is one-half full waist, 11 to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is the 
same as 9 to 10, 3i inches for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 












THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


131 



DIAGRAM 68. 

establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 16 up through 13 

to establish 17. 

17 to 25 is i inch more than 13 to ii, 5^ inches for this draft. 

D2 to V and 25 to 26 is one-half full seat. 

2 to 31 is I inch for this draft and 26 to 32 is the same. These additiojis may be decreased 
to obtain more waist shape U 7 itilpoints 2 and 26 a 7 'e reached^ or hicreased to obtam looseness, any 
ainount zip to the additiozis for the full-box effect of Diagrams 67 and 70. 













































































132 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


Shape the side-seam as represented from Q through 31 and 32 and make the length from 
Q to 7 equal the side-seam length of the backpart from the same point to 6. 

Shape the underarm cut as represented, filling in ^ inch, or a little more, at 3 and 4. 

J to 18 is breast. 18 to 18B is i inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 

the gorge from S through 18 B. T///s line may be drawn through a point a little higher or 

lower than according to taste or style; but 18 is always ^ breast below J. 

J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark alonof the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is f inch, or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F, and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

21 to 21B is ^ inch. Draw a straight line through 21B from a point inch beyond G. 
21B to 23 is 2^ inches. The slant and width of the lapel may be decreased or increased 
according to taste or fashion. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented. 

12 to 27 is ^ inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 28. 29 is 

half-way between 27 and 28. 30 is half-way between 29 and 27. 30 to 33 is i inch for this 

draft. 

Square back from 33 for the top of the flap for the hip pocket. 

The ticket pocket should be from 3^ to 3^ inches above the hip pocket, 

A good slant and height for the breast pocket may be determined by drawing a straight 
line from 8 toward a point half-way between 5 and the line squared forward from E, 

Square back to the front end of the top buttonhole as from 42 to 41. Square back 
to 33 by the line drawn from 16 up through 13. This establishes 43. 44 is half-way between 
42 and 43. Square back from 44 and from halfway between 44 and 43. From the edge to the 
buttons is | inch, less than twice the distance from 9 to 10, 5! inches for this draft. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll toward a point | inch in front of N2. 

The Collar. — Draw the crease line through point N2. The leaf is inch wide at the 
end and if inch wide at the back center, or a little more or less, according to taste or style, and 
the height of the stand is if inch. 

The Sleeve is drafted the same as for a frock. 





THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


138 


JT IS BETTER TO CUT A COLLAR I INCH TOO LONG THAN i INCH TOO SHORT. 


UT THE SIDEBODY LONG ENOUGH. If IT IS TOO SHORT THE JOURNEYMAN WILL BE OBLIGED TO 

STRETCH IT TOO MUCH. 








134 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


FOUR=BUTTON DOUBLE=BREASTED 5ACK. 


DIAGRAM 69. 


measures are as follows: 

depth-of-scye, 
i6f natural waist, 
30 length, 


loi front of-scye, 
iii first-over, 

16^ second-over, 


35 breast, 
30 waist, 
35 seat. 


Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 8| inches altogether for this draft; A to C 
is the natural waist; C to D is one-third natural waist ; A to W is the length ; E is half-way 
between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, lo^ inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up 
from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is | inch less than the distance from A to G, 
14I inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 12^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep for¬ 
ward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 17^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is inch. Square up from P. This estab¬ 
lishes R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

C to C2 is I inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

Draw a straight line from L down through C2. This establishes E2, D2 and W2. 

O2 is half-way between O and P, \V2 to 6 equals B3 to O2 for this draft, but may be 
more or less, according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from O2 to 6. This establishes X and V. 

Draw a straight line from E2 to G. 

Shape the scye as represented from U toward F. This establishes O. 

Finish the backpart as represented. 

F to Y is i waist, 7^ inches for this draft, Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half-way 
between Z and B. 

X to 2 is the same distance as from Y to i, 2^ inches for this draft. 

S2 is i inch from S and 5 is half-way between Band G. Draw a straight line from S2 
down through 5. This establishes the unlettered circled point on the waist line. 

The distance from 3 to 4, equally divided on each side of the unlettered circled point, is the 
same as from i to B, f inch for this draft. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2^ inches and 9 to 10 is 3 inches, but may a little 
more or less, according to taste or fashion. 

C2 to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full breast, ii to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is the 
same as 9 to 10, 3 inches for this draft. 







THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


1.S5 



DIAGRAM 69, 


Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 
establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 16 up through 13 to 
establish i 7. 

17 to 25 is i inch more than 13 to 11, inches for this draft. 

D2 to V and 25 to 26 is one-half full seat. 



















































































































THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


13() 


2 to 31 is I inch for this draft and 26 to 32 is the same. These additions may be decreased 
to obtain more, waist shape until points 2 and 26 are reached., or increased, to obtain looseness any 
amoimt np to the additions for the full-box effect of Diagrams 67 and 70. 

Shape the side-seam as represented from O through 31 and 32 and make the length from 
Q to 7 equal the side-seam length of the backpart from Q to 6. 

Shape the underseam cut as represented, filling in ^ inch or a little more at 3 and 4. 

J to 18 is breast. Draw a straight line for the height and run of the gorge from S 
through 18. This line may be drawn through a point a little higher or lower than 18, according 
to taste or style ; but 18 is always ^ breast belozv J. 

J to 19 is I breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from II as at N2. 
Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is f inch, or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F, and the 
gorge from N 2 to 21. 

21 to 2 iB is i inch. Draw a straight line through 21B from point H. 21 B to 23 is 2h 
inches. The slazit azid width of the lapel may be decreased or increased, according to taste 
or fashion. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented. 

12 to 27 is I inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 28. 29 is 

half-way between 27 and 28. 30 is half-way between 29 and 27. 

Square back from a point ^ inch below 30 for the top of the flap for the hip pocket. 

For this draft the flap is 6 inches long and 2^ inches wide. 

The ticket pocket should be from 3^ to 3^ inches above the hip pocket. For this draft 
the flap is 3 inches long -i^ inch wide. 

A good slant and height for the breast pocket may be determined by drawing a straight 
line from 8 toward a point half-way between 5 and the line squared foward from E. For this 
draft the flap is 5 inches long and if inch wide. 

For this draft the end of the roll is if inch above 10. Square back to 30 by the line drawn 
through 17 to obtain the lowest button and buttonhole line. Space the edge for the button¬ 
holes as represented and square back by the same line for the buttons. From the edge to the 
buttons is f inch less than twice the distance from 9 to 10, 5f inches for this draft. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll toward a point \ inch in front of N2. 

The Collar— Draw the crease line through N2. This gives a moderately straight collar 
which facilitates a free roll. The leaf is lA inch wide at the end and i| inch wide at the back 
center, or a little more or less, according to taste or style, and the height of the stand if inch. 

The Sleeve is drafted the same as for a frock. 









THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


137 


SCYE SHOULD BE STRETCHED MORE OR LESS IN FRONT NEAR THE TOP OF THE SHOULDER. 


T he gorge should always be stretched I INCH OR MORE AT THE SIDE OF NECK, EXCEPT 

FOR THOSE WHOSE HEADS INCLINE ABNORMALLY FORWARD. 


T he back should not be fulled to the shoulder OF THE FOREPART, EXCEPT FOR ROUND- 

SHOULDERED FORMS. 




138 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


DOUBLE=BREASTED BOX SACK. 


WITH NATURAL BACK-WIDTH, BUT A iTODERATELY WIDE SHOULDER. 

DIAGRAM 70. 


^^HIS sack besides having a moderately wide shoulder without an increased back-width, has a 
considerably down-slanted gorge, a long roll and a wide button spread. The increased top- 
shoulder width and the gorge for77tation may be the same as shown on this draft for any under¬ 
coat or overcoat. 

THE MEASURES. 


9!^ depth-of-scye, 
18 natural waist, 
33 length. 


ii| front-of-scye, 
13 first-over, 

18^ second-over. 


40 breast, 
37 waist. 


Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, qf inches altogether for this draft ; A to C 
is the natural waist; C to D is one-third natural waist; A to W is the length ; E is half-way 
between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, iif inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up 
from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is inch less than the distance from A to G, 
1inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 14 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep forward 
from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 19^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is yijj breast and L to M is inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between BandGandO to P is i^^inch. Square up from P. This establishes 
R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is | inch for this draft. 

C to C2 is f inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

Shape the scye as represented by the broken line from U toward F. 

S to S2 is ^ inch. D to V is i inch more than A to S2. 

Draw a straight line from S2 down through V. This establishes Q. 

Draw a straight line for the center seam from A down through a point ^ inch outside of 
C2. This establishes W2. 

Draw a stright line for the bottom of the backpart from a point about | inch below W2 to the 
same distance above 6, and finish shaping the backpart as represented. 

If a ce7iter seam is not wanted rednce ^ mch fro7n A to W2. 

F to Y is i waist, 9^ inches for this draft. 

For a box-coat it is not 7iecessary to divide the distance from Y to B. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2\ inches and 9 to 10 is 4 inches. 

C2 to 2 is the same as Y to B, 2^ inches for this draft. 

C2 to 11 is one-half full waist, 11 to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is 4 inches—the same as 9 to 10. 













THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


139 



DIAGRAM 70. 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. S(}uare down from 13 to 
establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15, Draw a straight line from 16 up through 13. 

26 is half-way between D and V and 32 is half-way between 26 and V. 

Q to Q2 is ^ inch. 

From a point ^ inch back of O2 draw a straight line for the side-seam down through 32. 
Shape the side-seam as represented from O2 to the breast line, 






































































140 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


O2 to 7 equals Q to 6. 

J to 18 is ^ breast. Draw a straight line for the height and run of the gorge from X 
through 18. T/iis line maybe drawn through a point a little higher or lower than 18, according 
to taste or style; but 18 is always ^ breast below J. 

J to 19 is ^breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U 2 to 22 is I inch, or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F, and the 
gorge from N2 to 2'i. 

5 is half-way between P and G. 21 to Z is inch. Draw a straight line from 5 through 
Z. Z to 23 is 3f inches. The slant and width of the lapel are, of course, a matter of taste or 
fashio 7 i. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented. 

12 to 27 is ^ inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 28. 29 is 

half-way between 27 and 28. 30 is half-way between 29 and 27. 

Square back from 30 for the top of the flap for the hip pocket. 

The ticket pocket should be from 3!^ to 3^ inches above the hip pocket. 

A good slant and height for the breast pocket may be determined by drawing a straight 
line from 8 toward a point half-way between 5 and the line squared forward from E. 

The end of the roll is i inch above 13. 

Square back by the line which passes from 16 through 13 for the buttons and corresponding 
buttoholes. 

From the edge to the button line is | inch less than twice the distance from 9 to 10, 7^ inches 
for this draft. 

For a moderately long roll draw the crease line from the end of the roll toward a point f 
inch beyond N 2. 

The Collar. —Draw the crease line, for a moderately long roll, such as represented, 
through N2. The leaf is inch wide at the end for this draft, and is if inch wide at the back 
center, or a little more or less, according to taste or style, and the height of the stand is if inch. 

The Sleeve is drafted the same as for a frock. 





141 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


HE SLANT OF THE SHOULDER SEAM OF THE BACKPART MAY BE SLIGHTLY MORE OR LESS 
THAN IS SHOWN ON ANY DRAFT, WITHOUT AFFECTING THE FIT. 












142 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


SACK. 


{^Fo 7' a Hn7ichback.^ 


DIAGRAM 71. 

measures are as follows: 

7 depth-of-scye, 

I 5 natural waist, 

26 length, 

Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 7^ inches altogether for this draft, E is 
half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E and B, 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 105 inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up 
from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is | inch less than the distance from A to G, 
14 inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, iif inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 174 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is ylj breast and L to M is inch. 

B to 41 is I inch more than the second-over, 17^ inches for this draft. 42 is half-way 
between B and 41. Square in from 42. 42 to 43 equals A to 42, G Il'ich for this draft. Draw 

a straight line from 43 to B to establish 44. 

44 to L is breast and L to M is 14 inch. J to J2 equals 42 to A, Draw a straight line 
from J 2 to 44 to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is inch. Square up from P. This establishes 
R and S. 

H to 45 equals 42 to A. 

Draw a straight line from N to 45. This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

C to C2 is f inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

Draw a straight line down through C2 from a point as far from L as A is from 44. This 
establishes E2, D2 and W2. 

O2 is half-way between O and P, W2 to 6 equals B3 to O2 for this draft, but may be more 
or less, according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from O2 to 6. This establishes X and V. 

Draw a straight line from E2 to G. 

Shape the scye as represented from U toward F. This establishes Q. 

Draw a straight line from E to 44 and square forward from 44. 

P'inish the backpart as represented. 

Find the waist suppressions in the uszial way by applying ^ waist back from F, or as follows : 

X to P'2 is the front-of-scye, 10^ inches for this draft. P'2 to Y is p waist, 7P inches for 
this draft. Z is half-way between Y and X and i is half-way between Z and Y. 


10^ front-of-scye, 
io| first-over, 

16^ second-over, 


36 breast, 
30 waist, 
34 seat. 










THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


143 



DIAGRAM 


S2 is ^ inch from S and 5 is half-way between P and G. Draw a straight line from S2 down 
throimh 5 to the seat line. This establishes the unlettered circled point on the waist line. 

The distance from 3 to 4, equally divided on each side of the unlettered circled point, is 
the same as from i to Z, f inch for this draft. 

B; to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2^ inches and 9 to 10 is i inch. 

C2 to X and Y to i i is one-half full waist, ii to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is i inch. 






























































































144 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


Draw a straight line from lo down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 
establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 13 to 16 to establish 17. 

17 to 25 is 5 inch more than 13 to ii, 3I inches for this draft. 

D2 to V and 25 to 26 is one-half full seat, 

26 to 32 is ^ inch, or a little more or less, according to taste or style. Shape the side- 

seam as represented, filling in ^ inch, or a little more or less, at i. 

J to 18 is I breast. Draw a straight line for the height and run of the gorge from S 
through 18. This line may be drawn throngh a point a little higher or lower than 18, ac- 
cording to taste or style; but 18 is always ^ breast below J. 

J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to 

establish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from 11 as at 
N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is f inch,or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F and 
the gorge from N2 through 21. 

IVJmi the front edge will take a?i extreme round above 10 , if the end of the gorge ter¬ 
minates at 21 , take out one or two V’s, as represejited, and extend the gorge the width of the 
V-reduction beyond 21., as to 21B. 

2iB to 23 is 1^ inch, but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented. 

12 to 27 is ^ inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 28. 29 

is half-way between 27 and 28. 30 is half-way between 29 and 27. 

Square back from 30 for the top of the flap for the hip pocket, 

A good slant and height for the breast pocket may be determined by drawing a straight 

line from 8 toward a point half-way between 5 and the line squared forward from E. 

Draw the button line from 12 through a point \ inch back of 9, 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft is 5 inches below 
23, toward a point ^ inch in front of N2. 

The Collar. —If the shoulders are extremely high, it is a good plan to curve the crease 
slightly through N2, as represented. The leaf is the same width as from 2iBto 23 at the 
end, and is if inch wide at the back center, or a little more or less, according to taste or 
style, and the height of the stand is | inch. 

The Sleeve is drafted the same as for a frock. 





145 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


OR A MAN WHOSE NECK IS VERY LONG OR WHO DRESSES HIS NECK UNUSUALLY HIGH, THE 
HEIGHT OF THE COLLAR SHOULD BE FROM O TO 14 INCH. 













146 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


BOYS’ SACK. 


DIAGRAM 72. 


^OR boys so small that it is almost impossible to take the sectional measures with practical 
accuracy, say for breast sizes below and including 29 inches, proceed as follows: 


10^ natural waist, 
19 length. 


THE MEASURES. 

I 2 inside 
sleeve length, 


24 breast, 
23 waist, 
25^ seat. 


Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is ^ breast, 6 inches for this draft ; A to C is the natural waist; C to D is one-third 
natural waist; A to \V is the length, E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to G is ^ inch more than f breast, 8^ inches altogether for this draft, Square up from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is inch less than the distance from A to G, 
10^ inches for this draft. Square up H. 

G to I is I inch more than f breast, 9 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep forward 
from T, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is one-half full breast, 12 inches for this draft. Sweep back from K, pivoting at G, 

A to L is breast and L to M is inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is breast. Square up from P. This estab¬ 
lishes R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is f inch for this draft, 

but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

C to C2 is -jiy breast. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

Draw a straight line from L down through C2. This establishes E2, D2 and \V2. 

O2 is half-way between O and P. W2 to 6 equals B3 to O2 for this draft, but may be 
more or less, according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from O2 to 6. This establishes X and V. 

Draw a straight line from E2 to G. 

Shape the scye as represented from U toward F. This establishes Q. 

Finish the backpart as represented. 

G to F is inch. F to Y is | waist, 5I inches for this draft, Z is half-way between Y 

and B, and i is half-way between Z and B. 

X to 2 is the same distance as from Y to i, J inch for this draft. 

S2 is ^ inch from S and 5 is half-way between P and G. Draw a straight line from S2 
down through 5, This establishes the unlettered circled point on the waist line. 

The distance from 3 to 4, equally divided on each side of the unlettered circled point, is 
the same as from i to B. inch for this draft. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2^ inches and 9 to 10 is i inch. 

C2 to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to ii is one-half full waist, ii to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is i inch. 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 

establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 13 to 16 to establish 17. 









THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


147 



17 to 25 is I inch more than 13 to ii, 3^ inches for this draft. 

D2 to V and 25 to 26 is one-half full seat. 

2 to 31 is I inch for this draft and 26 to 32 is the same. More or less than f inch may, 
of course, be added, according to taste or style. 

Shape the side-seam as represented from 0 through 31 and 32 and make the length from 
Q to 7 equal the side-seam length of the backpart from the same point to 6. 




































































148 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


Shape the underarm cut as represented. 

J to 18 is breast. i8 to i8B is ^ inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
the gorge from S through i8B. T/ns Ime may be drawn through a point a little higher or lower 
than \%B, according to taste or style; but i8 is always breast below J. 

J to 19 is breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is i inch, or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F, and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

21 to 23 is I inch, but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented. 

12 to 27 is ^ inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 28. 29 is 

half-way between 27 and 28. 30 is half-way between 29 and 27. 

Square back from 30 for the top of the flap for the hip pocket. 

A good slant and height for the breast pocket may be determined by drawing a straight 
line from 8 toward a point half-way between 5 and the line squared forward from E. 

Draw the button line from 12 through a point \ inch back of 9. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft is 4 inches below 23, 
toward a point ^ inch in front of N2. 

The Collar.— Draw the crease line through N2. The leaf is the same width as from 21 
to 23 at the end. and is inch wide at the back center, or a little more or less, according to taste 
or style, and the height of the stand is f inch. 

THE SLEEVE. 

The sleeve is drafted by the actual size of the armhole, which in this case is 1 inches. 

Diagram 73.—Square lines A J and A Z. 

A to B is the same as E to B of the backpart (Diagram 72), 3 inches for this draft, and B 
to C is |- inch. Square forward from C. 

A to Z is one-half scye, 5 J inches for this draft. Square down from Z. This establishes D. 

D to E is 5 inch for the small sizes. Square back from E. 

D to F is one-third scye (the scye size on the scale of thirds), 3| inches for this draft. 
Draw a straight line from F to A to establish G. Square up from G. G to H is the same 
as G to A. 

Z to I is inch less than one-eighth scye—the scye size on the scale of eighths. 

Shape the top of the upperpart as represented from A through H and I to D. 

Apply the width of the back to A and measure the outside length to J (21 inches for this 
draft), allowing nothing for making, square across from J as to K and go up i inch to L ; or 
apply the inside length (12 inches for this draft), if preferred, from E to L, go down i inch to 
K and square across from K as represented. 

K to Y is ^ breast and Y to M is ^ inch. 

N is I inch less than half-way from E to L. Square across from N. 

Draw a straight line from B to M to establish O. 

N to P is ^ inch and O to Q is breast. 

Finish the upperpart as represented. 

A to R is breast. 

Finish the underpart as represented. 





THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


149 



DIAGRAM 73. 





































150 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


WHOLE BACKPART FOR A SHAPELY SACK. 


r^IAGRAM 74 represents the backpart as drafted for a shapely sack. Make a point on the 
waist line half-way between the center seam and the side seam as at A. 

Diagram 75.—Having adjusted the center seam of the backpart from the waist up to a 
straight line (line B C of the diagram), mark around the pattern above the waist line and make 
points at D and E. Pivot the pattern at A with a pin or the point of a pencil, adjust the center 
seam below the waistline to the straight line on the drafting paper, make points at F and G and 
mark around the pattern below the waist line. 

Diagram 76 represents the backpart as outlined by Diagram 75, reduced I inch (a seam’s 
width) from H to I. 

In making, shrink the back center the amount from D to F of Diagram 75, and stretch the 
side-seam the amount from E to G. 





THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 



DIAGRAM 76. 



DIAGRAM 75. 



DIAGRAM 74. 






































152 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


SACK WITH RAGLAN SLEEVE. 


DIAGRAM 77. 


measures are as follows: 

9^ depth-of-scye, 
17^ natural waist, 
31 length, 


I if front-of-scye, 
i2f first-over, 

19 second-over. 


39 breast, 
36 waist, 
42 seat. 


Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 10 inches altogether for this draft ; A 

to C is the natural waist ; C to D is one-third natural waist; A to W is the length ; E is 

half-way between A and B, 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, iif inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square 
up from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is 5- inch less than the distance from A 

to G, i6j inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 13! inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 20 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is yij- breast and L to M is G inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish 24 and N. 

Draw a straight line from 24 to B. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is inch. Square up from P. This 
establishes R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes U. 

C to C2 is f inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This established B3. 

Draw a straight line from L down through C2, This establishes E2, D2 and W2. 

O2 is half-way between O and P. W2 to 6 equals B3 to O2 for this draft, but may be 
more or less, according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from O2 to 6. This establishes X and V. 

Draw a straight line from E2 to G. 

Shape the shoulder seam and scye as represented from N through U and R toward 
F. This establishes Q. 

Finish the backpart as represented. 

P" to Y is ^ waist, 9 inches for this draft, Z is half-way between Y and B and i is 
half-way between Z and B, 

X to 2 is the same distance as from Y to i, 2j^j inches for this draft. 

S2 is ^ inch from S and 5 is half-way between P and G, Draw a straight line from 
S2 down through 5. This establishes the unlettered circled point on the waist line. 

Phe distance from 3 to 4, equally divided on each side of the unlettered circled point, 

is the same as from i to B, inch more than inch for this draft. 

B3 to 8 is ^ full breast, 8 to 9 is 2^ inches, and 9 to 10 is i inch. 

C2 to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full waist, ii to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 

13 is I inch. 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 











158 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 



DIAGRAM 77 . 


to establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 

to establish 17. 

17 to 25 is i inch more than 13 to 11. 
Di to V and 25 to 26 is one-half full seat. 

2 to 31 is I inch for this draft and 26 
according to taste or style. 


and 15. Draw a straight line from t6 to r'* 


to 32 is the same, but may be more or less 































































































154 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


Shape the side-seam as represented from Q through 31 and 32 and make the 
length from Q to 7 equal the side-seam length of the backpart from the same point at 6, 

Shape the underarm cut as represented, filling in ^ inch, or a little more, at 3 and 4. 

J to 18 is i breast. 18 to 18B is ^ inch. Draw a straight line for the height and 
run of the gorge from S through 18B. This Ime may be drawn through a point a little 
higher or lower than \ZB, accordmg to taste or style; but 18 is always breast below J. 

J to 19 is breast, and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to 
establish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast 
from I as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up 
from H as at N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2 ; that is, to R of 
the backpart as drafted. 

G to 33 (the forearm notch) is i inch, 

G to 34 is I inch. Draw a straight line from 34 to N2. 35 is half-way between 34 

and N2. Draw a straight line from 35 to U2, establishing 36. 36 to 37 equals 36 to 35. 

Shape the shoulder seam and scye as represented from N2 through 37 and 33 to F. 

Square forward from N2. N2 to N3 is ^ inch and 21 to 21B is the same. Shape 
the gorge as represented from N3 to 21B and make the distance G inch, or a little more 
or less, from 21 B to 23. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented. 

12 to 27 is ^ inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 28. 29 

is half-way between 27 and 28. 30 is half-way between 29 and 27. 

Square back from 30 for the top of the flap for the hip pocket. 

The ticket pocket should be from 3^ to 3^ inches above the hip pocket. 

A good slant and height for the breast pocket may be determined by drawing a straight 
line from 8 toward a point half-way between 5 and the line squared foward from E. 

Draw the button line through 12 and a point ^ inch back of 9. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft is 5.^ inches below 
23, toward a point ^ inch in front of N3. 

The Collar. —Draw the crease line (for a roll that does not extend below the breast 
line) toward a point i inch back of N3. The leaf is the same width as from 21B to 23 
at the end, and is i|- inch wide at the back center, or a little more or less, according to 
taste or style, and the height of the stand is G inch. 

Cut out the forepart and also cut out the shaded shoulder piece and lay it aside to be 
added to the sleeve. 

THE SLEEVE. 

The sleeve is drafted by twice the size of the scye from R to 33, which we term the 
scye size. 

R to II inches for this draft. Twice 8f inches, or 17^ inches, is therefore the 

scye size used in producing the folloiuing diagram. 

Diagram 78.—Square lines A J and A Z. 

A to B is the same as E to B of the backpart (Diagram 77), 5 inches for this draft. 

B to C is f inch. 

Square forward from C. 

A to Z is ^ scye size, 8f inches for this draft. 

Square down from Z. This establishes D. 

D to E is t inch always. 




THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


155 


Square back from E. 

D to F is one-third scye size—for this draft 17^ 
on the SCALE of thirds on the ordinary tailor’s square. 

Draw a straight line from F to A to establish G. 

Square up from G. 

G to H is inch less than G to A. 

Draw a straight line from A through H. 

Take the shoulder piece that was cut from be¬ 
tween the backpart and forepart (Diagram 77), and 
place its straight edge on the line drawn from A 
through H, its point, U2, touching A of this draft, 
Mark round the shoulder-piece and remove it. The 
shaded part of the diagram represents the shoulder- 
piece placed as explained. 

Shape the back shoulder seam as represented 
from N2 to A, rounding out ^ inch, or a little more or 
less, as to 38. 

37 to 41 is f inch. 

N 2 to 39 is ^ inch. 

Draw a straight line from 41 to D. 

Shape the front shoulder seam as represented from 
39 through a point half-way between 37 and 41 to D, 
allowing inch at 40. 

Apply the width of the backpart to A and 
measure the outside length to J (33 inches for this 
draft), allowing nothing for making. Square across 
from J as to K, and go up inch to L; or apply the 
inside length (19 inches for this draft) from E to L, go 
down inch from L to K and square across from K. 

L to M is 6f inches, or a little more or less, 
according to taste or style, generaly i inch ynore than 
one-half of the ba?td size of the shirt cuff. 

N is I inch less than half-way from E to L. 

Square across from N. 

Draw a straight line from B to M to establish O. 

O to Q is inch. 

N to P is f inch, more or less, according to style. 

A to R is 15 inch. 

P'inish as represented. 



DIAGRAM 73. 


CO 
























L 56 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


W HEN IN DOUBT CUT A PROPORTIONATE PATTERN. 








THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


157 


PROPORTIONATE MEASURES. 


(As taken on the Vest.) 


Breast. 

Scye Depth. 

Blade. 

First-over. 

30 

/ 

9 

10 

31 

7 i 

9 \ 

I of 

32 

7 ^ 

9 \ 

io| 

33 

7 f 

10 

I T 

34 

8 

I of 

Ilf 

35 

8^ 

I of 

Ilf 

36 

8i 

11 

I 2 

37 


Ilf 

I 2 f 

38 


Ilf 

I 2 f 

39 

9 

Ilf 

I 2 f 

40 

9 \ 

I 2 

13 

41 

9 \ 

I2ir 

i 3 f 

42 

9 i 

I 2 i 

i 3 f 

43 

9 § 

I 2 | 

i 3 f 

44 

9 l 

13 

14 

45 

10 

i 3 f 

i 4 i 

46 

10^ 

i 3 f 

i 4 f 

47 ‘ 

10^ 

i 3 f 

i 4 f 

48 

lo.i 

14 

15 

49 

I of 

i 4 f 

i 5 f 

50 

io|- 

i 4 f 

i 5 f 


Second-over. 

14 
14^ 

15 

16 
16^ 

17 

18 

i8i 

m 

19 
19! 

20 
2o4 
20^ 

2 I 
21^ 

21^ 




















THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


159 


PART II. 

OVERCOATS IN GENERAL USE, 


SHOULDER CAPES AND HOODS. 





160 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


I F THE SHOULDERS OF YOUR COATS AVERAGE TOO CROOKED, MAKE THE DISTANCE FROM B TO H 
THE SAME AS FROM A TO G, OR A LITTLE MORE INSTEAD OF INCH LESS. If 
THEY AVERAGE TOO STRAIGHT DO THE REVERSE, 










THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


161 


THE MEASURES. 


measures may be taken either on the undercoat and used in drafting as already 

* explained, or on the vest as for an undercoat and then enlarged for drafting. 

The better plan is to take them on the undercoat. 

When taken on the vest enlarge for drafting, as follows : 

For light weight 7 naterials add \ inch to the depth-of-scye, ^ inch to the front-of-scye, 
^ inch to the first-over, f inch to the second-over and 2 inches to the breast, the waist 
and the seat measures. 

For heavy weight inate^'ials add ^ inch to the depth-of-scye, | inch to the front-of-scye, 

I inch to the first-over, i inch to the second-over and 3 inches to the breast, the waist 

and the seat. 

Whc 7 i the fneasures are take^i oji the vest and the^i enlarged for drafting, the same 
additions are 7 nade in drafting as for a 7 t undercoat. 














162 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


CHESTERFIELD OR FLY=FRONT OVERSACK. 


DIAGRAM 79. 


measures, which are for a proportionate form, are as follows: 


8 | 

17 

40 


depth-of-scye, 
natural waist, 
length. 


11 ^ front-of-scye. 
12^ first-over, 

17f second-over. 


[Taken on the tinder coat.) 


38 breast, 
34 waist, 

39 seat. 


Square lines A W and A S, 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9!^ inches altogether for this draft; A to C is 
the natural waist; C to D is one-third natural waist; A to W is the length ; E is half-way 
between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, inches for this draft, and F to G is G inch. Square 
up from G. 

Draw a straieht line from A to G. B to FI is 1 inch less than the distance from A to G, 
15I inches for this draft, Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 13^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, i8| inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is ly inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G, and O to P is inch. Square up from P. This 
establishes R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

C to C2 is f inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

Draw a straight line from L down through C2. This establishes E2, D2 and W2. 

O2 is half-way between O and P. \V2 to 6 equals B3 to O2 for this draft, but may be 
more or less according to taste or style. 

Draw a straiMit line from O2 to 6. This establishes X and V. 

o 

Draw a straight line from E2 to G. 

Shape the scye as represented from U toward F. This establishes Q. 

Finish the backpart as represented. 

F to Y is ^ waist, 8^ inches for this draft, Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half way 
between Z and B. 

X to 2 is the same distance as from Y to i, 2;^ inches for this draft. 

S2 is ^ inch from S, and 5 is half-way between P and G. Draw a straight line from S2 
down through 5. This establishes the unlettered circled point on the waist line. 

The distance from 3 to 4, equally divided on each side of the unlettered circled point, is 
the same as from i to B, f inch for this draft. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2^ inches and 9 to 10 is 2 inches. 

C2 to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to ii is one-half full waist, 11 to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is the 
same. 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 







THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


163 



DIAGRAM 79. 


establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 to 15. Draw a straight line from 16 through 13 to 

establish i 7. 

17 to 25 is i inch more than 13 to ii, 4i inches for this draft. 

D2 to V and 25 to 26 is one-half full seat. 

2 to 31 is I inch for this draft, and 26 to 32 is the same. These additions may be decreased 












































































164 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


to obtain more waist shape tmtilpoints 2 and 26 are reached, or mcreased to obtahi looseness, any 
a 7 noii 7 it tip to the additions for the full box effect of Diagram 87. 

Shape the side seam as represented from Q through 31 and 32, and make the length from 
Q to 7 equal the side-seam length of the backpart from the same point to 6. 

Shape the underarm cut as represented, filling in ^ inch ora little more at 3 and 4. 

J to 18 is ^ breast. 18 to 18B is ^ inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of the 
gorge from S through 18B. This line may be drazvti through a point a little higher or lower 
than I ZD, according to taste or style ; but 18 is always ^ breast below J. 

J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 
21. 21 to 2iB is ^ inch. This is for style effect only. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at N2. 
Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is f inch, or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F, and the 
gorge from N2 to 21B. 

21B to 23 is 11 inch, but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented. 

12 to 27 is ^ inch less than waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 28. For 

this draft the hip-pocket flap is 6^ inches long and 2\ inches wide. 

The ticket pocket should be from 3^ to 3^ inches above the hip-pocket as at 29. For 
this draft the flap is 3^ inches long and i| inch wide. 

A good slant and height for the breast j)ocket may be determined by drawing a straight 
line from 8 toward a point half-way between 5 and the line squared forward from E. For 
this draft the flap is 5 inches long and if inch wide. 

From the edge to the buttons is f inch less than twice the distance from 9 to 10, 3f 
inches for this draft. 

Square back by the line that passes from 16 through 17 for the buttons and corresponding 
buttonholes. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, wTich for this draft is 7 inches below 
23, toward a point f inch in front of N2. 

The Collar. — Draw the crease line (for a roll that does not extend below the breast 
line) toward a point f inch back of N2. The leaf is the same width as from 21 B to 23 
at the end, and is 2 inches wide at the back center, or a little more or less, according to 
taste or style, and the height of the stand is if inch. 

THE SLEEVE. 

The sleeve is drafted by the size of the armhole, 22 to U of Diagram 79, as tneasured 
exactly on the drafted litie of the scye, no allowazice being made for seams. 

Diagram 80. —Square lines A J and A Z. 

A to B is the same as E to B of the backpart (Diagram 79), 4I inches for this draft. 

B to C is f inch. 

Square forward from C. 

A to Z is one half scye, 9 inches for this draft, the scye of Diagram 79 measuring 18 
inches. 

Square down from Z. This establishes D. 

D to E is f inch always. 

Square back from E. 









THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


165 


D to F is one third scye—the scye size by 
the SCALE OF THIRDS Oil the ordinary tailor’s 
square. 

Draw a straight line from F to A to estab¬ 
lish G. 

Square up from G, 

G to H is the same as G to A. 

Z to I is inch less than one-eighth scye— 
the scye size by the scale of eights on the 
square. 

Draw a straight line from I to D. 

o 

Apply the width of the backpart to A and 
measure the outside length to J (34! inches for 
this draft), allowing nothing for marking, square 
across from J as to K and go up I5 inch to L; 
or apply the inside length if preferred (20 inches 
for this draft), from E to L, go down inch 
from L to K and square across from K. 

L to M is 7^ inches, or a little more or less, 
according to taste or style, generally 2 inches more 
than one-half the band size of the shirt cuff. 

N is I inch less than half-way from E to L. 

Square across from N. 

Draw a straight line from B to i\I to estab¬ 
lish O. 

O to O is id inch. 

N to P is I inch, more or less, according to 
style. 

Shape the upperpart as represented by the 
solid lines for a half-and-half sleeve. 

A to R is I ^ inch. 

Shape the underpart as represented by the 
solid lines for a half-and-half sleeve. 

To place the forearm seam further under 
the arm proceed as follows: 

E to S is any amount desired from d inch 
to 3 inches (for this draft it is if inch), and 
E to T is the same. 

Square each way from L. 

L to W equals E to S (if inch for this 
draft) and L to X is the same. 

Draw straight lines from S to W and from 

T to X. 

i to 2 is f inch, more or less, according 
to style, and 3 to 4 is the same. 

Shape the inseam edges as represented from 
T through 4 to X, and from S through 2 to W. 
















































166 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


CHESTERFIELD. 

{For Corpulent Man. Disproportionately Small Seat.^ 


measures are as follows : 


DIAGRAM 8 I . 


9I depth-of-scye, 
18 natural waist, 
42 length, 


13 front-of-scye, 
i4|- first-over, 
2o| second-over, 


45 breast, 

46 waist, 

47 seat. 


(Taken o?t the Undercoati) 


Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye^ lo^ inches altogether for this draft; A to C 
is the natural waist; C to D is one-third natural waist; A to W is the length ; E is half-way be¬ 
tween A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 13 inches for this draft, and F to G is i^inch. Square up from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is ^ inch less than the distance from A to G, 
17! inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is 1 inch more than the first-over, 14I inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 2if inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is if inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G, and O and P is if inch. Square up from P. This 
establishes R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is f inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

C to C2 is f inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

Draw a straight line from L down through C2. This establishes E2, D2 and W2. 

O2 is half-way between O and P. W2 to 6 equals B3 to O2 for this draft, but may be 
more or less according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from O2 to 6. This establishes X and V. 

Draw a straght line from E2 to G. 

Shape the scye as represented from U toward F. This establishes Q. 

Finish the backpart as represented. 

F to Y is f waist, iif inches for this draft. 

Whe 7 i the distance from Y to B is \ \ inch or less, the entire amoimt is to be applied from X 
to 2. As the distance from Y to B is if inch for this draft, the distance from X to 2 is also 
if inch. 

S2 is f inch from S and 5 is half-way between P and G. Draw a straight line from S2 
down through 5. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2f inches and 9 to 10 is 2 inches. 

C2 to X and 2 to 11 is one-half full waist, 11 to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is the same. 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 














167 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM- 



establish 15. 17 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 13 down through 

17 to establish 16. 

17 to 25 is I inch more than 13 to ii, 4^ inches for this draft. 

02 to V and 25 to 26 is one-half full seat. 

When the seat size is proportionately too small for the waist size, as it is for this draft 
(^proportionately it shonld be 5 inches largei'), point 26 ivill ofte 7 i fall so far forward that it 
is not practical to carry the side-seam through it and throiLgh point 2. Whenever this hap- 

































































168 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


pens, square down from a pohit ^ inch back of 2 to the seat line, establishing 50, and add for 
looseness inch more from 50 to 49 than from 2 31. If, for example, I mch is added 

from 2 31 add ^ inch fro 77 i 50 to 49, a 7 id if ^ inch is added from 2 to 31, as for this 

drafts add | inch fro 7 n to 49. 

Draw a straight line from 31 through 49, obtain the length to 7, and shape the side 
seam as represented. 

J to 18 is i breast. 18 to 18B is f inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
the gorge from S through 18B. This line may be drawn through a pomt a little higher or 
lower than \ZB, according to taste or style; but 18 zV ahvays i breast below f. 

J to 19 is breast and i 9 to 20 is r inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A.2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as B2, and N on the line squared up from H as at N2. 
Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is I inch, or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F, and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

21 to 23 is 2\ inches, but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented. 

12 to 27 is ^ inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 28. 29 

is 3^ inches above 28. 

A good slant and height for the breast pocket may be determined by drawing a straight 
line from 8 toward a point half-way between 5 and the line squared forward from E. 

From the edge to the button line is f inch less than twice the distance from 9 to 10, 3^ 
inches for this draft. Square back by the line that passes from 17 through 13 for the buttons 
and corresponding buttonholes. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll toward a point \ inch in front of N2. 

The Collar. —For a corpulent man the collar almost invariably requires less stand and 
more length on the outside edge than for men who are not corpulent. It should, therefore 
generally by curved on the crease as represened, and hollowed on the seam edge, and the height 
of the stand should be about | inch. If, however, the client’s neck is not short, the collar 
should be drafted in the usual way. 


TO POCKET THE BELLY. 

Cut through the pattern, as drafted, from 5 down to Z, and forward from Z to 13, and 
proceed as follows : 

Diagram 82. —Place the lower part on the drafting paper and mark along its edges 
from Z to 5, from 5 to Q, from Q to 7, from 7 to 16 and from 16 to 13. 

Place the upper part on the drafting paper in a closing position with the lower part; pivot 
it at Z; move the shoulder forward until the underarm cut spreads at the scye inch for each 
inch the waist is larger than proportion, f inch for this draft, as from 5 to 5, proportion being 4 
inches less than the breast; mark along its edges from Z to 5, from 5 to 22, from 22 to N2^ 
from N2 to 23 and from 23 to 13B, and reshape the front edges as represented. 











THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


169 



DIAGRAM 82. 

















170 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


CHESTERFIELD. 

(^For Extremely Corpulent ManP) 


DIAGRAM 83. 


measures are as follows: 


I G depth-of-scye, 
18 natural waist, 
43 length, 


15 front-of-scye, 

16 first-over, 

22\ second-over. 


{^Taken on the Undercoat 1 ) 


52 breast, 
56 waist^ 
60 seat. 


Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is I inch more than the depth-of-scye, iif inches altogether for this draft; A to C 
is the natural waist; C to D is one-third natural waist; A to W is the length ; E is half-way 
between A and B. 

Square forward as represented E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 15 inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square 
up from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is i inch less than the distance from A to G, 
20 inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 17 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 23^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is G inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is G inch. Square up from P. This estab- 
ishes R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

C to C2 is f inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

Draw a straight line from L down through C2. This establishes E2, D2 and WD. 

O2 is half-way between O and P. W2 to 6 equals B3 to O2 for this draft, but may be 
more or less, according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from O2 to 6. This establishes X and V. 

Draw a straight line from E2 to G. 

Shape the scye as represented from U toward F. This establishes Q. 

Finish the backpart as represented. 

F to Y is i waist, 11 inches for this draft. 

When the distance from Y to B is i hich, or less^ X to 2 mtist be i inch; that is, X to 
2 must never be less thayi i inch, even if the distance from Y to B is less than that amount. 
X to 2 is therefore i inch for this draft. 

S2 is ^ inch from S and 5 is half-way between P and G. Draw a straight line from S2 
down through 5. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2\ inches and 9 to 10 is 2 inches. 

C2 to X and 2 to 11 is one-half full waist, ii to i 2 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is the same. 











THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


171 



DIAGRAM 83. 



































































































172 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


Draw a straight line from lo down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 
establish 15. 1 7 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 13 down through 

17 to establish 16. 

17 to 25 is i inch more than 13 to ii, 4^ inches for this draft. 

D2 to V and 25 to 26 is one-half full seat. 

2 to 31 is ^ inch and 26 to 32 is f inch. These distances may be decreased to obtain 7nore 
waist-shape until 2 a?td 26 are reached, or hicreased to obtain looseness, any amount, until the 
f7ill box effect is reached, as shown on and explamed for Diagram 87. 

Shape the side-seam as represented from Q through 31 and 32, and make the length from 
O to 7 equal the side-seam length of the backpart from the same point to 6. 

J to 18 is ^ breast. Draw a straight line for the height and run of the gorge from S 
through 18. This line may be drawn throicgh a point a little higher or lower than 18, according 
to taste or style; but 18 is always ^ breast below J. 

J to 19 is breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 
21. 21 to 2 iB is ^ inch. This is for style effect 07 ily. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2, and N on the line squared up from H as 
at N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is -I inch, or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F, and the 
gorge from N2 to 21B. 

21 B to 23 is if inch, but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented. 

12 to 27 is f inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 28. 28 to 

29 is 3-2- inches. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft is 8 inches below 23 
toward a point f inch beyond N2. 

The Collar is drafted the same as for Diagram 81, and the Sleeve the same as for 
Diagram 80. 


TO POCKET THE BELLY. 

For extreme corpulency the following changes are more effective than those explained for 
Diagram 82. 

Diagram 84.—Divide the forepart into two parts, cutting it from 5 to Z, from Z (28 of 
Diagram 83) to 30 and from 30 to 13. 

Place the lower part on the drafting paper and mark round it as shown by the solid lines 
from 30 to Z, from Z to 5, from 5 to Q2 and from O2 to 7, and as shown by the broken lines 
from 7 to 16 and from 16 to 13. 

Place the upper part on the drafting paper in a closing position with the lower part. Pivot 
at 30 and open at Z ^ inch, for each inch the waist is larger than proportion, f or i inch for this 
draft, proportion being 4 inches less than the breast. Mark along the edges of the pattern 
from 30 to Z, from Z to 5, from 5 to 22, from 22 to N2, from N2 to 23 and from 23 to 
13B, and make a point at 16B (the front lower corner). 

Reshape the bottom through a point half-way between 16B and 40 as to 6C, and reshape 
the front edge as represented to the same point. 

The brokeji lines from 5 to Q, fro7n Q to ^B, fro77t to \ 6B and fro7n 16B up through \},B, 

show with the solid lines, with which they connect, the origmal forepart. 








THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


173 




DIAGRAM 84 













174 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


COVERT COAT. 


FULL BOX. 

DIAGRAM 85. 


'p'HE measures are as follows : 

9^ depth-of-scye, 
17^ natural waist, 
36 length, 


12^ front-of-scye, 
I3|- first-over, 
igl second-over, 


41 breast, 
37 waist. 


{Tcike?i on the Undercoat?) 

Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, qf inches altogether for this draft; A to C is 
the natural waist; C to D is one-third natural waist; A to W is the le ngth; E is half-way 
between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 12^^ inches for this draft, and F to G is I5 inch. Square up 
from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is i inch less than the distance from A to G 
i6f inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 14:^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep for 
ward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 20^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is ly inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is 1 ^ inch. Square up from P. This establishes S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is i inch for this draft, but 
may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

X to Z is one-fourth as far as from T to U. 

C to C2 is f inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

Draw a straight line from A down through a point ^ inch back of C2. This establishes W2. 

S to S2 is I inch and D to V is 15 inch more than A to S2, Draw a straight line from S2 
down through V. 

Draw a straight line for the bottom of the backpart from a point ^ inch below the broken 
line at W2 to the same distance above it as to 6. 

Shape the back scye as represented through U and Z toward F. This establishes O. U to 
U3 is i inch for this draft, but may be more if desired, as for Diagram 86. 

Finish the backpart as represented. 

If there is to be no ce^iter seam reduce y inch from A to W2 in cutting the material. 

F to Y is I waist, inches for this draft. 

C2 to 2 is the same distance as from Y to B, 3 inches for this draft. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2^ inches and 9 to 10 is if inch. 

2 to II is one-half full waist, ii to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is the same as 9 to 10, ly 
inch for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 
establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 16 through 13. 









THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


175 



DIAGRAM 85. 


Q to Q2 is i inch. 26 is half-way between D and V and 32 is half-way between V and 26. 
Draw a straight line for the side-seam through 32 from a point half-way between O and O2. 
O2 to 7 equals Q to 6. Finish the side-seam by curving it from the straight line at the scye 

level to Q2. 

J to 18 is i breast. 18 to 18B is ^ inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 


































































176 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


the gorge from S through i8B. This line may be draivn through a point a little higher or 
lower than I8Z)^ according to taste or style ; but i8 is always ^ breast below J. 

J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

21 to 2iB is ^ inch. This is for style effect 07 ily. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 

I as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 

N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is f inch, or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F, and the gorge 
from N2 to 21 B. 

21B to 23 is if inch, but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented. 

12 to 27 is ^ inch less than f waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 28. 28 to 29 

is 3^ inches. 

A good slant and height for the breast pocket may be determined by drawing a straight 

line from 8 toward a point half-way between 5 and the line squared forward from E. 

From the edge to the buttons is f inch less than twice the distance from 9 to 10, 2f inches 
for this draft. 

Square back by the line that passes from 16 through 13 for the buttons and corresponding 
buttonholes. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft is 6^ inches below 23 • 
toward a point f inch in front of N2. 

The Collar. —Draw the crease line (for a roll that does not extend below the breast line) 
through a point f inch back of N2. The leaf is the same width as from 21 B to 23 at the end 
and at the back center, or a little more or less, according to taste or style, and the height of the 
stand is if inch. 

The shoulder 77tay -be wide7ied, if preferred, as explauicd for Diagra7n 67 mstead of as for this 
draft. 

The Sleeve is drafted the same as for Diagram 80. 







THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


177 


I F AS A RULE YOUR COATS ARE TOO LOW IN THE NECK. ADD TO THE SCYE-DEPTH IN DRAFTING 
AS MUCH MORE THAN ^ INCH AS THEY ARE TOO LOW. If THEY ARE TOO HIGH DO THE REVERSE. 








178 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


5TRAIQHT=B0X FLY=FRONT 0VER5ACK. 


DIAGRAM 8 6. 


measures are as follows: 

9 depth-of-scye, 
I natural waist, 
48 length, 


1front-of-scye, 
12^ first-over, 

18 second-over. 


i^Takeii 07 i the Undercoat.) 


38 breast, 
34 waist. 


Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9^ inches altogether for this draft ; A to C 
is the natural waist; C to D is one-third natural waist; A to W is the length ; E is half-way 
between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 1I5 inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up 
from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is inch less than the’distance from A to G, 
16 inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 13^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep forward 
from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 19 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is G inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is inch. Square up from P. This estab¬ 
lishes S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is i inch for this draft, but 
may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

X to Z is one-fourth as far as from T to U. 

C to C2 is f inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

Draw a straight line from A down through a point inch back of C2. This establishes W 2 

S to S2 is \ inch and D to V is inch more than A to S2. Draw a straight line from S2 
down through V. 

Draw a straight line for the bottom of the backpart from a point ^ inch below the broken 
line at W2 to the same distance above it as to 6. 

Shape the back-scye as represented through U and Z toward F. This establishes Q. U to 
U3 is ^ inch for this draft, but may be a little more or less if preferred. 

Finish the backpart as represented. 

If there is to be 710 ce 7 iter sea 77 t reduce y mch fro 7 n A to W2 whe 7 i cuttmg the 77iaterial. 

F to Y is ^ waist, 8^ inches for this draft. 

C2 to 2 equals Y to B, 3 inches for this draft. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2\ inches and 9 to 10 is 2 inches. 

2 to 11 is one-half full waist, ii to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is the same as 9 to 10, 2 
inches for this draft. 








THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


179 






^2 



Draw a straight line from lo down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 
establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 16 through 13. 

Q to Q2 is inch. 26 is half-way between D and V and 32 is half-way between V and 26. 







































180 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


Draw a straight line for the side-seam through 32 from a point half-way between Q and Q2. 
O2 to 7 equals Q to 6. Finish the side-seam by curving it from the straight line at the scye 
level to O2. 

J to 18 is ^breast. 18 to 18B is ^ inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
the gorge from S through 18B. This line may be drawn through a point a little higher or lower 
than 1 8 i 5 , accordi?ig to taste or style ; but 18 is always ^ breast below J. 

J to 19 is breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along; the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is f inch, or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F, and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

Draw a straight line from 41 through 21. 

21 to 23 is 2\ inches, but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented 

12 to 27 is ^ inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 28. 28 to 

42 is 2 inches. Square up and down from 42 for an up-and-down pocket opening and make the 
opening from 7 to 9 inches long. 42 to 43 is i inch. Sweep by A each way from 43 for a 
curved pocket top. This establishes 44. 44 to 45 is 7 inches. From the edge to the buttons 

is inch less than twice the distance from 9 to 10, 35- inches for this draft. 

Square back by the line that passes from 16 through 13 for the buttons and corresponding 
buttonholes. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft is ^ inch below 10, 
toward a point \ inch in front of N2. 

The Collar. —Draw the crease line through a point I inch back of N2. The leaf is if 
inch wide at the end and | inch wider at the back center, and the height of the stand is inch. 

The shoulder may be widened^ if preferred, as explai7icd for Diagram 67, instead of as for 
this draft. 

The Sleeve is drafted the same as for Diagram 80. 





THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


181 


T he back SCYE should be drawn in from i to I INCH BELOW Q AND THE UNDER¬ 
SLEEVE SHOULD BE FULLED-ON THE SAME AMOUNT. 






182 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


DOUBLE=BREASTED OVERSACK. 


EXTREME FULL BOX. 

DIAGRAM 87. 


measures are as follows: 


9^ depth-of'Scye, 
18 natural waist, 
45 length, 


12^ front-of-scye, 
13^ first-over, 

19^ second-over, 


(Taken 07 i the Undercoat.') 


42 breast, 
39 waist. 


Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 10 inches altogether for this draft; A to C is 
the natural waist; C to D is one-third natural waist; A to W is the length ; E is half-way be¬ 
tween A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 13^ inches for this.draft, and F to G is inch. Square up 
from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is b inch more than the distance from A to 
G, I 7^ inches for this draft. This 7nakes the shoulder ^ inch straighten than usual. Square 
up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 14^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep for¬ 
ward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. J2 is half-way between I and J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 20^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J2 to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is inch. Square up from P. This 
establishes S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H, This estalishes T. T to U is i inch for this draft, but 
may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

X to Z is one-fourth as far as from T to U. 

C to C2 is f inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

Draw a straight line from A down through a point i inch back of C2. This establishes W2. 

S to S2 is I inch and D to V is inch more than A to S2. Draw a straight line from S2 
down through W 

Draw a straight line for the bottom of the backpart from a point | inch below the broken 
line to the same distance above it as to 6. 

Shape the back-scye as represented through U and Z toward 7. This establishes Q. 

U to U3 is i inch for this draft, but may be a little more if preferred. 

Finish the backpart as represented. 

If there is to be no center seam reduce \ inch from A to JV2 ivhe7i cutting the 7naterial. 

F to Y is ^ waist, 9I inches for the draft. 

C2 to 2 is the same distance as from Y to B, 2f inches for this draft. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 3^ inches, i inch more than usual, and 9 to 10 is 4 
inches. 

2 to II is one-half full waist, 11 to 12 is 3 inches and 12 to 13 is 4 inches. 













THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


183 



Draw a straight line from lo down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 
establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 16 through 13. 

26 is half-way between D and V and 30 is half-way between Y and 26. 30 to 31 is i inch. 















































184 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


Draw a straight line from Q down through 31. O to 7 equals O to 6. 31 to 32 is | inch. 

Draw a straight line from 7 through 32 to the waist line and finish the side-seam from the waist 

line to O as represented. 

J to 18 is 5^ breast. 18 to 18B is ^ inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
the gorge from S through 18B. This line may be drawn throitgh a point a little higher or lower 
tha7i I ZD^ accordmg to taste or style ; but 18 is always breast below J, 

J to 19 is breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

21 to 2 iB is I inch for the V. 

Draw a straight line from 21 to 8. 24 is ^ inch less than half-way between 21 and 8. 

Draw a straight line for the other edge of the V from 24 to 21 B, 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from U2 to N2, the scye from U2 to F, and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

2iB to 23 is 4^ inches, but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented. 

12 to 27 is I inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 28. 28 to 

29 is 3^ inches. 

For this draft the flap for the hip pocket is 7 inches long and 4 inches wide. The ticket- 
pocket flap is 2 inches wide and the breast-pocket flap is ^ inch wider. 

From the edge to the buttons is i inch less than twice the distance from 9 to 10. 7 inches 

for this draft. 

Square back by the line that passes from 16 through 13 for the buttons, and corresponding 
buttonholes. 

10 to 25, the end of the roll, is i inch. 

Draw the crease line from 25 toward a point ^ inch in front of N2. 

The Collar. —Draw the crease line through a point ^ inch back of N2. The leaf is 
2^ inches wide at the end, and also at the back center, and the height of the stand is inch. 

The Sleeve is drafted the same as for Diagram 80. 








THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


185 


HEN IN DOUBT WHETHER YOUR CLIENT IS ROUND-SHOULDERED OR NOT, GIVE HIM THE 
BENEFIT OF THE DOUBT AND DRAFT HIS COAT IN THE REGULAR WAY. 







186 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


STORM COAT. 


DOUBLE=BREASTED, THREE=QUARTER BOX, WITH SLIGHTLY 

SHAPED CENTER SEAM. 




DIAGRAM 88. 


THE 

measures are as follows: 





9^ depth-of-scye. 


12 front-of-scye. 

40 breast 


17^ natural waist. 


13 first-over. 

37 waist. 


45 length, 


19 second-over. 




(Taken oil the Unciercoatk) 



Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, lo inches altogether for this draft; A to C 
is the natural waist; C to D is one-third natural waist; A to W is the length ; E is half-way 
between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 12^ inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up 
from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is inch less than the distance from A to G 
i6f inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is one inch more than the first-over, 14 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep for¬ 
ward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 20 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is yij breast and L to M is ly inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establishes N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is inch. Square up from P. This estab¬ 
lishes R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is f inch for this draft 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

C to C2 is I inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

Draw a straight line from L down through C2. This establishes W2. 

S to S2 is ^ inch. D to V is the same as A to S2. Draw a straight line from S2 down 
through V. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from U toward F. This establishes Q. 

Finish the backpart as represented, curving the center seam half-way between C and C2, 
and hollowing the side-seam y inch at the waist line. 

F to Y is ^ waist, 9^ inches for this draft. 

C2 to 2 equals B to Y. 2f inches for this draft. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2^ inches and 9 to 10 is 4 inches. 

2 to 11 is one-half full waist, ii to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is 4 inches. 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 
establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 16 through 13. 

26 is half-way between D and V and 31 is half-way between V and 26. Q to Q2 is ^ inch. 
Draw a straight line from half-way between Q and Q2 down through 31. O2 to 7 equals Q to 
6. Shape the side-seam as represented, hollowing ^ inch at the waist line. 










187 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 



J to 18 is breast. i8 to i8B is ^ inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
the gorge from S through i8B. This line may be drazvn through a point a little hiirher or lozver 
than according to taste or style; but i8 is alivays ^ breast below J. 























































































188 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


J to 19 is breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is f inch, or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, and the scye from 22 to F. 

The Peaked Lapel Roll. —Shape the gorge from N2 throtigh 2\, Peak the lapel, as rcpre. 
se7ited, by the broken line or to style or taste. 21 /(? 49 is 4 mches, or a little more or less. Draw 
the crease Ime from the end of the roll (2 inches below 10 for this draff) toward a pomt \ inch m 
front of N2. Shape the fro7it edge as represefitedfrom 23 through 10 and 13 to 16. 

12 to 27 is i inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 27 to establish 28, the front end of 
the hip pocket. 

From the edge to the buttons is i inch less than twice the distance from 9 to 10. 7 inches 

for this draft. 

Square back by the line that passes from 16 through 13 for the buttons and corresponding 
buttonholes. 

The Collar for the Peaked-Lapel Roll. —Draw the crease line on a strong curve, as 
represented., through a point inch back of N2. The leaf is 6 inches wide at the back center 
and at the €7td, and the height of the sta7id is i7ich. Shafe as represented by the broTce7i 
lines. 

The Shawl Roll. — Exte7id the go7ge to the edge as to 23 and shape the edge through 
49 as represented. 


THE gorge for THE PEAKED LAPEL. 

Diagram 89. —Draw a straight line from 21 to 8, 

21 to 48 is 3 inches. 

Square forward from 48 as to 47. 

Cut the pattern through from 21 to 48 and from 48 to 47. 

Pivot the cut-off piece at 48, spread the neck cut f inch, or a little more or less, from 21 to 
21B, and paste the piece into place as represented. 

21 to a7id 49 10 are the outlines of the pattern as drafted. 

Reshape the edge as represented from 49B to 10. 

21 to 48, 48 to 21B, 2\B to 49i5, 49^9 to 46 a7id 46 back to 48 are the outlines of the 7na7iipu- 
lated cut-off piece. 

THE gorge for THE SHAWL ROLL. 

Diagram 90.—Draw a straight line from 21 to 8. 

21 to 48 is 3 inches. 

Square forward from 48 as to 47. 

Cut the pattern through from-21 to 48 and from 48 to 47. 

Pivot the cut-off piece at 48, spread the neck cut f inch, or a little more or less, from 21 to 
21 B, and paste the jiiece into place as represented. 

21 23 and 23 to 10 are the outlhies of the pattern as drafted. 

Reshape the edge as represented from 23B to 10 . 

21 to 48, 48 to 2\B, 2\B to 2 iB, 2^B to 46 and 46 back to 48 are the outlines of the 7na7iipu- 
lated cut-off piece. 







THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


189 




DIAGRAM go. 






























190 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


FLY=FRONT PEAKED=LAPEL 0VER5ACK. 


HALF=BOX WITH WHOLE BACK OR WITH A STRAIGHT CENTER SEAH. 


DIAGRAM 91. 


measures are as follows : 

9 depth-of'Scye, 

I 7^ natural waist, 
43 length, 


11J front-of-scye, 
1 2^ first-over, 
i8| second-over. 


(^Taken on the Undr coat.') 


39 breast, 
35 waist. 


Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9^ inches altogether for this draft ; A to C is 
the natural waist; C to D is one-third natural waist; A to W is the length; E is half-way be. 
tween A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 11| inches for this draft, and F to G is G inch. Square up from G 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is ^ inch less than the distance from A to G, 
i6:f inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 13I- inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 19^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K pivoting at G. 

A to L is yig- breast and L to M is inch. 

Square up from ]\I and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is G inch. Square up from P. This estab¬ 
lishes R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

C to C2 is inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

Draw a straight line from A down through a point half-way between C and C2. This estab. 
lishes \V2. 

D to V is I inch more than A to S. Draw a straight line from S down through V. This 
establishes X. Draw a straight line for the bottom of the backpart from a point ^ inch below 
the broken line at W2 to the same distance above it as to 6, 

Shape the the back scye as represented from U toward F. 

E to Z is I inch. Draw a straight line from Z to G. This establishes 0 . 

P'inish the backpart as represented. 

If there is to be no center seam reduce ^ mch from A to W2 when cutting the material. 

P" to Y is ^ waist, 8|- inches for this draft. 

C2 to 2 equals Y to B, 3 inches for this draft. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2\ inches and 9 to 10 is 2 inches. 

2 to II is one-half full waist, i i to 12 is 2 inches and i 2 to 13 is the same as 9 to 10, 2 
inches for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 
establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 16 through 13. 













THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


191 



O to O2 is ^ inch. 26 is half-way between 1 ) and V, 31 is half-way between 26 and Y and 
32 is"half-way between 31 and V. Draw a straight line from X down through 32. O2 to 7 
equals Q to 6. Shape the side-seam as represented. 




































192 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


J to i8 is breast. i8 to i8B is ^ inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
the gorge from S through i8B. This line inay be drawii throicgh a point a little higher or lower 
than \ according to taste or style ; biit i8 is always ^ breast below J, 

J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U 2 to 22 is f inch, or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F, and the ' 
gorge from N2 to 21. Draw a straight line for the slant of the lapel as represented. 

21 to 23 is 2 inches, but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented. 

12 to 27 is ^ inch less than ^ waist. 27 to 28 is 2 inches. Square down from 28. 28 to 30 

is 4 inches and to 29 is 8 inches. 

A good slant and height for the breast pocket may be determined by drawing a straight 
line from 8 toward a point half-way between 5 and the line squared forward from E. 

From the edge to the buttons is f inch less than twice the distance from 9 to 10, 3^ inches 
for this draft. 

Square back by the line that passes from 16 through 13 for the buttons and corresponding 
buttonholes. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft extends to the breast line, 
toward a point ^ inch in front of N2. 

For a regular Chesterfield roll extend the gorge to i, which is ^ inch beyond 21, and 
slope the lapel as to 3. 

The Collar and Sleeve are drafted in the usual way. 











THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


I F YOU ARE UNCERTAIN WHETHER YOUR CLIENT IS EXTRA ERECT OR NOT, DO NOT 

YOUR DRAFT FROM THE NORMAL. 


193 


CHANGE 




194 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


SURTOUT AND NEWflARKET. 


THE SURTOUT. 

DIAGRAM 92. 

HE measures are as follows: 

9^ depth-of-scye, 

17^ natural waist, 

19^ fashionable waist, 

46 length, 

( Taken on the Undercoat.^ 

Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9! inches altogether for this draft; A to C is 
the natural waist; A to D is the fashionable waist; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, i if inches for this draft, and F to G is i .V inch. Square up and 
down from G as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is f inch less than the distance from A to G, 
i6f inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 13! inches altogether for this draft. Sweep for 
ward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 20.2 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is if inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is if inch. Square up from P. This estab¬ 
lishes O, R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is f inch for this draft 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from S to C to establish V. 

C to W is yig- breast and W to X is i inch, but may be a little more or less, according to 
taste or style. 

D to 50 if inch. Draw a straight line from A down through 50. A to 49 is the length. 

Shape the back skirt as represented, making the width f inch more from 49 to 48 than 
from 50 to the side-seam. 

The side-seam may be either less or more curved than to V, according to taste or style, 

F to Y is f waist, 8f inches for this draft. Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half 
way between Z and B. 

From X to 2 is the same as from Y to i, 2f inches for this draft. 2 to 3 is f waist and 3 
to 4 equals i to B, inch for this draft. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from Q toward F. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 

Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing f inch at the breast line, making the 
length to 6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower 
waist line and giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast and 8 to 9 is 2\ inches. 


Ilf front-of-scye, 
I2f first-over, 
i9f second-over. 


39 breast, 
35 waist. 










THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


195 



DIAGRAM 92. 











































196 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full waist, and 11 to i 2 is 2 inches. 

Square down from ii. This establishes 14. 14 to 15 is waist. Draw a straight 

line from 7 to 15. This establishes 16. Square forward from 15. 

J to 18 is ^ breast. 18 to 18B is ^ inch. Draw a straight line for the height and 

run of gorge from S through 18 13 . This line m.iy be drawn tJirongJi a point a little higher 

or lower than according to taste or style ; but 18 is aliuays t breast below J. 

J to 19 is y breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to 

establish 21. 

Draw a straight line from i 5 to 21 and shape the as represented, making it inch wide. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the packpart so that A lies on the sweep cast 

from I as at A2, 13 on the sweep cast from K as at B2, and N on the line squared up 

from H as at N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is I inch, or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F and 
the gorge from N2 to 21. 

Shape the front center as represented from 21 through 9 and 12, establishing 17. 

17 to 26 is 2\ inches, but may be a little more or less according to taste or fashion. 

Shape the bottom as represented from 7 through 15 to 26, rounding slightly under 17. 

Sweep forward from 21, pivoting at i 2. 

21 to 25 is 2 inches lohen the waist is of proportionate size, 4 inches less than the breast, 
but the distance should increase as the zvaist falls belozv I he proportionate at the rate of ^ inch 
for each inch of disproportion. For this draft the distance is 2 inches, the waist being propor¬ 
tionate, that is 4 inches less than the breast. 

Draw a straight line from 25 to 17 for the seam edge of the lapel. 

For this draft 25 to 23 is 3 inches, and 13 to 10 is 3! inches. These widths may, of course, 

and also the width from 17 to 26, be slightly increased or decreased, according to taste or 

fashion. 

Shape the lapel as represented. 

9 to the button line is f inch less than from 13 to 10, and 17 to the button line is f inch 
less than i 7 to 26. 

Draw a straight line for the crease from the end of the roll toward a point f inch 
beyond N2. 

I HE Collar. — Draw the crease line through a point \ inch back of N2. I he height of 
the stand is ly inch The leaf is if inch wide at the end for this draft and f inch wider at 

the back center, but may, of course, be a little wider or narrower, according to taste or fashion. 

The Skirt. —Drav.^ a straight cross-line on the drafting paper and place the fashionable 
waist line of the lapel and forepart over the line just as they lie on the draft. 

7 to 29 is the width of the bottom of the sidebody. Square down from 29. 29 to 30 is 

one-half natural waist, 8| inchp for this draft. Square back from 30. 30 to 31 is 3f inches 

always. 31 to 32 is the same as Y to i of the backpart, 2f inches for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from 29 down through 32. 29 to 33 is 18 inches always. 32 to 34 is 

f inch. 

Shape the fold edge of the plait as represented from 29 through 34 and 33. 29 to 35 is f 
inch more than the length of the back skirt. Add i inch for the turn-in, and shape the edge as 
represented. 

Square down through 26 by the lower waist line. 26 to 36 is f inch. Shape the top as 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


197 


represented from 15 to 36. 36 to 37 is ^ inch less than 29 to 35. Shape the bottom as 

represented. 

The Sleeve is drafted as explained for Diagram 5. 

THE NEWiTARKET. 

The Newmarket is the same as the Surtout, except that it is 4 inches or more longer, and 
has heavily-flapped hip pockets. 

The Flap. —12 to 24 is ^ waist, 24 to 27 is inch. Square down from 27. 28 to 38 is 

2^ inches and 29 to 39 is the same. 

Draw a straight line from 38 to 39. 

Draw a straight line down from 3 parallel with the spring-of-skirt line 29-33. This estab¬ 
lishes the point marked with a star. 

39 to 41 is 4 inches, and 38 to 42 is the same. 

hinish as represented. 




198 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


PALETOT. 


DIAGRAM 93. 

•yHE measures are as follows: 

9 depth-of-scye, 

17 natural waist, 

19^ fashionable waist, 

49 length, 

(^Taken on the Undercoat,^ 

Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9I inches altogether for this draft : A to C is 
the natural waist; A to D is the fashionable waist; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 11 inches for this draft, and F to G is lA inch. Square up from 
G as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is ^ inch less than the distance from A to G, 
15^ inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 13^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep for- 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes }. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, i8f inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M G inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is i i inch. Square up from P. This establishes 
O, R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is i inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

Draw a Straight line from S to C to establish V. 

C to W is breast and W to X is i inch, but may be a little more or less, according to 
taste or style. 

A to 49 is the length. Shape the backpart as represented, making the width I inch more 
from 49 to 48 than from D to the side seam. In cutting the material reduce j inch from A to 
35. The backpart may, of course, be shaped the same as for a Surtout. 

The side sea^n may be either less or more curved than to V, according to taste or style. 

F to Y is ^ waist, 8:^ inches for this draft. Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half¬ 
way between Z and B. 

From X to 2 is the same as from Y to i, 2 yV inches for this draft. 2 to 3 is waist and 
3 to 4 equals i to B, eleven sixteenths inch for this draft. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from Q toward F. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 

Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing inch at the breast line, making the length 

to 6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower waist line 

and giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2\ inches and 9 to 10 is 2 inches, but may be a little 

more or less, according to taste or fashion. 


TI ' front-of-scye, 
i2| first-over, 

17f second-over. 


37 breast, 
33 waist. 






THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


199 



DIAGRAM 93. 






































200 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one half full waist, ii to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is the 
same as from 9 to 10, 2 inches for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 as to 14. Square down from 13 as to 15. 
16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 16 up through 13. 

J to 18 is i breast. 18 to 18B is ^ inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
gorge from S through 18B. This line may be draivn through a point a little higher or 
lower tha 7 i 1 8 . 5 *, according to taste or style ; but 18 is always breast below J, 

J to 19 is breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

21 to 25 is ^ inch. 

Draw a straight line from G through 25. 25 to 23 is 2\ inches, or a little more or less, 

according to taste or fashion. The V at 25 is inch wide. Shape the front edge as represented 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at N 2. 
Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is f inch, or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F and the gorge 
from N2 to 25. 17 to 24 is i|- inch. 

Square down from i 2. 28 to 38 is ^ inch more than waist. Draw a straight line from 

38 back through 7. 

7 to 29 is the width of the bottom of the sidebody. Square down from 29. 29 to 30 is 

one-half natural waist, 8^ inches for this draft. Square back from 30. 30 to 31 is 3I inches 

always. 31 to 32 is th'e same as Y to i of the backpart, 2^^ inches for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from 29 down through 32. 29 to 33 is 18 inches always. 32 to 34 is 

I inch. 

Shape the fold edge of the plait as represented from 29 through 34 and 33. 29 to 35 is 

^ inch more than the length of the back skirt. Add i inch for the turn-in and shape the edge 
as represented. 

Shape the bottom as represented. 

12 to 27 is ^ inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 27. 42 to 43 is 3^ inches. 

Sweep from 42 and 43 for the top and bottom of the flap, pivoting at A, and make the length 
of the flap 7 inches, or a little more or less. 

From the edge to the buttons is f inch less than twice the distance from 9 to 10, 3b inches 
for this draft. 

Square back by the line that passes from 16 through 13 for the buttons and corresponding 
buttonholes. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft is ^ inch below 10, toward 
a point I inch beyond N2. 

The Collar. —Draw the crease line through a point ^ inch back of N2. The leaf, for this 
draft is if inch wide at the end and ^ inch wider at the back center, and the height of the stand 
is inch. 

The Sleeve is drafted the same as explained for Diagram 5. 









THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


201 


HE BACK SHOULD BE BUT VERY LITTLE FULLED TO THE SIDEBODY OVER THE BLADE, 

EXCEPT FOR ROUND-SHOULDERED FORMS. 











202 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


THE PADDOCK. 

{Sometimes called the ''Kennel'^ and sometimes the '■'Racing" Coat.) 


DIAGRAM 94. 

measures are as follows : 


loi depth-of-scye, 

18^ natural waist, 

2ol fashionable waist, 
52 length. 


13 front-of-scye, 

14 first-over, 

21 second-over, 


45 breast, 
42 waist. 


(Taken on the Undercoat.) 

Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 11 inches altogether for this draft; A to C is 
the natural waist ; A to D is the fashionable waist; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 13 inches for this draft, and F to G i ^ inch. Square up form G as 
represented. This establishes 40. 

Darw a straight line from A to G. B to H is 5^ inch less than the distance from A to G, 


18 inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, i 5 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep forward 
from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 22 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is inch. Square up from P. This estab¬ 
lishes R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

44 is half-way between E and R. Draw a straight line from 44 to H to establish Q. 

C to W is ^ breast and W to X is inch, but may be a little more or less, according to 
taste or style. 

A to 49 is the length. Square across from 49, Shape the backpart to the waist as repre¬ 
sented. // there is to be 710 ce 7 iter seam rednce ^ inch from A to D. Shape the back skirt as 
represented, reducing at the top from nothing at 47 to f inch at D, reducing ^ inch from D to 
49 as there is of course, no center seam, and making the width | inch more from 49 to 48 than 
from D to 47. 

F to Y is ^ waist, 10.^ inches for this draft. Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half 
way between Z and B. 

From X to 2 is the same as from Y to i, inch for this draft. 2 to 3 is ^ waist and 3 to 
4 equals i to B, | inch for this draft. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from Q toward ¥. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3, 

Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing ^ inch at the breast line, filling in f inch as to 
2B, making the length to 6 equal the side seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into 
the lower waist line and giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2.^ inches and 9 to 10 is 2 inches, but may be a little 
more or less, according to taste or fashion. 

C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full waist, ii to 12 is 2 incnes and i 2 to 13 is the 
same as from 9 to 10, 2 inches for this draft. 









THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


20S 





















































204 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


Draw a straight line from lo down through 13 as to 14. Square down from 13 as to 15. 
16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 16 up through 13. 

J to 18 is ^ breast. 18 to 18B is f inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
gorge from S through 18B. This line may be drawn throiigh a point a little higher or lower 
than according to taste or style ; but 18 is always b breast below J. 

J to 19 is breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

21 to 25 is ^ inch. 25 to 23 is 2| inches, or a little more or less, according to taste or fashion. 
The V at 25 is ^ inch wide. Shape the front edge as represented. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is I inch or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F and the 
gorge from N2 to 25. 

Square down from 12. 28 to 38 is i inch more than waist. Draw a straight line from 

38 through 7. 17 to 24 is I inch. 

7 to 29 is the width of the bottom of the sidebody. Square down from 29. 29 to 30 is one- 

half natural waist, 9^ inches for this draft. Square back from 30. 30 to 31 is 3|- inches always 

31 to 32 is the same as Y to i of the backpart, inch for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from 29 down through 32. 29 to 33 is 18 inches always. 32 to 34 is 

I inch. 

Shape the fold edge of the plait as represented from 29 through 34 and 33. 29 to 35 

is \ inch more than the length of the_^back skirt. Add i inch for the turn-in and shape the edge 
as represented. 

12 to 27 is ^ inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 27. This establishes 42. Square 
down from 7 and sweep back from 42, pivoting at A as to 43, for the top of the flap. 

From the edge to the buttons is f inch less than twice the distance from 9 to 10, 3^ inches 
for this draft. 

Square back by the line that passes from 16 through 13 for the buttons and corresponding 
buttonholes. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft is i inch below 10, toward 
a point ^ inch beyond N 2. 

The Collar is the same as for Diagram 93. 

Trace the sidebody through to another piece of drafting paper and cut out the forepart and 
skirt part {in one piece^ as out lifted by the heavy solid lines. Then cut the skirt part through 
from 7 to y6. 

TO COMPLETE THE PATTERN. 

Diagram 95.—Paste the sidebody and the back portion of the skirt together as represented 
by the shaded part. 

Place the sidebody-and-skirt portion to meet the forepart-and-skirt portion at 46, and to 
touch the underarm seam of the forepart as represented just below 50. 

Mark round the shaded part. 

Draw a straight line from 3 of the sidebody to 4 of the forepart. 

The star is half-way between 3 and 4. 

Draw a,straight line from the star to 46. This establishes 43B on the sweep. 

Draw a straight line from 4 through 43B. This gives the back-end slant of the flap. 

Reshape the underarm cut as represented from 3 to 43B. 

This manipulation produces a frock effect without stretching the sideseam. The extra size 
at 43B corresponds with the extra size in the skirt of a frock caused by sewing the top of the 
skirt full to the waist seam. 





THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 



DIAGRAM 95, 









































206 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


SQUARE=CUT INVERNESS. 


DIAGRAM 96. 


TH E measures are as follows: 


9 clepth-of-scye, 
I 7^ natural waist, 
45 length, 


I if front-of-scye, 
12 first-over, 
i8f second-over. 


39 breast, 
35 waist. 


(Taken on the Undercoat?) 

Square lines A W and A S, 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9^ inches altogether for this draft; A to C 
is the natural waist; C to D is one-third natural waist; A to W is the length ; E is half-way 
between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and \V. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, iif inches for this draft, and F to G is i 4 inch. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is i inch more than the distance from A to G, 
17^ inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to X is I inch. Square up from X. 

X to I is I inch more than the first-over, 13 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at X. This establishes J. 

X to K is I inch more than the second-over, iqf inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at X. 

A to L is breast and L to M is if inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is if inch. Square up from P. This 
establishes S. 

Draw a straight line from N to R. This establishes T. T to U is f inch. 

C to C2 is inch. Draw a straight line from from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

D to V is I inch more than B to P. Draw a straight line from P down through V, estab¬ 
lishing 25., Draw a straight line for the center seam from A down through a point f inch from 
C2. Draw a straight line for the bottom of the backpart from a point f inch below the broken 
line at W2 to the same distance above it as to 6. Finish the backpart as represented. 

If there is to be no center seam reduce f hich from A to W2 in cutting the material. 

F to Y is f waist, 8f inches for this draft. 

C2 to 2 is the same distance as from Y to B, 3 inches for this draft. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast and 8 to 9 is 2\ inches. 9 to 10 is 2f inches for this draft, 

but may be a little more or less, according to taste or fashion. 

2 to II is one-half full waist, ii to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is the same as 9 to 
10, 2I inches for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 
establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 16 through 13. 

26 is half-way between D and V and 32 is half-way between V and 26. 25 to Q is ^ natural 

waist. Draw a straight line for the side-seam from Q through 32 and make the length to 7 
equal the side-seam length of the backpart. 

J to 18 is breast. 18 to 18B is ^ inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
the gorge from S through 18B. This linezuay be drawn through a point a little higher or loiuer 
tha 7 i 18A’, according to taste or style; but 18 is ahvays \ breast beloiv J. 














THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


DIAGRAM 96. 

J to 19 Is 1 breast and 19 to 20 is 1 inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to o to 
establish 21 . ^ 

Cut out the backpart. 





























































208 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at hi, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along the shoulder seam to the line squared up from X. This establishes 22. 

Shape the scye as represented from 22 through X to Q. Shape the gorge from N2 to 21. 

21 to 23 is 2\ inches for this draft, but may be a little more or less, according to taste or 
fashion. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented. 

12 to 27 is ^ inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 27 as to 28. 28 to 42 is 2 inches. 

Square up and down from 42 for an up-and-down pocket opening, and make the opening from 7 
to 9 inches long. 

From the edge to the buttons is i inch less than twice the distance from 9 to 10, 4 
inches for this draft. 

Square back by the line that passes from 16 through 13 for the buttons and corresponding 
buttonholes, 

The Collar.— Square each way from Z. Z to i is inch more than the length of the 
gorge. 

1 to 3 is I inch. 

4 is half-way between Z and i. 

Square down from 3. 

Z to 5 is I ^ inch and 5 to 17 is 2f inches. 

3 to 24 is 3f inches. 

Shape as represented, hollowing the seam-edge i inch at 4, springing the leaf out i inch 
at 17, the back center, and curving the crease line to a point | inch from i. 

The front finish and the collar 7 nay be the sa 7 ne as for any smgle-brcasted flyfro7it over sack. 

THE CAPE. 

Diagram 97.—Place the backpart and the forepart on the drafting paper in a closing 
position at Q as represented, and make a point i inch above E as at i. 

Place the backpart in a closing position with the forepart at the shoulder seam, and mark 
along the shoulder seam of the backpart as to U. 

Mark along the gorge of the forepart from N2 to 21, across the lapel from 21 to 23 
and down the front edge. 

Draw a straight line from i to U. 

2 is half-way between i and U and 2 to 3 is | inch. 

Shape the side-seam as represented from U through 3 and i. 

Square down from X. 

A to 4 is I inch. 

From A through N2 to 5 is the over-shoulder length, 32^ inches for this draft. 

Sweep back from 5, pivoting at 4. This establishes 6. 

6 to the notch at 7 is 11 inches. 

Square forward from 5. 

Finish as represented, rounding the bottom slightly between 5 and 8. 

The cape is left free below the notch at 7. 

The buttons are 3 inches from the edge. 






THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


209 



DIAGRAM 97. 


















































210 


THE'NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


CURVED=SHOULDER INVERNESS. 


DIAGRAM 98. 

the measures are as follows: 


9y depth-of-scye, 
I 7I natural waist, 
44 length, 


12 front-of-scye, 

13 first-over, 

18^ second-over, 


40 breast, 
36 waist. 


( Taken on tJie Undercoat^ 

Square lines A W and A S. 

A-to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9I inches altogether for this draft; A to C is 
the natural waist ; C to D is one-third natural waist ; A to W is the length; E is half-way be¬ 
tween A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 12 inches for this draft. F to G is G inch. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is i inch more than the distance from A to G, 
I 7 I inches for this draft. Square up from H. G to X is i inch. Square up from X. 

X to I is I inch more than the first-over, 14 inches for this draft. Sweep foward from I, 
pivoting at X. This establishes J. 

X to K is I inch more than the second-over, 19^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at X. 

A to L is yV breast and L to M is G inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is G inch. Square up from P. This establishes 
R and S. 

C to C2 is I inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

D to V is G inch more than A to S. Draw a straight line from S down through V, estab¬ 
lishing 25. Draw a straight line for the center seam from A down through a point ^ inch from 
C2. Draw a straight line for the bottom of the backpart from a point inch below the broken 
line at \\ 2 to the same distance above it as at 6. Finish the backpart as represented, curving 
the shoulder seam through R. Draw a straight line from I to B to establish U. 

If there is to be no ce 7 iter scant 7 'edtice j inch fi'oni A to JV2 ivhen cutting the materiaL 

P' to Y is ^ waist, 9 inches for this draft. 

C2 to 2 is the same distance as from Y to B, 3 inches for this draft 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast and 8 to 9 is 2J inches, 9 to 10 is 2^ inches for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or fashion. 

2 to II is one-half full waist, ii to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is the same as 9 to 10, 2 h 
inches for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 
establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 16 through 13. 

26 is half-way between D and V and 32 is half-way between V and 26. 25 to O is J natural 

waist. Draw a straight line for the side seam from Q through 32, and make the length to 7 
equal tha side-seam length of the backpart. 

J to 18 is y breast. 18 to 18B is i inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of the 
gorge from S through 18B. This line may be drawn through a point a little higher or lower 
than i8i5, according to taste or stylebut 18 is always ^ breast belozv J. 











the new standard coat system. 



211 


diagram 98. 


























































































212 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2, and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2 

U2 to 22 is inch, or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 through F to Q 
and the gorge from N2 to 21. 

21 to 23 is 2^ inches for this draft, but may be a little more or less, according to 
taste or style. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented. 

12 to 27 is ^ inch less than waist. Square down from 27 as to 28. 28 to 42 is 2 
inches. Square up and down from 42 for an up and-down pocket opening, and make the 
opening from 7 to 9 inches long. 

From the edge to the buttons is i inch less than twice the distance from 9 to 10, 4 
inches for this draft. 

Square back by the line that passes from t 6 through 13 for the buttons and corre¬ 
sponding buttonholes. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll toward a point i inch beyond N2. 

The Collar is drafted in the usual way. 

The front finish and collar may be the sa?ne as for Diagram 96. 

THE CAPE. 

Diagram 99.—Place the backpart and the forepart in a closing position at Q as shown by 
the broken lines. 

Apply the width of the top of the backpart to N2 and measure the length, 30 inches for 
this draft, to 5. 

Sweep back from 5 for the bottom, pivoting at N2. 

Point B3 is the same as B3 on Diagram 98. 

Shape the shoulder and side-seam as represented from N2 through 22 and B3. 

6 to the notch at 7 is 4 inches. 

Shape from 7 to the sweep as represented. 

Shape the front from N2 so as just to miss the crease and touch the button line of the 
forepart. 







THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


213 



-— 


DIAGRAM 99. 


/ vO 



























-214 


THE NEW STANDARD - COAT SYSTEM. 


INVERNESS WITH SLEEVES. 

DIAGRAM loo. 


measures are as follows; 


depth-of-scye, 
1 7^ natural waist, 
44 length, 


12 front-of-scye. 

13 first-over, 

18^ second-over, 

^/le undercoat.) 


( Taken on 


40 breast, 
36 waist. 


Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, qf inches altogether for this draft ; A to C is 
the natural waist; C to D is one-third natural waist ; A to W is the length ; E is half-way be¬ 
tween A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front of-scye, 12 inches for this draft, and b to G is 1 i inch. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is f inch more than the distance from A to G 
17^ inches for this draft. Square up from IF G to X is f inch. Square up from X. 

X to I is I inch more than the first-over, 14 inches for this draft. Sweep forward from I, 
pivoting at X. This establishes J. 

X to K is I inch more than the second-over, 19^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at X. 

A to L is breast and L to M if inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is if inch. Square up from P. This establishes 
R and S. 

C to C2 is f inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

D to V is I inch more than E to R. Draw a straight line from R down throucrh V estab- 
lishing Q. Draw a straight line for the center scam from A down through a point f inch from 
C2. Draw a straight line for the bottom of the backpart from a point f inch below the broken 
line at W2 to the same distance above it as at 6. R to U is f inch. Finish the backpart as 
represented, curving the shoulder seam through U into the side-seam at Q. 

If there is to be 710 ceiiter sea 77 i reduce f mch from A to JV2 whe 7 i cuttuig the inaterial^ 

F to Y is f waist, 9 inches for this draft. 

C2 to 2 is the same distance as from Y to B, 3 inches for this draft, 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast and 8 to 9 is 2f inches. 9 to 10 is 2f inches for this draft, 
but may be a little more less, according to taste or fashion. 

2 to 11 is one-half full waist, ii to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is the same as 9 to 10, 2f 
nches for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 
establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 16 through 13. 

26 is half-way between D and V and 32 is half-way between V and 26. Draw a straight line 
for the side-seam from O through 32 and make the length to 7 equal the side-seam length of 
the backpart from Q to 6. 

Shape the side-seam as represented from U to run just below P into the straight line down 
from Q through 32, R to Z is ^ inch. Shape the scye as represented to G, sinking it ^ 
inch below F. 












THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


215 




DIAGRAM loo. 


































216 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


J to i8 is breast, i8 to i8B is ^ inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of the 
gorge from S through i8B. This line may be drawn through a point a little higher or lower 
tha7i \%B, according to taste or style; but i8 is always breast below J. 

J to 19 is I breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 
21 to 25 is ^ inch. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at N2. 
Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U 2. 

Extend the straight cross line squared from E of the backpart. U2 to 22 is i inch. 

Shape the scye as represented from 22 to G, and the gorge from N2 to 25. 

In cutting the 7naterial add ^ inch for a sea 7 n from U to Z and fro 7 n U2 to 22. 25 to 23 

is 2 inches, but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented. 

12 to 27 is \ inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 27 as to 28. 28 to 42 is 2 inches. 

Square up and down from 42 for a vertical pocket opening and make the opening from 7 to 9 
inches long. 

From the edge to the buttons is i inch less than twice the distance from 9 to 10, 4 inches 
for this draft. 

Square back by the line that passes from 16 through 13 for the buttons and corresponding 
buttonholes. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll toward a point \ inch beyond N2. 

The Collar is drafted in the usual way. 

The front finish and collar 7 nay be the sa 7 ne as for Diagra 7 }i 96. 

THE CAPE. 

Diagram ioi. —Place the backpart and the forepart in a closing position at Q (as they were 
drafted) as shown by the broken lines. The additions for the seams also are shown from U to 
Z and from 22 to U2. 

Apply the width of the top of the backpart to N2 and measure the length, 30 inches for 
this draft to 5. 

Sweep back from 5 for the bottom, pivoting at N2. 

Point B3 is the same as B3 on Diagram 100. 

Shape the shoulder and side-seam as represented from N2 through B3. 

6 to the notch at 7 is 4 inches. 

Shape from 7 to the sweep as represented 

Shape the front from N2 so as just to miss the crease and touch the button line of the 
forepart. 
















THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


217 























218 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


THE SLEEVE. 

The sleeve is drafted by the size of the arm hole, Z to 22 of Diagram 100, as measured exactly 
on the drafted line of the scye, no allowance being made for 77 taking. 

Diagram 102.— Square lines A J and A Z. 

A to B is the same as E to B of the backpart (Diagram 100) 4^ inches for this draft. 

B to C is b ii^ch instead of | inch as for Diagram 5, for the reason that the scye is ^ inch 
deeper than usual. 

Square forward from C. 

A to Z is inch less than one-half scye, 9 inches for this draft. The A hich reduction 
is 77 iade becaiise less top fulhiess is required, the sleeve bei 7 ig covered by the cape a 7 id no f 7 ill 
ness, therefore, beiftg 7 tecessary for style effect. 

Square down from Z. This establishes D. 

D to E is I inch always. 

Square back from E. 

D to F is one-third scye, i. e., the scye size by the scale of thirds on the ordinary tailor’s 
square. 

Draw a straight line from F to A to establish G. 

Square up fiom G. 

G to H is the same as G to A. 

Z to I is I inch less than one-eighth scye, i. e., the scye size by the scale of eighth 
on the square. 

Draw a straight line from I to D. 

Shape the top of the upperpart as represented from A through H and I to D. 

Apply the width of back to A and measure the outside length (34 inches for this draft) to 
J, allowing nothing for making, square across from J as to K and go up i^ inch to L ; or apply 
the inside length, if preferred (20 inches for this draft), from E to L, go down i|- inch from L 
as to K, and square across from K. 

L to M is inches, or a trifle more or less, according to taste or style, ge7ierally 2 
mches 7 nore tha 7 i the band size of the shirt ctiff. 

N is I inch less than half-way from E to L. 

Square across from N. 

Draw a straight line from B to M to establish O. 

N to P is f inch, more or less, according to style, 

O to Q is i^ inch, more or less, according to style. 

A to R is i^ inch. 

Shape the underpart as represented. 





THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


219 



Is 

K 


DIAGRAM 102 
























































L>20 


THE NEW STANDARD'COAT SYSTEM. 


THE RAGLAN. 


DIAGRAM 103. 


'^HE measures are as follows: 


9* 

18 

44 


depth-of-scye, 
natural waist, 
length, 

( 


12 front-of scye, 
13^ first-over, 
i8f second over. 
Taken on the Undercoat.^ 


41 breast, 
38 waist. 


Square lines A W and A S. 

A to B is 4 inch more than the depth-of-scye, 10 inches altogether for this draft; A to C is 
the natural waist; C to D is one-third, natural waist; A to W is the length; E is half-way 
between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 12 inches for this draft, and E to G is inch. Square up from G 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to ll is f inch more than the distance from A to G^ 
I/finches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 14^ inches for this draft. Sweep forward from I, 
pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, iqf inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to IM is if inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is if inch. Square up from P. This 
establishes R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to ff and draw another from I to B. This establishes U. 

R to Z is I inch. D to V is i inch more than R to Z. Draw a straight line from Z down 
through V. Draw a straight line for the center seam from A down through a point f inch 
from C2. Draw a straight line for the bottom of the backpart from a point f inch below the 
broken line at W2 to the same distance above it as at 6. Draw a straight line from T to G to 
establish O. Finish the backpart as represented, curving the shoulder seam from N through U 
and R to Q. 

If there is to be no center seam reduce f inch fro 7 n A to W2 when cutting the material. 

F to Y is f waist, qf inches for this draft. ^ 

C2 to 2 is the same distance as from Y to B. 2f inches for this draft, 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast and 8 ter 9 is 2f inches. 9 to 10 is 2\ inches for this draft, 

but may be a little more or less, according to taste or fashion 

2 to 11 is one-half full waist, ii to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is the same as 9 to 10, 2\ 

inches for this' draft. 

Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 to establish 14. Square down from 13 to 
establish 15. 16 is half-way between 14 and 15. Draw a straight line from 16 through 13. 

26 is half-way between D and V and 32 is half-way between V and 26. Draw a straight 
line for the side-seam from Q through 32 and make the length to 7 equal the side-seam length 
of the backpart from Q to 6. 

J to 18 is i breast. 18 to 18B is ^ inch. Draw a straight kne for the height and run of 










THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


221 



DIAGRAM 103. 













































































THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


222 


the gorge from S through i8B. This Ime may be drawn throtigh a point a little higher or lower 
than \ %B, accordi^tg to taste of style ; bnt i8 is always \ breast beloiv J. 

J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Drav/ a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 

21. 21 to 25 is ^ inch. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

G to 34 is I inch. Draw a straight line from 34 to N2. 35 is half-way between 34 and N2. 

Draw a straight line from 35 to U2, establishing 36. 36 to 37 equals 36 to 35. 

Shape the shoulder seam and scye as represented from N2 through 37 and a point half¬ 
way between G and 34 to O, sinking f inch below the breast line as to the double arrow- 
headed line. 

The forearm notch is i inch above the breast line. 

Square forward from N2. N2 to N3 is f inch. Shape the gorge as represented from N3 
to 25 and make the distance 2^ inches, or a little more or less, from 25 to 23. 

Shape the front edge and the bottom as represented. 

12 to 27 is ^ inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 27 as to 28. 28 to 42 is 2 inches 

The top of the cross pocket is from 6^ to 7 inches long. The vertical opening is from 7 
to 9 inches long. The curved pocket-top is swept as representd, with A as a pivot, but may 
be placed a little higher if preferred. 

The Collar is drafted the same as for a Chesterfield. 

Cut out the forepart and also cut out the shaded shoulder-piece and lay it aside to be added 
to the sleeve. 


THE SLEEVE. 

The sleeve is drafted by twice the size of the scye from R to the forearm notch. 10 
inches for Diagram 103. Twice 10 inches, or 20 inches, is therefore the scye size used iyi producing 
the following Diagram ; 

Diagram 104.—Square lines A J and A Z. 

A to B is the same as E to B of Diagram 103. 5 inches for this draft. 

Square across from B. 

A to Z is one-half scye size, 10 inches for this draft. 

Square down from Z. This establishes D. 

D to E is f inch always. 

Square back from E. 

D to F is one-third scye size—for this draft 20 on ^the scale of thirds on the ordinary 
tailor’s square. 

Draw a straight line from F to A to establish G. 

Square up from G. 

G to H is 5 inch less than G to A. 

Draw a straiMit line from A throuorh H. 

o o 

Take the shoulder-piece that was cut from between the backpart and forepart (Diagram 103) 
and place its straight edge on the line drawn from A through H, its point U2 touching A of 
this draft. Mark round the shoulder-piece and remove it. The shaded part of the diagram 
represents the shoulder-piece placed as explained. 

From the shoulder-piece to 38 is ^ inch. 

Shape the back shoulder seam as represented from N2 through 38 to A. 




THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


223 


37 to 41 is f inch. 

N2 to 39 is ^ inch. 

Shape the front shoulder seam as represented 
from 39 through a point half-way between 37 and 
41 to D. 

Apply the width of the backpart to A and 
measure the outside length to J (35 inches for this 
draft) allowing nothing for making, square across 
from J as to K and go up inch to L ; or apply 
the inside length (20 inches for this draft) from 
E to L, go down inch from L to K and square 
across from K. 

L to M is 7 inches, or a little more or less. 

N is I inch less than half-way from E to L. 

Square across from N. 

Draw a straight line from B to M to estab¬ 
lish O. 

O 10 O is li inch. 

N to P is I inch, more or less, according to 
style. 

A to R is inch. 

Finish as represented. 



hil 

K' 


DIAGRAM 104. 




























224 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


THE SHOULDER CAPE. 

{^Drafted by an Overcoat Pattern.') 


DIAGRAM 105. 


l^RAW the straight line A B. 

Place the backpart to touch the line at the top as at A and to be f inch from it at the 
waist as from C to C2. 

Place the forepart in a closing position with the backpart from the gorge to the most 
prominent part of the shoulder as to E. 

The broken lines show the adjustment. 

Mark along the gorge and down the front edge, and make a point at the notch for the 
collar as at 21. 

U to J is I inch. Draw a straight line from J to touch the front, of the scye, as to O on 
the breast line. 

K is half-way between O and J. 

Make a point at the end of the roll and prick through to mark the button line. 

Remove the pattern. 

Draw the crease line. 

The star is I inch from the shoulder-seam of the backpart. 

I is half-way between J and the shoulder-seam of the forepart. 

Draw a straight line from the star to I. 

Draw a straioflit line from A to 21. 

L is half-way between A and 21. 

A to B is the length. 

Sweep for the bottom from B, pivoting at L. 

Shape the gorge toward the point at which the crease-line of the forepart crosses the button 
line and shape the front edge ^ inch back of the button line as represented by the heavy solid 
line. If the cape is intended to button it should follow the gorge and the front edge of the 
forepart. 

Draw a straight line from the star through K as to M and draw another from 21 through 
I as to N. ^ 

Cut out the cape as drafted from A to B, B to the front edge, and up the front edge and 
along the gorge to A. Then cut the pattern through from star to I and from I to N. 

See the next diagram. 









THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


225 



diagram 105. 
















226 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


THE SHOULDER CAPE. 

( Co7iti7i7ied^ 


DIAGRAM I o 6. 

I3LACE the two parts of the pattern to touch at I and to lap each other at the bottom as 
^ from N to N until the neck points spread 2 inches at the star. 

Paste the two parts together. 

Cut the pattern through from I to K and from K to M. 

See the next diagram. 









THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


227 



DIAGRAM io6. 







■228 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


THE SHOULDER CAPE. 

( Coiitiniied.^ 


DIAGRAM 107. 


I^LACE the two parts together at K and to lap each other at the bottom as from M to M 
until the scye cut (I to K, Diagram 105) spreads 2 inches at the star. 

Paste the two parts together. 

Shape the side seam of the backpart as represented to O. The exact location of O is unim- 
porta 7 it, the shape of the side-seam being chiefly a matter of taste. 

Shape the side-seam of the forepart as represented from I to the bottom, reducing about 2 
inches from O to P. The two seam-edges, I to O and I to yV, should have the same curve. 
See the next diagrai^i. 


y 








THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 



DIAGRAM 107. 











230 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


THE SHOULDER CAPE. 

{Cone hide ci^) 


DIAGRAM io8. 

I3RACE the two parts together in a closing position at O P, and shape the bottom 
* represented. 










the new standard coat system 


231 



DIAGRAM ro8. 





























































232 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


A SIMPLE AND HANDSOME HOOD. 


DIAGRAM 109. 



Star to B is ^ breast. 
B to C is li inch. 


each way from the star. 


D is half-way between star and C. 

D to E is if inch. 

Square up from E. 

E to F is breast. 

Star to G is breast. 

Draw a straight line from G to F and square down from F by the line just drawn to 
establish H. 

Star to I is the length, say 17 inches. 

A good rule for the length is the size of the wearer s hat plus 10 inches. 

Square the cross line from I as represented. 

I to J is 9 inches. 

J up to K is I inch. 

Draw a straight line from I through K. 

Square down from C, locating L. 

I is half-way between B and H. 

F to N is one-third way to M. 

Shape as represented, filling in about \ inch at M and hollowing one-half as much at N. 
Star to F is the neck. 

Star to I is the center seam. 

I to L is the bottom and goes to the fold of the material. 

A cord is run along the edge from F to L and back to F. 







THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 



DIAGRAM 109, 


























234 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 



JT IS BETTER TO CUT A COLLAR I INCH TOO LONG THAN ^ INCH TOO 


y 


SHORT 







THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


235 


PART HI. 

CLERICAL, MILITARY AND LIVERY OVERCOATS AND 
UNDERCOATS AND THE SPANISH OR 

MILITARY CAPE. 


236 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 



THE CASSOCK. 

THE BODY PART. 


measures are as follows: 


DIAGRAM I I o. 


9^ depth-of-scye, 

I 7 ^ natural waist, 

19^ fashionable waist, 
62 length. 


1-2^ front-of-scye, 
13I first-over, 

19^ second-over. 


42 breast, 
39 waist. 


Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is I inch more than the depth-of-scye, 10 inches altogether for this draft ; A to C is 
the natural waist; A to D is the fashionable waist ; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, i2| inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up from 
G, as represented. This establishes 40, 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is i inch less than the distance from A to G, 17 
inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 14^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep for¬ 
ward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 20^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is i| inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is inch. Square up from P. This establishes 
Q,‘ R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to II. This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this draft, but 
may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from S to D to establish 

C to W is yig breast and W to X is i .1 inch, but may be a little more or less, according to 
taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from L down through C to establish D2 and draw another from M 
through D2 to obtain the run of the center of the back skirt. 

Draw a straight line from L down through X to establish 32 and to obtain the run of the 
plait edge of the back skirt. 

Shape the backpart as represented. 

The side seam may be either less or more curved than to V, according to taste or style. 

F to Y is ^ waist, 9I inches for this draft. Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half¬ 
way between Z and B. 

From X to 2 is the same as from Y to i, 2^^ inches for this draft. 2 to 3 is I waist and 3 
to 4 equals i to B, inch for this draft. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from Q toward F. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 

Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing I inch at the breast line, making the length to 
6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower waist line and 
giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 









THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


237 



B to 8 I.s one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2i inches and 9 to 10 is f inch. 

C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full waist, ii to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is | inch. 
Draw a straight line from 10 down through 13 as to 24. Square down from 13. 

13 to 25 is 12 inches. 26 is half-way between 25 and 2.1. Draw a straight line from 
26 up through 13. 'I'his establishes 16. 
















































238 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


Square down from ii. This establishes 14. 14 to 15 is waist. Draw a straight line 

from 7 through 15. 

J to 18 is breast. 18 to 18B is i inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
gorge from M through 18B. 

J to 19 is ^breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 
Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from 11 as at 
N2. Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is f inch, or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F and the 
gorge from N2-to 21. 

21 to 23 is I inch. 

Shape the front edge from 23 through 10 to 13 as represented. 

The Collar.— Square each way from 27. 

27 to 28 is ^ inch more than the length of the gorge, io|- inches for this draft. 

27 to 29 is if inch and 28 to 31 is the same. 

39 to 30 is f inch. 

Shape as represented, rounding the seam edge toward a point ^ inch above 27. 

THE BACK SKIRT. 

Diagram i i i. —Extend the line drawn from M through D2 and apply the length from 
A to 33. 

Sweep forward for the bottom from 33, pivoting at A. 

Continue the line drawn from L through 32. This establishes 34. 

37 is half-way between D2 and 33. Square back from 37. 

D2 to 38 is i^ inch and 37 to 39 and 39 to 41 and 33 to 50 are each the same. 

32 to 35 and 34 to 36 are each i^ inch. 

Finish as represented. 

THE skirt. 

Diagram 112. —Extend the waist line back and make 7 to 42 equal the width of the 
bottom of the sidebody, 5:^^ inches for this draft. 

Square down from 42. 42 to 43 is one-half the natural waist, 8f inches for this draft. 

Square back from 43. 

43 to 44 is 3f inches always. 44 to 45 equals X to 2 of Diagram 110, 2 y’^ inches for 
this draft. 

Draw a straight line from 42 down through 45. 

42 to 46 equals 32 to 34 of the back skirt. 

42 to 47 is i^ inch and 46 to 48 is the same. 

Draw a straight line from 16 (see Diagram 110) down through 17 for the front edge. 

I 7 to 49 is I inch less than 42 to 46. 

Finish as represented. 

The Sleeve is drafted the same as for Diagram 5. 





THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


239 






















240 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


OFFICER’S SERVICE BLOUSE, 

U. S. ARMY, 

DIAGRAM I I 3 . 

measures are as follows : 


8f depth-of-scye. 

11 front-of-scye, 

1 38 breast, 

I 7 natural waist. 

12I first-over, 

33 waist. 

27 length. 

17! second-over, 

1 39I seat. 



The length is taken to the level of the crotch and is termed technically, the ''crotch lettgth. " 

Square lines A \V and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9J inches altogether for this draft ; A to 
C is the natural waist ; C to D is one-third natural waist; A to W is the length ; E is half 
way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, ii inches for this draft, and F to Gis inch. Square up 
from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is ^ inch less than the distance from A to 
G, 15! inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 134 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, i8| inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and Gand O to P is if inch. Square up from P. This establishes 
R and S. 

Draw a straight line from O through a point f inch beyond R. Draw a straight line from 
N to H for the run of the shoulder-seam, establishinor T and U. 

C to C2 is f inch. Draw a straight line from A to C2 for the center-seam and to es¬ 
tablish B3. 

Draw a straight line from L down through C2. This establishes D2 and \V2. 

B to O2 is f inch less than f breast. C to X is f breast. Draw a straight line from 
O2 down through X, establishing V and 6. 

The star is half-way between E and R. Draw a straight line from the star to G. 

Shape the scye as represented from U toward F. This establishes O. 

Finish the backpart as represented. 

F to Y is f waist, 81 inches for this draft, Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half 
way between Z and B. 

X to 2 is the same distance as from Y to i, 2^^ inches for this draft. 

2 to 16 is 1 waist and 16 to 3 is | inch. 3 to 4 equals i to B. 5 is half-way between 
R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 down through a point half-way between 3 and 4. 
This establishes 23. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2I inches and 9 to 10 is if inch for extra breast 
fullness, 10 being the front center. 

C2 to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full waist, 11 to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 13 is 
inch. This i 7 ich extra is to be siippresscd by the waist V. 








THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


241 



67 66 65 


DIAGRAM II3 


Square down from 13, this establishes 17 and 14. 

17 to 25 equals 13 to 11, 3^ inches for this draft. D2 to V and 25 to 26 is ^ inch less than 
one-half full seat. 

Draw a straight line from 2 down through 26. Shape the side-seam as represented from 






















































242 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


Q to 2, reducing ^ inch at the breast line, and make the length from 2 to 7 equal the length of 
the backpart from X to 6. 

23 to 24 is ^ inch. Draw a straight line from 3 down through 24. 23 to 303 is i|- inch. 

Draw a straight line from 4 down through 303. 

Finish the sidebody as represented, curving the bottom to a point ^ inch above the straight 
line as to 15. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, making the length from 4 to 333 
equal that from 3 to 15. 

J to 18 is breast. 18 to 18 B is f inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
the gorge from A through 18B. 

J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

29 is halfway between 20 and 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at N2. 
Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is f inch, or a little more or less. Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 
22 to N2. 

4 to 28 is ^ inch more than waist. 29 is half-way between 20 and 21. Draw a straight 
line from 29 through 28, establishing 36. 

35 is ^ inch more than half-way from 36 to the breast line, 36 to 37 is | inch when the 
waist is not more than 4 inches smaller than the breast, but the distance is to be increased 
inch for each inch the waist is smaller than proportionate, z e., more than 4 inches smaller than 
the breast. For this draft the increase is inch, making the distance y^y inch from 36 to 37 (f 
and y^y inch). Sweep forward from 37 pivoting on the breast line at the point where it is crossed 
by the line drawn from 36 through 28. 36 to 38 equals 36 to 37. Shape the V as represented 

Sweep forward from 38, pivoting as before. 38 to 39 equals 37 to 21. Shape the gorge 
as represented from N2 to 37 and from 36 through 39. 

Sweep forward from 333, pivoting at 21. This establishes 65. Shape the bottom as repre¬ 
sented from 333 through 65. 

Shape the front center as represented from 39 through 10 and 13 to 65. Doth the buttons 
azid the eyes of the bottoziholes follow this line. 

28 to 30 is I inch. 30 to 31 is ^ inch and 30 to 32 is the same. 30 to 33 is i natural waist. 
34 is I inch below the breast line. Shape the V as represented. The width of the Vplus 2 
seazns is ly izich^for zuhich the inch was addedfz'om 12 to i 

13 to 41 equals 14 to 65. Draw a straight line to 41 from a point ^ inch below 4. 

4 to' 200 is jig- waist. Square down from 200, establishing 42. 42 to E2 is 6| inches. 43 

is half-way between 42 and E2. Square by the waist line, down through E2 and 43. 43 to 44 
is 2f inches. E2 to 45 is if inch and 42 to 46 is the same. E2 to 47 is 7! inches and 42 to 48 
is the same. Shape the patch and the flap as represented. 

49, the top button (and buttonhole) is inch below 39. Space on the front center line for 
five buttons between and including points 41 and 49. This establishes 50, the second button 
from the gorge. 

G to 51 is ^ inch more than 10 to 50. Draw a straight line from 51 to 50. 51 to 52 is G 

inch. 52 to 53 is inches. 54 is half-way between 52 and 53. Draw straight lines from 52,* 
54 and 53 down parallel with the front edge. 52 to 57 is if inch and 53 to 56 is the same. 54 
to 55 is 2f inches. 53 to 58 is 6f inches and 52 to 59 is the same. Shape the patch and the 
flap as represented. 












THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


243 


39 to 6o is f inch and lo to 62, 13 to 64 and 65 to 66 are each the same. Shape the front edge 

of the left side as represented from 60 through 62 and 64 to 66. 

60 to 61 is 4 inch and 62 to 63, 64 to 13B and 66 to 67 are each the same. Shape the front 
edge of the right side as represented from 61 through 63 and 13B to 67. 

68 is half-way between 20 and 29, Draw a straight line from 68 to the star. The shoulder 
loop finishes 2 inches wide at the scye and one-half as wide at the button end. 

The underarm seam is closed to the botto 7 n. 

The Collar. —Square both ways from i. i to 4 is the length of the gorge from A2 
through N2 to 37 and from 38 to 39, following the edge and deducting nothing for seams. 

Square up from i and 4. 

I to 2 is if inch and 2 to 3 is the same. 

4 to 5 is if inch and 5 to 6 is the same. 

7 is half-way between i and 4. 

Square across from 7, establishing 9 and ii. 

7 to 8 is f inch and 9 to 10 and ii to 12 are each the same. 

Shape as represented, carrying the seam edge to a point ^ inch above i. 

The Sleeve is drafted the same as for Diagram 5. 




244 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


OFFICER’S DRESS BLOUSE, U. S. A. 


measures are as follows : 


DIAGRAM I 14. 


9 depth-of-scye, 
I natural waist, 
27 length, 


11 front-of-scye, 
i2| first-over, 

I 7 ^ second-over. 


39 breast, 
32 waist, 

40 seat. 


The length is take 7 i to the level of the crotch and is termed technically, the crotch lerigth. ” 

Square both ways from A. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9^ inches altogether for this draft; A to C is 
the natural waist; C to D is one-third natural waist; A to W is the length ; E is half-way between 
A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and W. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 11 inches for this draft, and F to G is i 4 inch. Square up from G, 

Draw a stright line from A to G. B to H is inch less than the distance from A to G 
I5f Inches for this draft. Square up from H, 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 13I inches altogether for this draft. Sweep for 
ward from I, pivoting at G, This establishes J. 

G to K is 1 inch more than the second-over, 18^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is 3^5-breast and L to M is if inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is 11 inch. Square up from P. This establishes R. 

Draw a straight line from P through a point f inch beyond R. Draw a straight line from 
N to H for the run of the shoulder seam, establishing U. 

C to C2 is f inch. Draw a straight line from A to C2 for the center seam and to estab- 
ish B3. 

Draw a straight line from L down through C2. This establishes D2 and W2, 

B to O2 is f inch less than f breast, C to X is f breast. Draw a straight line from O2 
down through X, establishing V. 

The star is half-way between E and R. Draw a straight line from the star to G. 

Shape the scye as represented from U toward F. This establishes Q. 

Finish the backpart as represented. 

F to Y is f waist, 8 inches for this draft, Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half-way 
between Z and B. 

X to 2 is the same distance as from Y to i, 2f inches for this draft. 

2 to 16 is f waist and 16 to 3 Is f inch. 3 to 4 equals i to B, | inch for this draft. 5 is 
half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 down through a point half-way between 
3 and 4. This establishes 23. 

B3 to 8 Is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 Is 2\ inches and 9 to 10 is f inch for extra breast full¬ 
ness, 10 being the front center. 

C2 to X,.2 to 3 and 4 to 11 Is one-half full waist, and 11 to i 2 is 2 Inches. 

Square down from 12. This establishes 17 and 13. 

17 to 25 equals 12 to ii. D2 to V and 25 to 26 is ^ Inch less than one-half full seat. 

Draw a straight line from 2 down through 26. Shape the side-seam as represented from 








245 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 



Q to 2, reducing j inch at the breast line, and make the length from 2 to 7 equal the length of 
the backpart from X to 6. 

23 to 24 is ^ inch. Draw a straight line from 3 down through 24. 23 to 303 is 1^ inch. 

Draw a straight line from 4 down through 303. 

Finish the sidebody as represented, curving the bottom to a point 1 inch above the straiaht 
line as to 15. ^ 

























240 the new standard coat system. 


Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, making the length from 4 to 333 the 
same as from 3 to 15. 

J to 18 is 5- breast. 18 to 18B is f inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of the 
gorge from A through 18B. 

J to 19 is breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from I 
as at A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at N2. 
Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

U 2 to 22 is f inch, or a little more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F, and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

Sweep forward from 333, pivoting at 21. This establishes 14. Shape the bottom as repre¬ 
sented. 

Shape the front center as represented from 21 through 10 and 17, passing about f inch 
beyond 12 and springing out a trifle at the bottom. 

To the left forepart a stand, 1 inch wide, is added as shown by the shaded part, from the 
bottom to ^ inch below 4, which is tacked across 3^ inches lower, to which point a stand is also 
added to the right side. Both foreparts are vented to the lower tack. khe leftside opens above 
the tack and the sword is attached through the opening to the belt which is worn under the 
coat. 

The Collar. —Square each way from 35. 

35 to 36 is I inch more than the length of the gorge. 

Square up from 36. 

35. to 37 is if inch and 36 to 38 is the same. 

Draw a straight line from 37 to 38. 

37 to 39 is f inch. 

Draw a straight line for the end from 35 to 39. 

Round up the bottom ^ inch as represented. 

The Sleeve is drafted the same as explained for Diagram 5. 

THE FACINGS. 

Diagram 115. —The facings extend about ^ inch above the forepart at 21 and N2, and 
the same distance below it at 14. 

The width back of N2 is i inch, or a little more, and back of 14 about 2 inches. 

The left facing is cut even with the front edge of the forepart, but the right facing 
extends I5 inch beyond the front center. 

The heavy lines show the factjig for the right side. The facing for the left side is the same as 
for the other side except that its front edge {as already explained) follozvs the front edge of the 
forepart through 21 to 14, as shown by the light solid line. 

The facing for the right side must itself be faced from the front edge to about i inch 
back of 21 and 14; otherwise it would show the wrong side of the material. 

The left forepart is finished with a fly under the edge braid, which is i:f inch wide, the 
eyes of the buttonholes being ^ inch from the finished edge. 

The hip vent closes with two buttons as shown; the second opening is closed with one button. 









THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


247 



DIAGRAM 115. 














248 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


OFFICER’S DOUBLE=BREASTED FROCK. 


'X'HE measures are as follows : 


DIAGRAM I i6. 


8f depth-of-scye, 

17 natural waist, 
i8f fashionable waist, 
35^ length. 


I G front-of-scye, 
i2| first-over, 

18 second-over, 


38 breast, 
32 waist. 


Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9b inches altogether for this draft ; A 
to C is the natural waist; A to D is the fashionable waist; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, iib inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square 
up from G as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to hi is b inch less than the distance from A 
to G, 15I- inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 13b inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 19 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is yig- breast and L to M is ib inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is ib inch. Square up from P. This 
establishes O, R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is | inch for this 

draft, but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from S to C to establish V. 

C to W is yV breast and W to X is i inch, but may be a little more or less, according 
to taste or style. 

D to 50 is ib inch. Draw a straight line from A down through 50. A to 49 is the 
lenofth. 

o 

Shape the backpart as represented, making the width b inch more from 49 to 48 than 
from D to the side-seam. 

The side-seain may be either less or more curved than to E, accordmg to taste or style. 

F to Y is b waist, 8 inches for this draft. Z is half-way between Y and B and i is 

half-way between Z and B. 

From X to 2 is the same as from Y to i, 2-^-^ inches for this draft. 2 to 3 is b waist 

and 3 to 4 equals i to B, bf inch for this draft. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from Q toward F. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 

Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing b inch at the breast line, making the 
length to 6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower 
waist line and giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast and 8 to 9 is 2b inches. 












249 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 



DIAGRAM ii6. 


C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to ii is one-half full waist, and ii to 12 is 2 inches. 

Square down from ii. This establishes 14. 14 to 15 is yV waist. Draw a straight 

line for the bottom of the forepart from 7 to 15. 

D to 31 is the same as 14 to 15. Draw a straight line from 31 through 15. 

































































250 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


J to i8 is i breast. l8 to i8B is inch. Draw a straight line for the height and 
run of gorge from A through i8B. 

J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to 
establish 21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast 
from I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up 
from H as at N2. Mark alongf the shoulder seam as from N2 to U 2. 

U2 to 22 is I inch or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F and 
the gorge from N2 to 21. 

100 is half-way between G and 9. Square down from 100 to establish 13. 13 to 28 

is ^ natural waist. 13 to 29 is inch when the waist is exactly 4 inches smaller than the 

breast, and 13 to 30 is the same; but the distance increases inch for each inch the waist 

is 7 nore than that much smaller than the breast, making it inch for this draft (G iiich 

altogether^, a 7 id decreases the sarne amoimt for each inch the waist is less than 4 mchcs 
smaller than the breast, which wotild make the distance f inch from 13 to 29 and also from 
13 to 30 if the waist size for this draft were 36. 

Shape the V and the bottom as represented. 

Shape the center seam from 21 through 10 and 12, establishing 17. 

Sweep forward from 21, pivoting at 12. 21 to 24 is 4 inches when the waist is 4 

inches or more smaller than the breast, but decreases ^ inch for each inch the waist 
exceeds proportion. Draw a straight line from 21 through 24. 24 to 25 is breast and 

25 to 27 is 2 inches. 17 to 26 is 3 inches. Draw a straight line from 26 to 27. Shape 
the lapel as represented. 

23 is half-way between 21 and 24. Draw a straight line from 23 down through 17. 
23 to 300 is 15 inch. Square both ways from 300, establishing 16. Measure the distance 
from 300 to ^ inch above 17, and by one-sixth of the distance space for the buttons and 
buttonholes on the line, and then square each way for them as represented. 

From the front center of the forepart to each button is f inch less than from the 
seam edge of the lapel to the front edge. 

The Collar. —Square each way from 47. 47 to 46 is y inch more than the length of the 
gorge. Square up from 46. 47 to 44 is if inch and 46 to 45 is the same. Draw a straight line 
from 45 to 44. Shape as represented, sloping the end y inch back of 44, curving the seam edge 
up y inch at the end, and curving the top to correspond. 

The Skirt.— 32 is directly under 6, Square down from 32. 32 to 33 is one-half natural 

waist. Square back from 33. 33 to 34 is 3f inches always. > 34 to 35 equals Y to i of the backpart. 
Draw a straight line from 32 down through 35. 32 to 36 is 18 inches. Shape the fold edge 

of the plait as represented from 32 through 36, rounding out ^ inch opposite 35. 32 to 37 is | 

inch more than the length of the back skirt. 32 to 41 equals the width of the bottom of the 
sidebody. 41 to 42 is ^ inch more than from 7 of the forepart to the edge of the Shape 

the top as represented, making the V’s y inch wide. 

17 to 38 is y inch less than 32 to 37. 

38 to 39 equals 17 to 26. Draw a straight line for the front edge from 26 to 39. 

Finish as represented. 

The Sleeve is drafted the same as for Diagram 5. 

















THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


251 


B etter to spend a few minutes extra in making sure you are right in measuring and 

DRAFTING THAN A FEW HOURS IN MAKING ALTERATIONS CAUSED BY CARELESSNESS OR MISTAKE. 







252 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


OFFICER’S OVERCOAT AND HOOD, U. 5. ARMY. 


DIAGRAM I I 7. 


*^HE measures are as follows : 

1front-of-scye, 
13 first-over, 
i8| second-over, 


9 depth-of-scye, 
18 natural waist, 
50 length, 


40 breast, 
35 waist. 


{^Taken on the Undercoat.^ 

Square lines A W and A S. 

A to is 5 inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9.4 inches altogether for this draft; A to C 
is the natural waist ; C to D is one-third natural waist ; A to W is the length ; E is half-way 
between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C, D and \V. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, iG inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up 
from G. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is inch more than the distance from A to 
G, inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 14 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, iqf inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is yij breast and L to M is G inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is i| inch. Square up from P. This 
establishes R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is f inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

C to C2 Is Inch. Draw a straight line from E to C2. This establishes B3. 

D to X is 2 inches and X to Z is | Inch. Shape the center seam as represented from A 
through E, B3, C2 and D2 to Z. 

X to I is |- Inch and W to W2 is the same. 

3 is half-way between E and B and 4 is half-way between B and 3. Square across from 4. 

Shape the scye as represented from U toward F. This establishes Q. 

D to V is ^ inch more than B to P. 

Draw a straight line from P down through V, establishing 6, and finish the backpart as 
represented. 

F to Y is 5 waist. 8|- Inches for this draft. 

C2 to 2 equals B to Y, 2| inches for this draft. 

B3 to 8 is one-half full breast, and 8 to 9 is 2^ inches. From 9 to 10 is the same 
distance as from B to O, 65 inches for this draft. 

2 to 11 is one-half full waist, and ii to 12 is 2 inches. 12 to 13 Is i inch less than 9 to 10. 
5^ inches for this draft. 

Draw a straight line from 9 down through 12 to establish 14. Square down from 12 to 
establish 15. Draw a straight line from 16 to 12 for the front center. 

16 to 5 equals 12 to 13. Draw a straight line from 5 up through 13. 
















the new standard coat system 


253 














































































































254 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


26 is half-way between D and V, and 31 is half-way between V and 26. Q to 22 is ^ 
inch. Draw a straight line from 22 down through 31, establishing 24. 24 to 25 is ^ inch. 
Shape the side seam as represented, making the length from 22 to 7 the same as from Q to 6. 

J to 18 is i breast. 18 to 18B is f inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run 
of the gorge from S through 18B. 

J to 19 is ^ breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 
21. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I to A2, B3 on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at N2. 
Mark along the shoulder seam as from N2 to U2. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from U2 to N2, the scye from U2 to F, and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

3 to 29 is ^ inch. Draw a straight line from 29 through 21 for the run of the top of 
the lapel. 

21 to 30 is 4 inch. 30 to 23 equals 9 to 10. 

Shape the bottom as represented from 7 to 5, and the front edge from 23 through 10 
to about half-way between 13 and 17. 

9 to 32 is I inch. Draw a straight line from 21 to 32. 33 is half-way between 21 and 
32, and 34 is half-way between 32 and 33. Finish the V, curving the edges -slightly as 
represented. 

IT to 27 is I inch more than ^ waist. Square down from 27, establishing 28. 28 to 35 is 

5 inches and from the same point to 36 is 3 inches. 37 is half-way between 35 and 36. 
Square back from 35, 37 and 36. 35 to 38 is ij inch and 36 to 39 is the same. 37 to 40 

is 2^ inches. A slit is made through the left pocket to permit the slings to come through 

the pocket opening for hooking up of saber. Shape the flap as represented. 

23 to 41 is 2 inches. 17 to 42 is one-half as far as from i 7 to 13. 

Space as represented for five buttonholes and square back for the buttons. 

From the front center to the buttons is f inch less than from the front center to the 

edge. 

The Collar. —Square each way from A2. 

A2 to I is 2^ inches, i to 2 is inch more than the length of the gorge. 

Square up from i and down from 2. i to 3 is i inch. 2 to 4 is inch. 

A2 to 5 is 2f inches. Draw a straight line from i through 5, i to 6 is 5 inches. 

2 to 7 is 4 inch. Draw a straight line from 7 through 4. 4 to 8 is 5 inches. 

9 is half-way between i and 4. Square down from 9. 9 to 10 is \ inch and 10 to ii is 5 

inches. 

Curve the crease line from 4 through 10 to i and finish as represented. 

THE HOOD. 

Diagram 118.—Square up and across from A. 

A to B is breast, B to C is I2f inches and C to D is 8|- inches. 

Square forward from C. C to E is i inch. Draw a straight line from E to A and square 
forward from E by the line just drawn. 

C to F is 8J inches. 

Draw a' straight line from D to F and make D to G ^ breast. 

Square forward through G as from H. 

E to I is breast and I to J is 4 inch. 

Sweep for the neck from J, pivoting at G. This establishes K, 









THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


255 



DIAGRAM li8. 

































256 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM- 


G to L is ^ inch. Square up from L. L to M is 7 inches. K to N is f inch. Draw 
a straight line from M through N. This establishes O. P is half-way between N and O 
and P to 40 is ^ inch. 

N to Q is 2 inches. Draw a straight line from Q through O. This establishes R. S is 
half-way between O and R. T is half-way between O and S, and T to 30 is ^ inch. 

Shape the edge as represented from N through 40, O and 30 to S. 

U is half-way between A and C and V is ^ inch less than half-way from U to B. 

A to W is 5 inches. Square up from W. W to X is 3^ inches. Y and Z are each D inch 
from W. Draw straight lines from X to Y and to Z. i and 2 are each inch from X. 

Shape the V as represented, rounding each edge about inch at i and at 2. 

Draw a straight line from Y to V. 3 is half-way between Y and V, and 3 to 4 is ^ inch. 

Shape the center seam from E through U and 4 to Y as represented. 

Draw a straight line from Z to S. This line goes to the fold of the material and is, 
of course, the center of the hood. 

THE COMPLETE HOOD AS CUT. 

Diagram 119.—The thin line from S to Z represents the fold of the material. 

The edges Y to E seam together, E being the top of the seam, and lying, when the 
hood is worn, at the top of the center seam of the coat. 

The edges E to N go round the neck and are, of course, the gorge. 

THE HOOD FOLDED. 

Diagram 120.—^The fold, S to Z. is the same as before and is the outside of the head. 

Each side of the hood is now represented as folded under from X^ so that E, the top 
of the seam, is on a line with it. 

The hood buttons to the overcoat and is, of course, detachable. 


y 














THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


257 


DIAGRAM 119. 



DIAGRAM 120. 



























258 


the new standard coat system 


THE MILITARY CAPE. 


DIAGRAM I 2 I . 


I^RAW a straight line on the drafting paper as from A to B and square forward as from C. 

Place the backpart of an overcoat pattern of the size required so that the breast line 
lies exactly over the cross-line and the top of the centerseam touches the up-and-down line as at 
A. The broken lines show the backpart placed as explained. 

Place the forepart to touch the backpart at D, with point E ^ inch from F, as shown by 
the broken lines. 

Mark along the neck from A through G (end of gorge), down the front edge and along the 
scye from the shoulder seam for about 2 inches. 

Draw a strais^ht line from A to G. 

H is half-way between A and G and H to I is ^ inch. 

Make a point at the front of the scye as at J. 

Adjust the forepart to the side-seam of the backpart, as represented, and make a point at the 
bottom of the scye as at K. 

Draw a straight line from J to K. 

L is half-way between J and K and L to M is inch. 

Draw a straight line from I through M. This establishes N. N to O is i inch. 

A to B is the length. 

Sweep forward from B by point I as to Q, and square back by the front edge to touch the 
sweep, establishing R. 

Cut as drafted and divide in two parts on the line I P. 

See the next diagram. 











THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


^59 



DIAGRAM I2I. 

















260 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


THE MILITARY CAPE. 

{^Concbidcd.^ 


DIAGRAM 122. 

I ET the two parts touch at O, with points F and E spread until the front edge is square with 
the back center. This causes the two parts to lap at the bottom as from P to P. 
Shape from E to O and from F to O as represented, adding a seam on each side. 
X is half-way between E and F. 

Draw a straight line from X down through O. 

Draw a straight line from P to P to establish Y. 

Y to W is one-half as far as from Y to P. 

P'inish as represented, terminating the V i inch above O. 

Cut the collar as for an overcoat. 










THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


261 



t 

i 


t. 








262 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


KNIGHTS TEMPLAR COAT. 


'^HE full uniform for officers consists of coat and trousers of black cloth, baldric, belt, sword, 
shoulder-straps, guantlets and chapeau, and may include a cape or cloak of black beaver 
Commanders and Past Commanders wear gold wherever metal appears, but other officers and 
Sir Knights wear white, except for buttons and shoulder-straps, which are of gold—the Prelate 
alone excepted, whose belt is of black leather, and buttons of black silk or lasting. The 
Commander, Past Commander, Generalissimo and Captain-General wear a double-breasted 
frock lined with black. 


COMMANDER’S COAT. 





DIAGRAM 123. 


'Y'HE 

measures are as follows: 





9 

depth-of-scye. 


12 front-of-scye, 

40 breast 


17 

natural waist, 


13 first-over, 

36 waist. 


i 8 f 

fashionable waist, 

18^ second-over. 



38 

length. 





Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9.^^ inches altogether for this draft ; A to C 
is the natural waist; A to D is the fashionable waist; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 12 inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up and 
down from G, as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is ^ inch less than the distance from A to G, 
16:^ inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 13 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 19^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting to G. 

A to L is yV breast and L to M is G inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is G inch. Square up from P. This estab¬ 
lishes Q, R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

S to 50 is I inch. 

Draw a straight line from 50 to C to establish V. 

C to W is y'y breast and W to X is inch, but may be a little more or less, according to 
taste or style. 

D to 49 is G inch. Draw a straight line from A down through 49. A to 48 is the length. 
Square forward for the bottom of.the backpart from 48. 

Draw a straight line from M down through X. This establishes 47 and 46. 

Shape the backpart as represented. 













THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


263 



DIAGRAM T23. 


45 is one-third way from 47 to 46. Shape the side-edge as represented, making the width 
I inch at 46 and i inch at 45. The inner edge follows the plait of the back skirt. 

The side-seam may be either less or more curved than to V, according to taste or style. 

P' to Y is 4 waist, 9 inches for this draft. Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half-way 

between Z and B. 





















































































264 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


From X to 2 is the same as from Y to i, 2\ inches from this draft. 2 to 3 is waist and 
3 to 4 equals i to B, f inch for this draft. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from Q toward F. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 

Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing ^ inch at the breast line, making the length 
to 6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower waist line 
and giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast, and 8 to 9 is 2^ inches. 

C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full waist, and ii to 12 is 2 inches. 

Square down from ii. This establishes 14. 14 to 15 is waist. Draw a straight 

line from 7 to 15. This establishes 16. D to 31 is waist. Draw a straight line for¬ 
ward from 31 through 15. This establishes 17. 

J to 18 is breast. 18 to 18B is f inch. Draw a straight line for the height and 

run of gorge from A through 18B. 

J to 19 is breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to 
establish 21. 

Draw a straight line from 16 to 21 and shape the V as represented, making it inch wide. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along the center seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is I inch, or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F, and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

Shape the front center as represented from 21 through 9 and 12, establishing 17. 17 to 26 

is 2f inches. Shape the bottom as represented from 7 through 15 to 26. 

Sweep forward from 21, pivoting at i 7. 2 i to 25 is 4 inches when the waist is 4 inches or 

more smaller than the breast, but decreases I- inch for each inch the waist exceeds proportion. 

Draw a straight line from 25 to 17 for the seam edge of the lapel, this establishes 13. 
Draw a straight line from 21 through 25. 25 to 23 is 4:f inches and 13 to 10 is the same. 

Finish the lapel as represented. Space the lapel for eleven buttonholes and rub out the 
fourth and eighth, leaving three groups of three each as represented. 

21 to 24 is 4 inches, ^ inch less than 25 to 23, and 17 to the lowest button is 2 inches. 

Draw the button line as represented and space the buttons on it to correspond with the 
buttonholes. 

The Collar as drafted is inch wide. 

The Skirt. —6 to 32 is ^ inch. Draw a straight line from 6 to 33, and square down from 
32 by the line just drawn. Shape the top as represented, filling in inch at 33. 32 to 34 is 

one-half natural waist. Square back from 3.^. 34 to 35 is 3I inches always. 35 to 36 equals 

Y to I of the backpart, inches for this draft. Draw a straight line from 32 down through 36. 
32 to 37 is 18 inches. Shape the fold edge of the plait as represented from 32 through 37, 
rounding out | inch opposite 36. 32 to 38 is inch more than the length of the back skirt. 

Square down from 26. 26 to 39 is 18 inches. 39 to 41 is ^ inch. Draw a straight line from 
26 down through 41 for the front edge. 26 to 42 is inch less than 32 to 38. Shape the 
bottom and add i inch for the plait as represented. 

The Sleeve is drafted the same as for Diagram 5. 




THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


265 


HEN THE SHOULDER IS STRAIGHTENED THE FRONT EDGE SHOULD BE 

USUAL AND THE FRONT OF SCYE MORE. 


WORKED IN LESS THAN 




266 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


COACHMAN’S DRESS COAT. 


DIAGRAM 124. 


^T^HE side-edges have each two buttons—one at the top, the other at the bottom. The sleeve 
finish may be an imitation cuff, closed with either two or three bottoms, or an imitation 
cuff 2^ inches deep closed with one button and with a button above the cuff. The collar may 
be of the same material as the rest of the coat or of velvet. The orroom’s dress coat is the same 

O 

as the coachman’s, except that it is from 5 to 6 inches shorter, that it has no flaps and that it has 
six instead of four buttons behind. 


THE MEASURES. 

depth-of-scye, 

I natural waist, 

19 fashionable waist, 

39 length, 

eight, 5 feet, 8 inckesi) 

Square line A D and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9^ inches altogether for this draft; A to C 
is the natural waist; A to D is the fashionable waist ; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, i G inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up and 
down from G, as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is ^ inch less than the distance from A to G, 

inches for this draft. Square up from II. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 12^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep for¬ 
ward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, i8| inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is G inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is inch. Square up from P. This estab¬ 
lishes Q, R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this draft* 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

C to W is yy breast and \V to X is i inch, but may be a little more or less, according to 
taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from S to a point half-way between C and W to establish V. 

Shape the backpart as represented. 

The side-seam may be cither le^s or more curved'than to V, accordniir to taste or style. 

F to Y is ^ waist, 8| inches for this draft. Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half¬ 
way between Z and B. 

From X to 2 is the same as from Y to i, 2|- inches for this draft. 2 to 3 is i waist and 3 
to 4 equals i to B, f inch for this draft. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from Q toward P'. 

5 is half-wpy between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 


1front-of-scye, 
12^ first-over, 

I 7I second-over. 


37 breast, 
34 waist. 











THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


26 V 



DIAGRAM 124. 

Shape the siclebody as represented, reducing ^ inch at the breast line, making the length 
to 6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower waist line 
and giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 






















































268 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


B to 8 is one-half full breast, 8 to 9 is 2^ inches and 9 to 10 is i inch. 

C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one half full waist, 11 to 12 is 2 inches and 1 2 to 13 is i incli. 

Draw a straight line from 10 to 13. 

Square down from ii. This establishes 14. 14 to 15 is waist. Draw a straight line 

for the bottom of the forepart from 7 through 15. This establishes 16, 

D to 24 is yi^- waist. Draw a straight line from 24 forward through 17 and shape the 
bottom as represented, 

J to 18 is breast. 18 to 18B is ^ inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
gorge from S through 18B. This line may be drawn through a point a little higher or lower 
than accordi 7 ig to taste or style ; but 18 is ahvays b breast below J. 

J to 19 is y breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Draw a straight line from 16 to 21 and shape the V as represented, making it ^ inch wide. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark along the center seam as from N2 to U 2. 

U2 to 22 is f inch or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F and tne 
gorge from N 2 to 21. 

21 to 23 is ib inch, but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

Shape the front edge as represented, establishing i 7. 

Draw the button line from 12 through a point b inch back of 9. 

Draw the crease line from the end of the roll, which for this draft is 4 inches below 23, 
toward a point b inch in front of N 2. Space the edge for seven buttons. 

The Collar. —Draw the crease line (for a roll that does not extend below the breast line) 
through a point b inch back of N2. The leaf is the same width as from 21 to 23 at the end 
and is inch wide at the back center,.or a little more or less, according to taste or style, and 
the height of the stand is inch. 

The Back Skirt. —D to 25 is ib inch. Draw a straight line from A down through 25. A 
to 26 is the length. Square forward from 26. 26 to 27 is b inch more than from 25 to the side 

seam. Shape as represented, making the plait i inch wide. 

The Side Edge, represented by the triple line, is b inch wide at the top and i inch wide 
at the bottom. 

The Skirt. —Draw a straight line from 6 to 29 and square down as represented from 
a point b inch forward of 6. Top to 30 is one-half natural waist. Square back from 30. 
30 to 31 is 3f inches always. 31 to 32 equals Y to i of the backpart, 2b inches for this draft. 
Draw a straight line down through 32. Top to 33 is 18 inches. Shape the fold edge as 
represented through 33, swelling f inch at 32. Add 1 inch for the plait. Top to 34 is b inch 
more than the length of the back skirt. Square down from 17. i 7 to 35 is 18 inches, 35 
to 36 is b inch. Draw a straight line for the front edge from 17 through 36. 17 to 37 equals 

top to 34. Finish as represented. 

The Flap. —12 to 38 is i inch less than b waist. Square down from 38. Top to 41 is 4 
inches. Plait edge to 42 equals one-half the width of the bottom of the sidebody. 42 to 
43 is 4 inches. Shape as represented. 






THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


269 


EVER CUT YOUR MATERIAL UNTIL IT IS THOROUGHLY DRY. 










270 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM, 


FOOTMAN’S COATEE. 


DIAGRAM 125. 


footman’s coatee, as here represented, is almost identical in style with that used in the 
Union, the Union League, the University, the Metropolitan, the Manhattan and other 
prominent clubs in New York City, and is the same as that affected by nearly all the families 
of high social standing in the country. The fronts just meet at the end of the roll and close 
with looped buttons. The skirt, which is pressed flat, has full-length side edges, each with 
three buttons (top, middle and bottom), the lower two partly covered by the plait, and side 
slashes scalloped on the edge and ornamented with three buttons. The material generally used 
is a green kerseymere livery cloth and the buttons are of gilt. 

The measures are as follows: 


9^ depth-of-scye, 

17^ natural waist, 

19 fashionable waist. 


12 front-of-scye, 

13 first-over, 

19 second-over. 


39 breast, 
36 waist. 


(yHeight, 5 feet 10 inches.) 

Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is 4 inch more than the depth-of-scye, 9! inches altogether for this draft; A to C is 
the natural waist; A to D is the fashionable waist; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward, as represented, from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 12 inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up and 
down from G, as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is inch less than the distance from A to G, 
i6| inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 14 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep for¬ 
ward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 20 inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is G inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is G inch. Square up from P. This estab¬ 

lishes Q, R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is ^ inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from S to D to establish V. 

C to W is breast and W to X is if inch, but maybe a little more or less, according to 
taste or style. 

Shape the backpart as represented. 

The side seam may be eitlm' less or more curved than to V, according to taste or style. • 

F to Y is i waist, 9 inches for this draft. Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half¬ 
way between Z and B. 

From X to 2 is the same as from Y to i, 2\ inches for this draft. 2 to 3 is {- waist 

and 3 to 4 equals i to B, f inch for this draft. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from Q toward F. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 











THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


271 



Shape the siclebody as represented, reducing ^ inch at the breast line, making the length to 
6 equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower waist line and 
giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast and 8 to 9 is 2^ inches. 




































272 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


C to X’ 2 to 3 and 4 to ii is one-half full waist and ii to 12 is inch. 

Square down from 11. This establishes 14. 14 to 15 is I inch more than waist. 
Draw a straight line for the bottom of the forepart from 7 through 15. This establishes 16. 

J to 18 is y breast. 18 to 18B is f inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
gorge from S through 18B. T/i2s line may be draivn through a point a little higher or lower 
than I ZB, according to taste or style; but 18 is ahvays breast below J. 

J to 19 is breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to 
establish 21. 

Draw a straight line from 16 to 21 and shape the V as represented, making it ^ inch wide. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from 
I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at 
N2. Mark alongr the center seam as from N2 to U2. 

U 2 to 22 is f inch or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F” and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

Shape the front center as represented from 21 through 9 and 12, establising 17, and 
extend it inch as to 24. 

Sweep forward from 21, pivoting at i 2. 21 to 25 is inch when the waist is 4 inches or 

more smaller than the breast, but is inch less for each inch the waist increases proportion¬ 
ately. If, to illustrate, the waist were the same size as the breast, 21 to 25 would be only i:|- 
inch. 

Draw a straight line from 25 to 17 for the seam edge of the lapel. Draw a straight line 
from G through 25. 25 to 23 is 2|- inches, 13 to 10 is 3^ inches and i 7 to 26 is 2 inches. 
Finish the lapel as represented. Draw a straight line from the eye of the top buttonhole to 
the eye of the one in the waist seam. Measure the distance from eye to eye and add 2 inches, 
making 20 inches altogether for this draft. Space the buttonholes up to the end of the roll by 
26 on the SCALE of sixths, and from the top buttonhole down in the same way. 

Draw the button line as represented from 8 to a point id inch back of 17. 

Draw a straight line for the crease from the end of the roll toward a point d inch 
beyond N2. 

The Collar. —Draw the crease line through N2. The leaf is id inch wide at the end 
and d inch wider at the back center, and the height of the stand is i^ inch. 

The Back Skirt. —D to 27 is id inch. Draw a straight line from 27 down, guiding by 
A, apply the length to 28 and square forward from that point. 28 to 29 is d inch more 
than 27 to the side-seam. Shape as represented, adding i inch for the plait. 

The Side-Edge is d inch wide to 30 and f inch wide to 31, and extends, of course, to 
the edge of the plait. 

The Skirt and Slash. —D to 32 equals the distance from the lower waist line to 15. 
Draw a straight line from 32 to 17. 17 to 33 equals the waist-seam length of the forepart 

and sidebody. Draw a straight line from 33 to 34 and square down from 33 by the line just 
drawn. 

33 to 35 is one-half natural waist; 35 to 36 is 3! inches ahvays; 36 to 37 is the same as 
from Y to 1 of the backpart, 2d inches for this draft, and 37 to 38 is d inch. Draw a straight 
line from 33 down through 37. 33 to 39 is 18 inches. Shape the fold edge of the plait as 
represented from 33 through-38 toward 39, make the length d inch more from 33 to 41 
than from 30^0 29 of the back skirt, and add i inch for the plait. Square forward from 41. 

33 to 42 is 'the bottom width of sidebody. 42 to 43 is inch and 42 to 44 is the 











THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


273 


same. 41 to 45 equals 33 to 43. Draw a straight line from 45 up through 43. 43 to 46 

is I inch. 

17 to 47 is one-third waist and 41 to 48 is i inch more. Draw a straight line from 
47 to 48 and draw another from 33 to a point \ inch below 24, establishing 49. Shape 
the front edge of the skirt as represented from 49 to 48, and shape the top from 33 
through 46. 

50 is half-way between 43 and 45 and 50 to 51 is inch. Square back from 51. 51 

to 52 is 2^ inches. Draw a straight line from 52 up through 44, establishing 53. 54 is 
half-way between 53 and 52. Shape the edge of the slash as represented from 53 to 54 
and from 54 to 52. A button is placed in each corner. 








274 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


LIVERY SHAD=BELLY EVENING DRESS COAT. 


DIAGRAM I 26. 


'^HOUGH not in general use, this coat is not infrequently worn at evening receptions, balls 
and other social functions. Two rows of tracing braid are laid from the buttons to the edge, 
a button shows under each point of the Vandike flap, each back skirt has a full-length side edge, 
with either two or three buttons as preferred, and the sleeve finish matches the breast 
ornamentation. 

THE MEASURES. 


depth-of-scye, 

17^ natural waist, 

19!^ fashionable waist, 
38 length, 


I G front-of-scye, 
12^ first-over, 

18^ second-over. 


{Height, 5 feet 10 inchesi) 


39 breast, 
33 waist. 


Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, qf inches altogether for this draft ; A to C is 
the natural waist; A to D is the fashionable waist ; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, i id inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up and 
down from G as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is d inch less than the distance from A to G, 16 
inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 13d inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
forward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, iqd inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is breast and L to M is id inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is id inch. Square up from P. This 
establishes Q, R and S. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is 4 inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from .S to C to establish V. 

C to \V is breast and W to X is i inch, but maybe a little more or less, according to taste 
or style. 

Shape the backpart as represented. 

The side seam may be either less or more curved than to V, according to taste or style. 

F to Y is 4 waist, 8d inches for this draft. Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half¬ 
way between Z and B. 

From X to 2 is the same as from Y to i, 2d inches for this draft. 2 to 3 is d waist and 3 to 
4 equals i to B, f inch for this draft. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from Q toward F. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 

Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing d inch at the breast line, making the length to 6 









THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


275 



DIAGRAM 126 


equal the side-seam length of the backpart, curving the bottom into the lower waist line and giving 
a little hip spring below 3 

. Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast and 8 to 9 is 2f inches. 

C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full waist, ii to 12 is 2 inches and 12 to 10 is i inch. 



































276 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


Square down from 12. This establishes 14. 14 to 15 is waist. Draw a straight line for the 

bottom of the forepart from 7 through 15. This establishes 16. 

J to 18 is breast. Draw a straight line for the height and run of gorge from S through 
a point f inch below 18. 

J to 19 is breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 21. 

Draw a straight line from 16 to 21 and shape the V as represented, making it i inch wide. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast from I as 
at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up from H as at N2. 
Mark along the center seam as fromN2 to U 2. 

U2 to 22 is I inch ora trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F and the 
gorge from N2 to 21. 

Shape the front edge as represented from 21 through 9 and 10. 

I 7 is half-way between U2 and N 2. Draw the button line as represented from i 7 through 11. 

The Collar is inch wide. 

The Back Skirt. —D to 23 is inch. Draw a straight line down from 23, guiding by A. 
A to 24 is the length. Square forward from 24. 24 to 25 is inch more than from 23 to the 

side-seam. Shape as represented. 

The Side Edge is ^ inch wide to 26 and i inch wide to 27. It extends, of course, under the 
plait. T/te 7 niddle butto 7 i 77 iay be omitted. 

The Skirt. —D to 28 is yy waist. Draw a straight line from 28 to 15. 15 to 29 is the 

length of the waist seam from the same point to 6. Draw a straight line from 29 to 30 and 
square down from 29 by the line just drawn. 29 to 31 is one-half natural waist. Square back 
from 31. 31 to 32 is 3I inches always. 32 to 33 is the same as Y to i of the backpart, 2^ 

inches for this draft, and 33 to 34 is | inch. Draw a straight line from 29 down through 33. 
29 to 35 is 18 inches. Shape the fold edge as represented from 29 through 34 and 35. 29 to 36 is 
^ inch more than the length of the back skirt. 15 to 37 equals 29 to 36. Draw a straight line 
from 36 to 37. 36 to 38 is y breast and 38 to 39 is 3 inches. Shape the top and the front edge as 

represented. 

The Flap. —40B is half-way between 16 and 15 and 41 is half-way between 40B and 15. 29 to 
42 is one-half the width of the bottom of the sidebody. 41 to 43 is 4 inches and 42 to 44 is the 
same. 45 is half-way between 42 and 41 and 46 is half-way between 43 and 4.1.. Shape as 
represented. 

The Sleeve Finish. —C2 to D2 is 4 inches and E2 to W2 is the same. B3 is half-way be¬ 
tween D2to W2 and O2 is half-way between C2and E2. 47 is half-way between D2 and B3 and 

48 is half-way between B3 and W2. 49 is half-way between C2 and O2 and 50 is half-way 

between O2 and E2. Finish as represented. 






THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


277 


HOULD YOUR COATS BE TOO HIGH IN THE NECK AS A RULE ADD LESS THAN ^ INCH TO THE 

DEPTH-OF-SCYE ; SHOULD THEY BE TOO LOW ADD MORE. 









278 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


COACHMAN’S GREAT COAT. 


DIAGRAM 127. 

E lengths are 19 and from 48 to 49 inches for a man of average height, 5 feet 8 inches. 

The collar may be of velvet, or of the same material as the overcoat, or of the same in 
texture but of a different color. The ticket pocket may be placed in the right hip pocket or in 
the waist seam. The edges are double stitched, the seams are lapped and stitched to match the 
seams and the sleeve finish is from three to five rows of stitching. The groom’s great coat is 
the same as the coachman’s, except that it is from 3 to 4 inches shorter and has three buttons 
on each side-edge. The middle button is omitted from the side-edges of the coachman’s 
great coat, because if used it would wear the box-seat of the coach. 


THE MEASURES. 


(Taken on the Undercoat.^ 


95 depth-of-scye, 

18 natural waist, 

20 fashionable waist, 
50 length, 


12^ front-of-scye, 
13b first-over, 

19!^ second-over, 


{Height, 6 feet .) 


42 breast, 
40 waist. 


Square lines A D and A S. 

A to B is ^ inch more than the depth-of-scye, 10 inches altogether for this draft; A to C 
Is the natural waist ; A to D is the fashionable waist ; E is half-way between A and B. 

Square forward as represented from E, B, C and D. 

B to F is the front-of-scye, 12^ inches for this draft, and F to G is inch. Square up and 
down from G as represented. This establishes 40. 

Draw a straight line from A to G. B to H is b inch less than the distance from A to G, 17 
inches for this draft. Square up from H. 

G to I is I inch more than the first-over, 14^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep for¬ 
ward from I, pivoting at G. This establishes J. 

G to K is I inch more than the second-over, 20^ inches altogether for this draft. Sweep 
back from K, pivoting at G. 

A to L is ytg- breast and L to M Is Inch. 

Square up from M and draw a straight line from J to A to establish N. 

O is half-way between B and G and O to P is i| inch. Square up from P. This estab¬ 

lishes R and S. 

Q is y inch below the line drawn from A to G. 

Draw a straight line from N to H. This establishes T. T to U is inch for this draft, 
but may be a little more or less, according to taste or style. 

Draw a straight line from S to C to establish V. 

C to W is jL breast and W to X is if inch, but may be a little more or less, according to 

taste or style. 

Shape the backpart as represented. 

The side scam may be either dess or more curved than to V, according to taste or style. 

F to Y is ^ waist, 10 inches for this draft. Z is half-way between Y and B and i is half¬ 
way between Z and B. 
















THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


279 



DIAGRAM 127. 


From Xto 2 is the same as from Y to i, if inch for this draft. 2 to 3 is | waist and 3 to 
4 equals i to B, f inch for this draft. 

Shape the back-scye as represented from Q toward F. 

5 is half-way between R and 40. Draw a straight line from 5 to 3. 

Shape the sidebody as represented, reducing inch at the ‘breast line, making the 
length to 6 equal the side-seam length of the backp art, curving the bottom into the lower 
waist line and giving a little hip spring below 3. 

Shape the underarm seam of the forepart as represented, establishing 7. 

B to 8 is one-half full breast and 8 to 9 is 2^ inches. 

C to X, 2 to 3 and 4 to 11 is one-half full waist, and ii to i 2 is 2 inches. 








































































280 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


Square down from ii. This establishes 14. 14 to 15 is tV waist. Draw a straight line 

for the bottom of the forepart from 7 through 15. 

Square forward from 15 and shape the bottom as represented from 7 through 15. 

J to 18 is breast. 18 to 18B is f inch. Draw a straight line for the height and run of 
gorge from S through 18B. 

J to 19 is breast and 19 to 20 is i inch. Draw a straight line from 20 to 9 to establish 
21. 

Draw a straight line from 16 to 21 and shape the V as represented, making it ^ inch wide. 

Cut out the backpart. 

Establish the front shoulder by placing the backpart so that A lies on the sweep cast 
from I as at A2, B on the sweep cast from K as at B2 and N on the line squared up 
from H as at N2. Mark along the center seam as from N2 to U2. 

U2 to 22 is -I inch or a trifle more or less. 

Shape the shoulder seam as represented from 22 to N2, the scye from 22 to F and the 
gorge from N2 to 2 i. 

Shape the front center as represented from 21 through 9 and 12, establishing 17. 
Sweep forward from 21, pivoting at 12. 21 to 25 is 3 inches when the breast is 4 inches 

or more larger than the waist, but decreases inch for each inch the waist exceeds pro¬ 
portion. 21 to 25 is, therefore, 2f inches for this draft. Draw a straight line for the seam 
edge of the lapel from 25 to 17, and draw a straight line for the top of the lapel from P 
through 25. 25 to 23 is 4 inches, 13 to 10 is 4|- inches and 17 to 26 is 3|-inches. Shape 

the lapel as represented. 9 to the button line is 3!^ inches and 17 to the button line is 2f 
inches. 

The Collar. —Square each way from 28. 28 to 29 is f inch. 29 to 30 is ^ inch 

more than the length of the gorge. Square from 30 for the back center.' 30 to 31 is 
inch. 31 to 32 is 2^ inches and 32 is i inch from the line squared from 30. 28 to 33 is 
3^ inches. 34 is half-way between 29 and 30. Shape as represented, hollowing the seam 
edge 5 inch at 34 and drawing the crease line to a point { inch from 29. 

THE BACK SKIRT. 

Diagram 128.—D to 27 is i^ inch. 

Draw a straight line down from 27, guiding by A. 

A to 34 is the length. Square forward from 34. 34 to 35 is ^ inch more than from 

27 to the side-seam. 

Shape as represented, adding i|^ inch for the plait. 

36 is half-way between 24 and 35, and 37 is half-way between 35 and 36. 

Shape the side-edge as represented, making it ^ inch wide at 24 and 2 inches wide at 
37. It extends, of course, under the plait. 

. THE SKIRT. 

Diagram 129.—Draw a straight cross line on the drafting paper as shown by the 
broken line terminating at 7. 

Place the lapel and forepart as represented with the lower waist line exactly covering 
the line just drawn and mark along the bottom of both, as from 7 to 26. 

Extend the top line straight back from 7, guiding by 16. 16 to 38 is the width of the 

bottom of the sidebody. Square down from 38. 38 to 39 is one-half natural waist. Square 












THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


281 



DIAGRAM 129. 


DIAGRAM 128. 










































282 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


back from 39. 39 to 41 is 3I inches. 41 to 42 is the same as from Y to i of the backpart, i|- 

inch for this draft. Draw a straight line from 38 down through 42. 42 to 43 is inch. 43 to 44 

is 18 inches. 

Shape the fold edge of the plait as represented from 38 through 43 and 44. 

38 to 45 is ^ inch more than the length of the back skirt from 24 to 35. 

26 to 46 is 18 inches. 46 to 47 is ^ inch. Draw a straight line for the front edge from 
26 down through 47. 26 to 48 is | inch less than 38 to 45. Shape the bottom as represented. 

12 to 49 is I inch less than ^ waist. Square down from 49. This establishes 50. 51 is 

half-way between 38 and 7. 

Shape the flap as represented, making it 4^ inches wide or a trifle more or less 
















THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


283 


CAREFUL ! 


“AN OUNCE OF PREVENTION IS BETTER THAN A POUND OF CURE.” 





284 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


A CUTTER WHO HAS ACQUIRED THE BAD HABIT, AS MANY CUTTERS HAVE, OF TAKING A CER¬ 
TAIN MEASURE EITHER TOO SLACK OR TOO TIGHT, OFTEN FINDS, WHEN HE ATTEMPTS TO 
TAKE IT EITHER TIGHTER OR LESS TIGHT THAN HE HAS BEEN TAKING IT, THAT HE 
CANNOT TAKE IT EVENLY. HaBIT HAS BECOME ALMOST SECOND NATURE WITH 

HIM. Such a cutter will be wise to continue taking the 

MEASURE AS HE IS IN THE HABIT OF DOING; BUT BEFORE 
DRAFTING TO ADD TO OR TO TAKE FROM IT THE AMOUNT 
WHICH EXPERIENCE TEACHES HIM IT IS TOO SHORT 

OR TOO LONG. 









THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


285 


PART IV. 


THE SCALE METHOD 

















28(> 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


IF THE SHOULDERS OF YOUR COATS AVERAGE TOO CROOKED, MAKE THE DISTANCE FROM B TO H 
* THE SAME AS FROM A TO G, OR A LITTLE MORE, INSTEAD OF | INCH LESS. If 

THEY AVERAGE TOO STRAIGHT DO THE REVERSE. 









THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


287 


THE “STANDARD” SCALE METHOD. 


accompanying scales are not intended for the use of the beginner in place ot the 
actual measures, but for use in the production of proportionate or model patterns, for 
which they will be found far superior to any other scales ever made. 


KEY TO “STANDARD” SCALE. 


' I E Scale is worked from the end marked with a 
E Half-scye depth. 

B Depth of scye. 

1 Front shoulder length. 

2 1 Depth of gorge. 

U2 Shoulder slope. 

M Width of top of back. 

P Width of back. 

G Front of scye. 

H Side of neck to front center. 

20 Side of neck from back center. 

C2 gives the center seam indentation at the waist and the center-seam seat spring for a 
three-seam sack. 

K and I may be used together to obtain the over-shoulder length instead of using U2 for 
the slope. 

O2 gives the back width for a sack below the scye. 






288 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


FROCKS. 


SHOULDER SLOPE BY SCALE U2. 


C ELECT the Scale on one end of which the breast size required is marked and proceed as 
follows; 

Diagram 130.—Square both ways from A. 

Place the end of the Scale at A as represented and mark at E and B of the Scale as at E 
and B on the draft. Square forward from E and B. 

Diagram 131.—Place the end of the Scale at A as represented and mark at M of the Scale 
as at M on the draft. 

Place the end of the Scale at B as represented and mark at P, G and H of the Scale as at 
P, G and H on the draft. Square up from these points. 

Diagram 132. — Place the end of the Scale at S as represented and mark at U2 of the 
Scale as at U2 on the draft. 

Place I of the Scale at G as represented and mark at the end of the Scale as at I on the 
draft. 

Sweep forward from I, pivoting at G, and square up from H. This establishes J. 

Place the end of the scale at J as represented, and mark at 20 of the Scale a& at 20 on 
the draft. 

Obtain point 9 in the usual way and draw a straight line from that point to 20. 

Place 21 of the Scale at 9 as represented and mark at the e-nd of the Scale as at 21 on 
the draft. 

J to N2 is the same as from A to M of Diagram 131, 

Draw a straight line from N2 to U2. 

G to F is I ^ inch. 

Finish as represented, as explained for Diagram 7 ^ 






THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


289 



DIAGRAMS 130, 131 AND 132. 






















































•290 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 


FROCKS. 


SHOULDER SLOPE BY SCALE K. 


INSTEAD of obtaining the slope of the shoulder by U2 of the Scale as just explained, it 
* may be established as follows : 

Diagram 133.—Obtain points E, B, M, P, G, H, I, 20 and 21 as explained for Diagrams 
130, 13 I and 132. 

Place K of the Scale at I and mark at the end of the Scale as at K on the draft. 

Finish as represented, as explained for Diagram 22. 


SE THE Scale as just explained for all frocks, whether undercoats or overcoats. 






the new standard coat system. 



diagram 


j 


/ / 


^ 











































































292 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM 


SACKS. 


r^OR all sacks, whether undercoats or overcoats, the Scale, besides being used as just 
explained for frocks, is also used as follows to obtain points L and C2. 

Diagram 134.—Place the end of the Scale at A as represented, and mark at L of the Scale 
as at L on the draft. 

Place the end of the Scale at B and mark at O2 of the Scale as at O2 on the draft. 

Place the end of the Scale at C and mark at C2 of the Scale as at C2 on the draft. 

Finish as represented, as explained for Diagram 55, or as for any other sack of which 
diagram and explanations are given in this book. 












293 


THE NEW STANDARD COAT SYSTEM. 



DIAGRAM 134. 



























































































tt 


i 


K 





I 


> '.5 ‘ 


i« 


J*- 


'■| ' 































K E V T-O ST'ANDAR.d" sSCALE 


The Scale is ivorKedfrom the end mar/Ced with cl ^ 

^ ffa/f-scj/e. depths S)Q M Width ^topojSacfC 


B Depth of .sc^e 
I Trontshou/der/fer^th/ 

a 


>2 yii/es the center 
seam indentation at 
the waist and the 
center-seanv seat 
spring j^or a three- 
sea/n sac/ 6 . 


P W^idth oj' bac/d 
Q Front of ffO/ye 



ppSAND'To ^ 

(SIOESIONS^ P„bU 5 ^ of 




W orks on Cutting cc. 

ia2-124Fifth Ave. YORK 


2^ I Depth ^ for^G 
Ua ShoutderSlope 



Kand I map be used 
toyether to obtain the 
over-shoulder tenffu 
instead ofusinpUs 
for the stope 
On pives the bach 
'widthforasacK beloh' 
the scp/Qr. 


H Side f necKfrom bacKcenter 
20 Side of itecKtyrant center 


24 breast 

OR 

61 CM 


>»" ’ -i/ ■ 


f I ^ 


If 


25 breast 

OR 

63 C M 


T7 

If 


26 breast 

OR 

66 C M 


H ' 






I 

A 


~r 

9 


STANDARD SCALE 

t^\JNa«J.MlTCHELL CO.N.Y. 


5 


15 




Ml 


OS 




U2 

L 





j 


~T 

9 


‘standard scale. 
^VFNO.«J.]VHTCHELL CO.NA: 


5 \L 2 l /^0 

L 


L 




K//E 


os ll?U 2 | 


27 breast 

OR 

68 C M 


H 


L 




“standard scale 
^^'MKO.d.MITCHELL CO.N.Y 


5 T~^ 

L 


L 


d 


K//E 


~T 

OS 




V 2 I 


T~T 

51 ZD 





I 

A 


~r 

9 


“standard scale 
t»‘\JNO.«J.MITCHELL CO. NY 


5 

A 


T 

d 


2i/SO 

1 


ii^E 


~r 

os 




021 


T~r 

51 ZD 



28 breast 

OR 

71 CM 


“7 

H 


T 

9 


STANDARD SCALE 

i»‘MNO.«J.MITCHELL co.n.y 


5 

A 


~1 

d 


1 


29 BREAST 

OR 

74 C M 


~7 

H 


KE 

AA 


~r 

OS 


7 


w U2I 


4 S 31 ^ 


STANDARD SCALE 
^MNOeJ.MITCHELL CO. NY 


6 

A 


d 


7 oi/S0 


21 


30 BREAST 

OB 

76 C M 


V 

H 


KE 


~T 

OS 


W U2 


T 

51 


SD 


31 breast 

OR 

79 C M 


■y 

H 


1 

A 


32 BREAST 

OR 

81 CM 


T 

H 


I 

A 


T 

9 


33 breast 

OR 

84 C M 


V 

H 


7 




34 BREAST 

OR 

86 C M 


V 

H 


± 




-dSJ] 


35 ®^east 

OR 

89 C M 


■y 

H 


J. 




“SIAN: 
'r''\JNO.fli 5 .A’'* 


3 ^ BREAST 

OR 

91 CM 

U la “ STAND. 




H 


I 

A 


u 


9 


STANDAR^ 

'rv'\JN 0 . 9 j.MITC" 



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